Time for more detailing articles - Tire and Wheels first
It has been a while since I poasted more detailing tips. Since I have started preparation on my show car, I thought it would be time to do some.
TIRES and WHEELS
Cleaned and dressed tires and wheels make a clean car look well maintained, highly detailed, and sharp. Studies show that tires are among the first things people look at after a detail job. There is an art to cleaning tires and wheels. Follow these instructions for the "can't miss" detailing job.
There's more to cleaning tires and wheels then one might think. Exposure to ultra?violet (UV) light causes exterior rubber to fade, crack and eventually lose its mechanical properties. This process is called photo?degradation. Road pollution and brake dust present another danger to tires and wheels. Tires should be cleaned occasionally to prevent photo?degradation and to remove brake dust, road oils, grime and other contaminants, which will cause decay or a browning effect on the tire surface.
Modern tire sidewalls have a coating that help protect them from normal wear and tear. Problems arise when caustic wheel cleaners and other harsh chemicals remove this protective coating. Modern wheels on the other hand also have problems. Manufactures now apply protective coatings to wheels. This protective coating provides some measure of protection but is susceptible to abrasion, acids, and the metal residue (brake dust) created by modern high?performance brake pads. Brake dust etching, brush scratches, chemical erosion from road salts and corrosive cleaners are common culprits of wheel destruction. Since ignorance of these hazards can cause irreparable damage, learning a few simple facts may eliminate some very expensive mistakes.
Therefore, the first step to reclaiming the original tire luster is a proper cleaning with an appropriate rubber cleaner. Use a cleaner that is biodegradable, phosphate?free, non?abrasive and nonflammable. Never use wheel cleaners containing strong acids, bleach, alcohol, or solvents. You cannot remove wheel grime with a spray?on and hose?off product and not risk serious damage to anodized, clearcoated, chrome?plated, or aluminum wheels.
Most tire cleaners contains chemicals that whitens whitewalls and white letting. This type of cleaner tends to turn black walls an ugly gray or gray cast to the black part of the tire. The bleach used in a lot of products can also damage the finish on the wheels. The rougher the cleaning application, the more chance you take damaging the tire or wheel. Powdered cleaners also contain a bleaching agent. Non?bleach cleaners are preferred and are compatible with alloy rims. It is much better overall to clean tires and wheels with a product which states "no lye" or bleach and clean them 2 times than clean once with a harsh damaging cleaner.
There are wheel and tire cleaners that guarantee and preserve wheel surfaces and surrounding rubber. These types of cleaners may be sprayed directly onto the wheel and agitated with a soft scrub brush to insure even distribution and thorough cleaning. Wheels with narrow slots and spokes can similarly be cleaned by using a super?soft, specialty brush. Avoid brushes with very stiff brushes. They can scratch rubber as well as wheels. Use paint brushes to reach those areas around lug nuts and valve stems. Use them in the crevices and slots on special wheels. Toothbrushes work well on wire wheels and on those parts of the wheels, which attract dirt build?up.
Always clean one wheel at a time. This prevents the cleaner from drying on the wheel. Never clean a wheel when it is warm or hot from driving. High temperatures increase the activity of chemicals and can cause damage to the wheels, warp brake rotors or prevent the cleaners from working normally. Streaking and staining can result if some cleaners are applied to hot wheels.
The second step to restoring natural luster on the rubber tire is the application of a high?quality rubber dressing containing UV stabilizers, which supplement the UV protective action of the carbon black. Choose a dressing that's not too sticky or apt to sling off on the car. Always clean tire before each application of dressing. Unfortunately, some folks never clean the tires. The consequence? Brown blackwalls or yellow whitewalls.
All rubber should have a rich, dark sheen and be smooth to the touch. Properly maintained, it will enhance the overall appearance of the automobile. With wheels, even with regular attention, highly polished wheels will require a specialized product to restore lost luster. Choose a polish/wax designed for a particular finish. Never use a chrome polish on aluminum or an aluminum polish on clearcoated wheels. Damage will occur. Lacquer clearcoats should be cleaned with the same products designed for automotive paints.
Proper tire and wheel cleaning only requires some common sense, a little effort, and an educated choice of products. Protect and care for your tires and wheels; they are vulnerable and expensive part of your automobile.
