For the turbo guys with their battery relocated, I was wondering what other parts would I need extra if I were to buy a standard battery relocation kit. Such as the one from summit racing:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ery+relocation



any tips, advice, how-to, of info? I noticed that there seems to be a breaker or something on the stock positive cable (clear square looking thing underneath the little red cover). How did you guys run the lines from the engine bay to the trunk also?

 

I used 1 guage wire and ran the wire under the back seat to the pasenger side of the car, under the exhaust tunnel carpeting under the armrest, past the shifter on the left side, and under the dash assembly. Through the fire wall in two places (positive, and Negative), right next to the ECU. and then the possitive goes directly to the positive terminal on the starter. the negative hooks first to the tranny, then the frame, then the engine, fuel rail, and both headlight ground points. The negative wire grounds under the back seat as well.

I would advise you to run a ground wire all the way to the engine.

hope this helps, Sorry, no pics yet...

Nate

 

any reason why you feel that you need to run a separate ground all the way to the engine compartment?

 

Well I havent yet! I just ground it in the rear But now that the motor is not ground to the batt any more like it was when it was up front I get mad engine
noise. So im going to try to run a ground up front to see if it will clear it up but if my stuff wasnt on amps I would just ground in the rear.

 

Same Idea as a hyper groundwire kit,

better elecrical flow = less power needed to force electrons through the car,... and for less motor noise in your radio... ect. ect.

you need to have a ground wire connected directly to the motor, rubber motor mounts don't conduct electricity.

Nate

 

why not just ground the motor to the chasis up front? I've never seen or done a relocation like that before. that seems like way mor trouble stringing another line back from the trunk

 

yeah what damax said...the entire body is ground. just run leads to the body from the engine.

what's more resistant? entire frame of steel or one stream of copper wire?

i thought the same as u until Don smack some sense into me again.

 

Larry, Frank has one... just give him a call... You should have taken a look that evening.

 

i have mine grounded to a bolt in the trunk and have the power wire going to the modified stock battey post. everything works fine and no noise this is with 4GA wire also which i hear is alittle small but so far so good

also if your going to run your car at the track you should have and external shutoff switch. my local track wouldnt let me run without one

 

If you spend more than $50 on a relocation kit you're being ripped off. I bought 25ft of 0/1ga welding cable($25 shipped), Attwood battery box with straps and mounting bolts($15 shipped)http://store.tackletogo.com/atbatbox.html, and $6 on battery rings to attach the cables to the battery.

 

did you do it yet? the whole thought of an external switch on a street car is just annoying to me! I understand the rules and all, but tech rules for street cars are getting annoying and seems to have gotten stricter lately. just for ****ing test and tune I was going to have to do that on my Integra along with a sealed batt box(hatchback), but I just got a smaller battery and kept it upfront.

a good idea I heard was using one of the long rod type shut offs and just removing the taillight whenever you goto the track and have the shut off handle come thorugh there...when you''re done, disconnect the rod and pop the tail back in, still a ***** though

 

why is that? so if the battery was relocated in the back bolted down and sealed in a case I would still need a external shutoff switch?

chunger: i'll probably have frank install it since I hate electronics. Although I haven't figured out what to get yet

 

yes, check the rule book....its IMO. but each track is different majority tech inspectors will let you slide at a test and tune as long as the box setup looks neat

 

just great. So when the turbo is completed I still can't run at the drag strip. How about for full length track events such as buttonwillow raceway

 

why dont you ground the battery to the chassis in the trunk

thats where mine is.

I have a 4 port splitter that i originally had with my stereo. I cut the power cables and wired them into the splitter. then i ran 0 gauge wire through the firewall and all the way back into the passener side of the trunk.

I picked up a marine battery box and a two foot cable from autozone for a couple of bones.

for the grounding points in the engine bay, i used an ooglie hyperground style kit.

the only problem that i had is that I originally ground the battery to the bracket that holds the jack. I reground to the chassis and everything has been fine.
Steve

 

no i havnt and although an idea i dont want to have to remove a tail light each time

the other thing is i want to easily diconnect the switch so i dont have people playing with it and turning off the power to my car and i know my friends would do this every chance they get

 

thats my main concern right there