Well, since the link in the FAQ is down, and every other post I have read says go to z31.com, well, I can't find any info.

I tried removing the seats, but the nuts are soooo rusted on there, even with days worth of PB Blaster, still no results.

So, instead of posting a link, how does one check the codes on an 87?


Joe

 

Only way that I know of is to remove the seat..I know thats not what you wanted to hear but...I don't belive that there is enough room to do it any other way

 

I believe there is a diagnostic connector on the drivers side, close to the door, in a plastic bubble. of course, you'll need a special nissan scan tool to read from it, because our cars predate OBDII. I know my '88 had one.

you might also be able to reach under the seat with a stubby phillips head screwdriver (or even an offset screwdriver or a phillips bit on a ratchet handle) and carefully take out the screws that hold the ECU to the floor, then move the passengers side completely back, and remove the front 2 screws. then carefully pull it out by the wiring harnesses. but when you put it back in, make sure those screws are tight, because that ECU needs a good ground.

That's how I did it before it occurred to me that I could remove the seat.

Hope this helps.

 

and an 8mm 12-point socket worked great when I pulled my seat out, but your best bet is an internal socket (inverted torx). less chance of them stripping. then get a really long extension and a really long ratchet handle, and put a pipe on the end of it a pipe on the end of the ratchet is every mechanic's secret weapon. I had an issue with them being rusted, but they eventually came out.

nissan must have gotten smarter, cos in my sentra, the ECU is behind the stereo. pop away a plastic panel, turn the screw, and watch the check engine light on the instrument panel flash. it's about 126409245 times easier.

and then they started OBD-II in 1995. talk about easy. plug 'n play.

 

I actually had a short stubby Size 1 phillips screw driver at the time. Basically back the seat all the way back, use that to pop the screws...then push it all the way forward and pop the rear screw. That's what I did.

S

 

i found that there are 2 kick plates bolted to the seat that come off and then gives you acess to the front screes holding the thing down and then move the seat all the way up and you can get to the back ones and then pull it from the front.

stubby screwdriver is reccomended

 

I think I will try removing the ECU to check codes. Are the screws the ECU's ground, or does it have a ground wire. I'm nervous about moving a 17 yr old computer around without frying it.

I'll give it a try Friday when I get my car back from the shop.

 

well considering that it is inside your car its getting quite the jossling arround any way

 

you'll be ok moving it, without causing any damage. that is, unless you happen to hit it up against something too hard, or drop it or whatever. a minor bump isn't gonna hurt it too much. however, if you disconnect the wiring harness for any reason, make absolutely sure the ignition switch is OFF. the transistors and ICs inside there are delicate to any sort of voltage surges. even so much as touching the pins of the connector can discharge static in your body and fry an IC chip.

one other thing I recommend. I know in some older Fords that had external voltage regulators, if the wiring harness was connected before the unit was fastened to the sheet metal frame (grounded), the electronics inside would suffer. I don't know if that applies here, I could very well be wrong. but I'd still take it into consideration. it's a small measure of protection for a machine you don't want to replace.

but for the most part, you'll be ok. once you get to the setscrew and indicator LEDs, everything else is simple and straightforward.

Dan