Happy Detailing
copyright 2001 Paul Gasparola & Angela Brown
Members Professional Detailers Association - International Car Wash Association
Regards
TIRES and WHEELS
Cleaned and dressed tires and wheels make a clean car look well maintained, highly detailed, and sharp. Studies show that tires are among the first things people look at after a detail job. There is an art to cleaning tires and wheels. Follow these instructions for the "can't miss" detailing job.
There's more to cleaning tires and wheels then one might think. Exposure to ultra?violet (UV) light causes exterior rubber to fade, crack and eventually lose its mechanical properties. This process is called photo?degradation. Road pollution and brake dust present another danger to tires and wheels. Tires should be cleaned occasionally to prevent photo?degradation and to remove brake dust, road oils, grime and other contaminants, which will cause decay or a browning effect on the tire surface.
Modern tire sidewalls have a coating that help protect them from normal wear and tear. Problems arise when caustic wheel cleaners and other harsh chemicals remove this protective coating. Modern wheels on the other hand also have problems. Manufactures now apply protective coatings to wheels. This protective coating provides some measure of protection but is susceptible to abrasion, acids, and the metal residue (brake dust) created by modern high?performance brake pads. Brake dust etching, brush scratches, chemical erosion from road salts and corrosive cleaners are common culprits of wheel destruction. Since ignorance of these hazards can cause irreparable damage, learning a few simple facts may eliminate some very expensive mistakes.
Therefore, the first step to reclaiming the original tire luster is a proper cleaning with an appropriate rubber cleaner. Use a cleaner that is biodegradable, phosphate?free, non?abrasive and nonflammable. Never use wheel cleaners containing strong acids, bleach, alcohol, or solvents. You cannot remove wheel grime with a spray?on and hose?off product and not risk serious damage to anodized, clearcoated, chrome?plated, or aluminum wheels.
Most tire cleaners contains chemicals that whitens whitewalls and white letting. This type of cleaner tends to turn black walls an ugly gray or gray cast to the black part of the tire. The bleach used in a lot of products can also damage the finish on the wheels. The rougher the cleaning application, the more chance you take damaging the tire or wheel. Powdered cleaners also contain a bleaching agent. Non?bleach cleaners are preferred and are compatible with alloy rims. It is much better overall to clean tires and wheels with a product which states "no lye" or bleach and clean them 2 times than clean once with a harsh damaging cleaner.
There are wheel and tire cleaners that guarantee and preserve wheel surfaces and surrounding rubber. These types of cleaners may be sprayed directly onto the wheel and agitated with a soft scrub brush to insure even distribution and thorough cleaning. Wheels with narrow slots and spokes can similarly be cleaned by using a super?soft, specialty brush. Avoid brushes with very stiff brushes. They can scratch rubber as well as wheels. Use paint brushes to reach those areas around lug nuts and valve stems. Use them in the crevices and slots on special wheels. Toothbrushes work well on wire wheels and on those parts of the wheels, which attract dirt build?up.
Always clean one wheel at a time. This prevents the cleaner from drying on the wheel. Never clean a wheel when it is warm or hot from driving. High temperatures increase the activity of chemicals and can cause damage to the wheels, warp brake rotors or prevent the cleaners from working normally. Streaking and staining can result if some cleaners are applied to hot wheels.
The second step to restoring natural luster on the rubber tire is the application of a high?quality rubber dressing containing UV stabilizers, which supplement the UV protective action of the carbon black. Choose a dressing that's not too sticky or apt to sling off on the car. Always clean tire before each application of dressing. Unfortunately, some folks never clean the tires. The consequence? Brown blackwalls or yellow whitewalls.
All rubber should have a rich, dark sheen and be smooth to the touch. Properly maintained, it will enhance the overall appearance of the automobile. With wheels, even with regular attention, highly polished wheels will require a specialized product to restore lost luster. Choose a polish/wax designed for a particular finish. Never use a chrome polish on aluminum or an aluminum polish on clearcoated wheels. Damage will occur. Lacquer clearcoats should be cleaned with the same products designed for automotive paints.
Proper tire and wheel cleaning only requires some common sense, a little effort, and an educated choice of products. Protect and care for your tires and wheels; they are vulnerable and expensive part of your automobile.
Happy Detailing
copyright 2001 Paul Gasparola & Angela Brown
Members Professional Detailers Association - International Car Wash Association
Regards
Originally posted by JDwyer2821
I looked around and I think that your clutch kits are way over priced. Around $500 for a centerforce is terrible!
I looked around and I think that your clutch kits are way over priced. Around $500 for a centerforce is terrible!
