3.5 VQ Spark plug write-ups? Remove the intake???
3.5 VQ Spark plug write-ups? Remove the intake???
So I notice the FSM and someone else mentioned removing the intake manifold assemblies to change the plugs?
Is this really necessary or can you work your way around it? Anyone done a write-up? I've seen write-ups for the 3.0...
I can't search...sorry! Thanks in advance!
Jeremy
Is this really necessary or can you work your way around it? Anyone done a write-up? I've seen write-ups for the 3.0...
I can't search...sorry! Thanks in advance!
Jeremy
The rear of the intake manifold sits on top of two of the plugs. You might...might be able to get the rear driver side out with the right extensions and swivels, but removing the intake is necessary to get the passenger and middle plug out.
Thanks for the responses as always!
That's what I was afraid of...that's a downer...oh well...I may wait until 60k or 75k before doing it. I'm at 45k now.
SR20---I may go one step colder (lots of hot, highway driving), but yes, those are the ones!
JP
That's what I was afraid of...that's a downer...oh well...I may wait until 60k or 75k before doing it. I'm at 45k now.
SR20---I may go one step colder (lots of hot, highway driving), but yes, those are the ones!
JP
I wouldn't wait. Your plugs are ripe for the picking at about that mileage. Ignore the 100k mile crap you see on TV.
The plug install isn't that difficult and when you do it, don't separate the elbow from the plenum. You will find that it is easier than it loks once you've actually done it.
Also, there isn't really a need for you to go with the colder plugs unless you're going to spray a 100+ shot of Nitrous. I am trying out the cold plugs now (PLFR6A-11) and the car seems to feel a little more sluggish.
The reason I mentioned you get the correct oens is because I am hearing that the guys at the auto stores are trusting their WRONG databases and are trying to sell 2k1 plugs for the 2k2.
The plug install isn't that difficult and when you do it, don't separate the elbow from the plenum. You will find that it is easier than it loks once you've actually done it.
Also, there isn't really a need for you to go with the colder plugs unless you're going to spray a 100+ shot of Nitrous. I am trying out the cold plugs now (PLFR6A-11) and the car seems to feel a little more sluggish.
The reason I mentioned you get the correct oens is because I am hearing that the guys at the auto stores are trusting their WRONG databases and are trying to sell 2k1 plugs for the 2k2.
AH, I see. I will prolly get them from DAVEB. Cool, I'll stick with the standards then...
Will I need to replace the intake manifold gasket while I'm in there? ANy other "gotcha's"?
Thanks for the help.
Jeremy
Will I need to replace the intake manifold gasket while I'm in there? ANy other "gotcha's"?
Thanks for the help.
Jeremy
Not if you don't bend or crease it. DAVEB can get you great prices on Nissan specific parts but you may be able to do a little better on the plugs from a shop that sells NGK. Expect to pay between $10-$20 per plug. And if it's a hassle to find them then order them from DAVE.
I have heard some stories that 350Zs in Cali are having pinging problems because of their bad 91 octane gas and hot/fry climate. I would recommend going with the colder plugs if you're having the same problems as them.
I have heard some stories that 350Zs in Cali are having pinging problems because of their bad 91 octane gas and hot/fry climate. I would recommend going with the colder plugs if you're having the same problems as them.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I wouldn't wait. Your plugs are ripe for the picking at about that mileage. Ignore the 100k mile crap you see on TV.
The plug install isn't that difficult and when you do it, don't separate the elbow from the plenum. You will find that it is easier than it loks once you've actually done it.
Also, there isn't really a need for you to go with the colder plugs unless you're going to spray a 100+ shot of Nitrous. I am trying out the cold plugs now (PLFR6A-11) and the car seems to feel a little more sluggish.
The reason I mentioned you get the correct oens is because I am hearing that the guys at the auto stores are trusting their WRONG databases and are trying to sell 2k1 plugs for the 2k2.
The plug install isn't that difficult and when you do it, don't separate the elbow from the plenum. You will find that it is easier than it loks once you've actually done it.
Also, there isn't really a need for you to go with the colder plugs unless you're going to spray a 100+ shot of Nitrous. I am trying out the cold plugs now (PLFR6A-11) and the car seems to feel a little more sluggish.
The reason I mentioned you get the correct oens is because I am hearing that the guys at the auto stores are trusting their WRONG databases and are trying to sell 2k1 plugs for the 2k2.
