Nitrous Express Maximizer Impressions
Nitrous Express Maximizer Impressions

Everything required was included in the package except fuses for the solenoid driver (40 amps) and Ignition power to Controller (10 amps). All wiring is more than long enough to reach ECU, ignition etc. Connectors are of extremely high quality (look like aircraft stuff) and have rubber boots to protect from dust etc. The one for the solenoid driver, (pic) you have to assemble yourself and gives you a good look at the quality of the connectors.
The cables and connectors were also included to connect directly to the serial port of a laptop and even better directly to a PDA. The software for the PC and PDA are virtually identical and updates and complete programs are available online at http://www.fjoracing.com for anyone who want to see what the software is capable of.
Documentation is detailed and complete, no problems whatsoever during the install (the complete manual and instructions are available on line at http://www.fjoracing.com).
The Maximizer also has inputs and outputs for a Transmission Brake, Ignition Retard and a Wideband/Narrowband which I did get to work with the wideband I have but only in narrowband configuration.
The only inputs really required are Tachometer and TPS which I connected right at the ECU. Its also nice to eliminate the WOT switch with the TPS hookup. Even though there appear to be tons of connectors and wires these are the only 2 that I am using other than the power connections, so hookup is very simple compared to even the S-AFC.
The Maximizer eliminates the requirement for relays with the Solenoid Driver so wiring is a breeze and this is a pic of what I removed from the 2 stage setup.

The best part is the software, very simple and easy to use but very powerful. It recognizes each gear in an auto and manual trans and each gear has its own configuration profile for RPM trigger, Delay Time, Start % of Nitrous, End % of Nitrous as well as the Ramp Time. You can save as many different configurations as you want, I put in 200 HP jets and have configurations for 200, 150, 100, 75 and 50 as well as a duplicate set with longer delays and ramp times. Would be great for a street tire setup. The best part is that you can run a much larger shot than you would with a single or dual stage setup because the engine is capable of a much higher shot in the upper RPM range. Ie a 100 shot at 3000 rpm puts twice as much pressure and strain on the engine as the same shot at 6000 rpm so when you ramp up the shot you can run much higher HP.
The monitoring window shows RPM, A/F, TPS voltage, Gear, Nitrous % as well as the Arming Switch position, Trans Brake and Ignition Retard. Logging is turned on and off with a click and automatically saved in a time stamped file for easy identification for playback.
So far I haven’t had a chance to really get it setup properly but I with my new slicks I hope to get some track time in and really put it to the test.
Oh ya the price, retail is $819. http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/Maximizer.htm
That looks very impressive. Finally nitrous is getting easy to tune. I love that you get a computer to help you instead of trying to trick the cars computer or force it. This just would make me sit a lot more relaxed about having nitrous on my car. I have to ask it i am sorry, how much was it.
Hey Jim,
Was that $819cdn or us? I ordered the maximizer from diabloperformance.com in Alberta for $781.33cdn (p# 15963). I sure hope it's the same thing.
I want to go turbo in 2006 but in the meantime this expensive little sucker looks to be just the thing for turbo-like spool up.
btw, what did you mean by "the one for the solenoid driver, (pic) you have to assemble yourself" - we need to make a housing of some sort for the driver?
Thanks,
Bill.
Was that $819cdn or us? I ordered the maximizer from diabloperformance.com in Alberta for $781.33cdn (p# 15963). I sure hope it's the same thing.
I want to go turbo in 2006 but in the meantime this expensive little sucker looks to be just the thing for turbo-like spool up.
btw, what did you mean by "the one for the solenoid driver, (pic) you have to assemble yourself" - we need to make a housing of some sort for the driver?
Thanks,
Bill.
Thats US$ retail which no one ever pays. Yes 15963 is the one. I paid a little less than you but I got mine direct from NX as part of a sponsorship deal.
Oh here is the pic. No real work required you just have to assemble the plug for the solenoid driver.
Oh here is the pic. No real work required you just have to assemble the plug for the solenoid driver.
this is about the coolest thing ive read about on hear in a long time
ive noticed that my car seems to pull alot hard at 3k than at 5k on a 75shot and this could be the answer ive been looking for plus im having traction issues in second even with my BFG DR's so i could run a 50hp shot in second and then go to 75hp in 3rd
ive noticed that my car seems to pull alot hard at 3k than at 5k on a 75shot and this could be the answer ive been looking for plus im having traction issues in second even with my BFG DR's so i could run a 50hp shot in second and then go to 75hp in 3rd
Jim,
Since this takes tach and TPS input (and this seems to all add up) you don't need a window switch or the relay to amplify the low current signal to the solenoids? I guess it would have to, because that's really all this does: tell the solenoids when to open. But it isn't just a fully open/closed solenoid, it actually graduates the flow based on the inputs (gear, rpm, and throttle position). Is this right?
Hmmm...I guess you'll have to go back and completely reset your AFC for the different Air/Fuel Ratios you'll get using the Maximizer.
Since this takes tach and TPS input (and this seems to all add up) you don't need a window switch or the relay to amplify the low current signal to the solenoids? I guess it would have to, because that's really all this does: tell the solenoids when to open. But it isn't just a fully open/closed solenoid, it actually graduates the flow based on the inputs (gear, rpm, and throttle position). Is this right?
Hmmm...I guess you'll have to go back and completely reset your AFC for the different Air/Fuel Ratios you'll get using the Maximizer.
Originally Posted by elchino
Jim,
Since this takes tach and TPS input (and this seems to all add up) you don't need a window switch or the relay to amplify the low current signal to the solenoids? I guess it would have to, because that's really all this does: tell the solenoids when to open. But it isn't just a fully open/closed solenoid, it actually graduates the flow based on the inputs (gear, rpm, and throttle position). Is this right?
Hmmm...I guess you'll have to go back and completely reset your AFC for the different Air/Fuel Ratios you'll get using the Maximizer.
Since this takes tach and TPS input (and this seems to all add up) you don't need a window switch or the relay to amplify the low current signal to the solenoids? I guess it would have to, because that's really all this does: tell the solenoids when to open. But it isn't just a fully open/closed solenoid, it actually graduates the flow based on the inputs (gear, rpm, and throttle position). Is this right?
Hmmm...I guess you'll have to go back and completely reset your AFC for the different Air/Fuel Ratios you'll get using the Maximizer.
Yes all it really does it tell the solenoids when to open and close but its somewhat more complicated than that when you consider the ramping, ability to ramp up or down, windowing etc. The nitrous is actually controlled by pulsing the solenoids at a 14 hz rate.
The Maximizer does a great job of controlling the a/f with just one setting of the S-AFC no adjustments were necessary regardless of shot output from 10 to 100% with a 200 shot setup.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
James92SE
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
142
Jan 2, 2024 09:23 AM
Dasmith
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
4
Sep 23, 2015 08:28 PM
Serotta33
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
Sep 17, 2015 12:14 PM