BTW Avolon thanks for the great info, I appreciate it.
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Originally posted by JDwyer2821
I looked around and I think that your clutch kits are way over priced. Around $500 for a centerforce is terrible!
I looked around and I think that your clutch kits are way over priced. Around $500 for a centerforce is terrible!
paul and angela, keep the advice coming. its greatly appreciated. great job with the max on the .org homepage BTW.
Thanks guys
I will have more articles coming soon. This is the start of the busy season aready at the shops so I have even less time to write. I will have more articles.
I also add every article I or Angela does to the Detail Zone of our web site.
Regards
I also add every article I or Angela does to the Detail Zone of our web site.
Regards
Originally posted by Adam01GXE
ease up man...this guy is taking time out of his life to give free, professional pointers on how to keep our cars as beautiful as possible. never turn down free advice. especially when it comes from someone who makes their living in the subject area. whatever you believe, they know more than you.
paul and angela, keep the advice coming. its greatly appreciated. great job with the max on the .org homepage BTW.
ease up man...this guy is taking time out of his life to give free, professional pointers on how to keep our cars as beautiful as possible. never turn down free advice. especially when it comes from someone who makes their living in the subject area. whatever you believe, they know more than you.
paul and angela, keep the advice coming. its greatly appreciated. great job with the max on the .org homepage BTW.
Originally posted by emax95
Give him a break dude! He only posts "list" price, try calling/emailing Avolan Racing for your actual price. Like he always sais {Quote}"we will meet or beat any price"
BTW Avolon thanks for the great info, I appreciate it.
Give him a break dude! He only posts "list" price, try calling/emailing Avolan Racing for your actual price. Like he always sais {Quote}"we will meet or beat any price"
BTW Avolon thanks for the great info, I appreciate it.
Some people are real Aholes.
Originally posted by JDwyer2821
Actually I called for three days and left a message and got this quote over the phone yesterday. Damm gang up on me because I thought that avalon gave us maxima owners a deal.
Some people are real Aholes.
Actually I called for three days and left a message and got this quote over the phone yesterday. Damm gang up on me because I thought that avalon gave us maxima owners a deal.
Some people are real Aholes.
not a flame.. but .. are you dyslexic? i am curious.. maybe you should have that looked at.. Avalon Racing has his name 3 times at the least in this thread and you spelled the name wrong on all occasions..
Originally posted by emax95
Give him a break dude! He only posts "list" price, try calling/emailing Avolan Racing for your actual price. Like he always sais {Quote}"we will meet or beat any price"
BTW Avolon thanks for the great info, I appreciate it.
Give him a break dude! He only posts "list" price, try calling/emailing Avolan Racing for your actual price. Like he always sais {Quote}"we will meet or beat any price"
BTW Avolon thanks for the great info, I appreciate it.
Originally posted by SprintMax
not a flame.. but .. are you dyslexic? i am curious.. maybe you should have that looked at.. Avalon Racing has his name 3 times at the least in this thread and you spelled the name wrong on all occasions..
not a flame.. but .. are you dyslexic? i am curious.. maybe you should have that looked at.. Avalon Racing has his name 3 times at the least in this thread and you spelled the name wrong on all occasions..
look at my reply again and look who i quoted.. i wasn't talking about you
Originally posted by JDwyer2821
Sorry I am a little grumpy because my max is just sitting out in the driveway and I cant drive it because the clutch is shot. I really suck at spelling so my bad. I put my CAI in today and want to try it out so bad!! Have a good night sorry again
Sorry I am a little grumpy because my max is just sitting out in the driveway and I cant drive it because the clutch is shot. I really suck at spelling so my bad. I put my CAI in today and want to try it out so bad!! Have a good night sorry again
Originally posted by SprintMax
not a flame.. but .. are you dyslexic? i am curious.. maybe you should have that looked at.. Avalon Racing has his name 3 times at the least in this thread and you spelled the name wrong on all occasions..
not a flame.. but .. are you dyslexic? i am curious.. maybe you should have that looked at.. Avalon Racing has his name 3 times at the least in this thread and you spelled the name wrong on all occasions..
I can't spell for $hit,you should no that by now. I am getting better though. Ready Avolan, dought! Thats it Avaaallooon{Avalon}. BTW if I was dislexic{sP?} I would have probably spelt it nalovA hehe. won teg fo ym esac! ahahuhuhum!
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