Do you recommend removing the entire assembly with or without the throttle body attached?
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I wouldn't wait. Your plugs are ripe for the picking at about that mileage. Ignore the 100k mile crap you see on TV.
The plug install isn't that difficult and when you do it, don't separate the elbow from the plenum. You will find that it is easier than it loks once you've actually done it.
Also, there isn't really a need for you to go with the colder plugs unless you're going to spray a 100+ shot of Nitrous. I am trying out the cold plugs now (PLFR6A-11) and the car seems to feel a little more sluggish.
The reason I mentioned you get the correct oens is because I am hearing that the guys at the auto stores are trusting their WRONG databases and are trying to sell 2k1 plugs for the 2k2.
The plug install isn't that difficult and when you do it, don't separate the elbow from the plenum. You will find that it is easier than it loks once you've actually done it.
Also, there isn't really a need for you to go with the colder plugs unless you're going to spray a 100+ shot of Nitrous. I am trying out the cold plugs now (PLFR6A-11) and the car seems to feel a little more sluggish.
The reason I mentioned you get the correct oens is because I am hearing that the guys at the auto stores are trusting their WRONG databases and are trying to sell 2k1 plugs for the 2k2.
You have to remove that elbow piece between the intake manifold and the throttle body. i couldn't see how you could get to those back plugs any other way . I just did my plugs last Friday, so i can attest to that. Even if you left the elbow piece attatched to the intake manifold and you losen the manifold bolts to have some play to move the manifold around. That middle back plug would still be unreachable. Its best to take off the elbow piece, it makes the job a heck of alot easier. Its only 4 bolts and 2 bolts holding the elbow to a bracket.
Originally Posted by Rafe
You have to remove that elbow piece between the intake manifold and the throttle body. i couldn't see how you could get to those back plugs any other way . I just did my plugs last Friday, so i can attest to that. Even if you left the elbow piece attatched to the intake manifold and you losen the manifold bolts to have some play to move the manifold around. That middle back plug would still be unreachable. Its best to take off the elbow piece, it makes the job a heck of alot easier. Its only 4 bolts and 2 bolts holding the elbow to a bracket.
Do you have any pics of the uninstall/reinstall? I have some from the member who messed up his hands, however there are no pics of the complete dissasemble. There also isn't any clear documentation as to what the easiest way to do this would be:
1)Remove intake then remove elbow or remove intake and elbow together.
2)Leave throttle body attached/remove throttle body with elbow.
3)Gaskets replaced?
4)Tools involved
5)Weight of intake (more than one person needed to remove).
Could you or SR2 assist in completing the write up?
Current 2002 - 2003 Write up
I did more of a describtion than a write up on how to replace the sparkplugs for the 3.5 VQ. That might have been my thread.
1.,2. Yes remove the elbow attatched w/the throttle body. I removed the the throttle body and the elbow bracket bolts . I removed my Injen intake pipe to get to the brackets, if you have a stock setup , i recomend the same procedure.
You don't have to disconect any wires going to the throttle body , just lay the elbow w/throttle body off to the side.
3.No gaskets have to be replaced, unless you brake it. Our cars use metal gaskets , so just becareful that you don't lose it.
4.12mm socket ,sparkplug socket, spark plug gapper, engine light(optional) my garage is kind of dark.
, and plenty of time, don't rush it... your biggest headache will be getting to the brackets and removing the bolts off the elbow.
5.The intake elbow is very lite... just don't drop it , or crack it. The intake manifold is not heavy at all. Oh, to get to the final spak plug you will have to loosen the intake manifold bolts. DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT ALL THE WAY. Just loosen so you can move the manifold up and down on the bolts. The bolts for the intake manifold are very long . Just loosen the bolts just enough so you can stick a screw driver or something between the block and the manifold to keep the manifold up , this will give you plenty of clearance to access the last spark plug bolt.
Just take your time, you can do it....you don't need any speacial tools or anything. Even though i used my air rachet to get out those bolts!
Which cut my time by half, by hand you will be there for a while....
1.,2. Yes remove the elbow attatched w/the throttle body. I removed the the throttle body and the elbow bracket bolts . I removed my Injen intake pipe to get to the brackets, if you have a stock setup , i recomend the same procedure.
