When I try to get my passenger window to go auto-up it goes to the top, then bounces down a couple inches. There doesn't appear to be anything in the track. I'm guessing theres a switch of some type regulating it so that it doesn't trap an arm or something else in it, could this maybe be the problem? Has anyone else had this problem.

Oh BTW I'm at 36,070 miles, and the dealer said that because it might be a adjustment, that wouldn't have qualified for the warranty, because they only do adjustments for 12mo/12K mi.

Also, the guy asked when I called if I was the original owner. When I said no, he all of a sudden had no time to discuss the issue with me, but was happy to quote me $140 estimate, sight unseen.

 

There's a sensor that causes the window to retract. You can fix this yourself. Remove the door panel, and in the middle of the door is a small black button/switch. Put your window all the way up (manually hold the up switch) and press the black button. This will reset it to close in that position.

 

jfriar52 is correct..
I had the same issue with mine and found this on the org .I don't remember who posted it I should have made note. But thanks to whoever it is..

the drivers door window one-touch up function for the window was not working properly. The window would go up to the top
and then retreat about 5 inches back down again. This problem is due to the limit switch needing to be reset which at first
I thought would be a considerable job (to take off the door panel etc.) but ended up being literally a 2 minute job as the
door panel can remain in place. My dealer wanted $85 CDN for the switch reset which I knew was a rip off before I found the

Step 1: Pry the plastic cap up off the bottom centre of the door pull handle and remove the single philips screw.

Step 2: Remove the whole switch panel (in which the door pull handle sits) by prying it up from the back end either with a
flat edged screwdriver or table knife (under cloth) or by hand which is what I did. It is just clipped in so should come out
relatively easily sliding it up at the back and then pulling it back.

You can now see the inside of the door from where the switch finishing plate sat. You can leave the wiring all attached and
simply hang the switch and handle plastic assembly to one side so you can see the inside of the door.

Look inside towards the front bottom of the door behind the plastic vapour barrier you will see a small black switch. It
almost looks like a black pan screw head. This is the reset switch but there is a sequence to now doing the actual reset
procedure. The switch doesn't really feel like one when you press it through the plastic liner which incidentally you don't
need to cut (at least I didn't have to). It is a switch that is only on when you are pressing it otherwise when released
it is off.

STEP 3: Make sure the window is closed (up) completely. Turn the ignition on so the windows are receiving power.

a) Press the reset switch (and keep it pressed in) and open (down) the window completely (manually -NOT with AUTO ONE
TOUCH DOWN FUNCTION).
b) Release the reset switch. Then close the window completely (manually only - NOT AUTO UP).
c) The limit switch is now reset. Easy!!!

This procedure worked for me straight away as I hope it will for you should you have this annoying problem.
The Nissan manual does caution you not to use the one touch UP-DOWN function during this procedure so be warned.

 

Awesome. I'll try this tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

Same problem for me, thanks for the info. Just in time for the winter! I really just never felt the urge to fix it. I'm hopin this proc should be the same for 2K's.

 

Hey thanks for figuring that out everybody. At first I was really annoyed by this, but then I just started rolling up my window without using the ONE TOUCH. I guessed I'm lazy enough to not fix it and stupid enough to just hold the latch up.

 

I have had this problem on both front windows on my 2K2. Both times they reset the switch and each time the problem came back. The first window the problem came back the next day and the second window the problem resurfaced after about 6 months. The real fix to both my problems were they ended up replacing the window motors in both doors. Resetting the limit switch will not always fix this problem. The dealer said that they have replaced window motors in many 5th gens. Did you purchase an extended warranty when you bought the car? I believe the extended warranty might cover a replacement motor. Good luck.

 

Worked like a champ. Let's hope it stays fixed.

 

Which way workd for u Pedals? I took off the switch panel but couldn't find any black button. did u have to stick ur hand far down there? That plastic is really opague. Taking off the door is it 2 parts? There seems to be only 1 screw by the A-Pillar. Is it just snapped out and in after?

 

I have a problem that my Passanger window will only go up unless I lock the windows. I can not lower the window from the driver switch but rather from the passanger switch. (Yet it still autos up, unless locked)

 

I used wavedogs description.

The switch is about 3-4" lower than the opening, and about 1-2" toward the leading edge of the door from the leading edge of the opening. There wasn't a need to cut the vapor barrier.

 

Found it but i had to cut a little the opening already there so i can see it plain site. It was easy to identify and it works!

 

Hate to resurrect an old thread, but I was fixing to go buy a factory Nissan window to solve this problem. I have the biggest smile on my face right now...

 

My passenger side window rolls up extremely slow...

 

My 2003 driver window is doing the same thing as the original poster. I tried the reset thing but it didn't work. I assume that means it is time for a new motor. Has anyone had any luck buying the regulators and/or motors off of eBay? If so, could you recommend a seller?

Thanks

 

so my car isnt the only one doing this. thank god. lol mine doesnt do this all the time but once in a whiile it do it especially in the summer cus u put the window down more often. anyway looks very easy to do.

 

Thank you, thank you. That was an unbelievably easy repair. You have to love these forums.....

 

I too had this problem. For a couple months my window would not go up and stay up when the 'auto-up' feature of the switch was used. I just dealt with it by trying to ignore the problem and only use the manual up. Well now my window doesn't work at all. Its stuck in the up position (thank goodness!) but nothing at all happens when I push the switch to go down. All my other windows work fine from the drivers side switch its just the front driver window. I hear nothing in the motor and I ordered a switch and tried replacing mine but it still no worky... the new switch did the same as mine. Does this mean I have a motor problem. I'm new at this and definitly not a mechanic but I'm pretty good at tearing into stuff and like to think I'm pretty handy. Can anyone help me diagnose what's going on?

Thanks!

 

My 2002 GLE drivers side window developed this problem shortly after the battery went bad. The dealer says the auto-up function senses the current going through the motor and will reverse direction if it exceeds the limit. Under low voltage conditions the window adjustment gets messed up per the service rep. I don't have anyway of knowing if this is true or not. I had the car in for the 100K service and they fixed it for $65 and it's been fine for almost a year now.

Can you hear the motor if you operate the switch? On my car I can hear all of the motors make a small squeal when pulling up on the switch when the window is already rolled up. If you can get the door panel off it should be easy to put a voltmeter on the connector to the motor and at least confirm that voltage is being applied. I would guess you have a bad motor or a blown fuse. Getting the door panel off would be the toughest part of the repair IMO.

The motor can be replaced independently from the window regulator assembly but sells for around $250 and there's a strong possibility a visit to the dealer would be needed to perform the calibration (if there really is such a thing).

To answer your question: it should be an easy repair with no special tools after getting the door panel off.

 

Yeah, I don't hear a thing when I hit the switch on the front driver door. All my other windows work fine so doubt it is a fuse. I did have a new symptom yesterday though as I tapped the down button for the heck of it (i hasn't worked at all for weeks) and my window went down like 4 inches and is now stuck in that position. I jiggled the wires (I have my inside pannel off) and it moved a little again. Maybe a short? Don't know. I did order a motor and regulator off ebay but don't know if I want to go through the work of puttin it in if that's not the problem. I did use my test light and I am getting power before the connection on the motor. Maybe not enough power though... like I said it was just a test light.

 

Just plug the regulator into the harness without actually installing it. If it is the motor/regulator it will be obvious. Some have mentioned a limit switch inside the door that gets goofed up. Maybe that is part of the problem but I think the motor is the best bet.