You don't have to disconect any wires going to the throttle body , just lay the elbow w/throttle body off to the side.
3.No gaskets have to be replaced, unless you brake it. Our cars use metal gaskets , so just becareful that you don't lose it.
4.12mm socket ,sparkplug socket, spark plug gapper, engine light(optional) my garage is kind of dark.
, and plenty of time, don't rush it... your biggest headache will be getting to the brackets and removing the bolts off the elbow. 5.The intake elbow is very lite... just don't drop it , or crack it. The intake manifold is not heavy at all. Oh, to get to the final spak plug you will have to loosen the intake manifold bolts. DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT ALL THE WAY. Just loosen so you can move the manifold up and down on the bolts. The bolts for the intake manifold are very long . Just loosen the bolts just enough so you can stick a screw driver or something between the block and the manifold to keep the manifold up , this will give you plenty of clearance to access the last spark plug bolt.
Just take your time, you can do it....you don't need any speacial tools or anything. Even though i used my air rachet to get out those bolts!
Which cut my time by half, by hand you will be there for a while....
Originally Posted by saxdogg
Now I see why they're 100,000 mile plugs... 

Yeah.....the job seems more challenging than it looks, but if your patient you can do it... And now that you have some sort of knowledge on the know how, it really should be to tuff to tackle. Me i had no guide, i had asked questions before and got no responses back because alot of org members just let the dealership do it.
But i am sure many will try to attempt it after reading this thread.
Originally Posted by Rafe
I did more of a describtion than a write up on how to replace the sparkplugs for the 3.5 VQ. That might have been my thread.
1.,2. Yes remove the elbow attatched w/the throttle body. I removed the the throttle body and the elbow bracket bolts . I removed my Injen intake pipe to get to the brackets, if you have a stock setup , i recomend the same procedure.
You don't have to disconect any wires going to the throttle body , just lay the elbow w/throttle body off to the side.
3.No gaskets have to be replaced, unless you brake it. Our cars use metal gaskets , so just becareful that you don't lose it.
4.12mm socket ,sparkplug socket, spark plug gapper, engine light(optional) my garage is kind of dark.
, and plenty of time, don't rush it... your biggest headache will be getting to the brackets and removing the bolts off the elbow.
5.The intake elbow is very lite... just don't drop it , or crack it. The intake manifold is not heavy at all. Oh, to get to the final spak plug you will have to loosen the intake manifold bolts. DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT ALL THE WAY. Just loosen so you can move the manifold up and down on the bolts. The bolts for the intake manifold are very long . Just loosen the bolts just enough so you can stick a screw driver or something between the block and the manifold to keep the manifold up , this will give you plenty of clearance to access the last spark plug bolt.
Just take your time, you can do it....you don't need any speacial tools or anything. Even though i used my air rachet to get out those bolts!
Which cut my time by half, by hand you will be there for a while....
1.,2. Yes remove the elbow attatched w/the throttle body. I removed the the throttle body and the elbow bracket bolts . I removed my Injen intake pipe to get to the brackets, if you have a stock setup , i recomend the same procedure.
You don't have to disconect any wires going to the throttle body , just lay the elbow w/throttle body off to the side.
3.No gaskets have to be replaced, unless you brake it. Our cars use metal gaskets , so just becareful that you don't lose it.
4.12mm socket ,sparkplug socket, spark plug gapper, engine light(optional) my garage is kind of dark.
, and plenty of time, don't rush it... your biggest headache will be getting to the brackets and removing the bolts off the elbow. 5.The intake elbow is very lite... just don't drop it , or crack it. The intake manifold is not heavy at all. Oh, to get to the final spak plug you will have to loosen the intake manifold bolts. DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT ALL THE WAY. Just loosen so you can move the manifold up and down on the bolts. The bolts for the intake manifold are very long . Just loosen the bolts just enough so you can stick a screw driver or something between the block and the manifold to keep the manifold up , this will give you plenty of clearance to access the last spark plug bolt.
Just take your time, you can do it....you don't need any speacial tools or anything. Even though i used my air rachet to get out those bolts!
Which cut my time by half, by hand you will be there for a while....
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
So you didn't take the intake manifold off at all, just used some shims (screwdrivers in this case) to raise it up?
Basiacallly ,i just stuck the handle of the screwdriver to prop it up.
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