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More pics of D2 install, someones going to kill me for this

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Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:13 PM
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More pics of D2 install, someones going to kill me for this




Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:16 PM
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hmmm. i would have thought, you would have adjusted them lower than this..looks sweet though
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:19 PM
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I'm .3 inches lower than the S techs and about the same height in the rear. I live in Arkansas and the roads suck here. I'll probably spend forever digging asphalt out of my grill.the pics are too dark to see, plus my gas tank is empty so the back will come down more
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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Looking real good. How's the ride compared to your S-Tech?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:21 PM
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looks very nice. is it hard to adjust them? i read your other posts. did you have to put them together and all? they did not come in the box, like the pics show??
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:23 PM
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I had stock before these, but my stock struts were gone. Surprisingly these ride a lot better. As picky as I am I can tolerate these
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:24 PM
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Yep they come in the box assembled except for one of the rears was put together wrong or different from the other. The dampeners just slide in from the top
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 07:07 PM
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Hmmmm. Are you sure that the slot in the camber plate is supposed to face that direction? It seems to me that the top of the strut should be able to move inboard or outboard and not diagonally like your top picture shows. In other words, the top of the strut should move in the same direction as your FSTB. Maybe there's domething different about this design?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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Thats a good question? they weren't labeled left or right and there's only one way the three holes line up? Maybe someone else can offer some insight?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 08:18 PM
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How's the ride when you go over bumps and potholes?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 08:52 PM
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Dips in the road and minor bumps are really not bad at all. A pot hole about 4 or so inches gets ruff. a bunch of ripples in the raod that used to bounce my car sideways, now nice and smooth
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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Wow. Looks pretty sweet! Maybe I should've gotten these too.
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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Very cool! I still want these

At your current settings, the car def looks higher than S. Tech's...maybe it's the angle of th epics?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 09:39 PM
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Hey guys...i just got done installing my fronts....i guesstimated my drop to be around 1.75 inches....i am not satisfied with this drop....i'm lookin for maybe a 2.5 all around....do i actually have to remove the front/rear coilovers agian if i want to go 2.5 ? or is there a way to adjust it without taking off the coilover itself?

sorry for such a newbie-ish question....but the damn D2s didnt come with instructions....and i asked around and ppl said the little purple collers are there to "fine" tune the drop (.1-.2 inches)...but if u want to lower it even more (.3-1.0 inches) you have to remove the whole coilover....is this true? once again sorry for this newbie-ish post...i never had experience with coilovers before
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 10:19 PM
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No, just remove the two bottom bolts and pull it away from where its mounted. Then turn the collar clockwise to tighten. You should notice the collar moving up, which will lower the car. I set mine up so that I have maximum travel and the lowered ride height. If you look at my picks you can see that the springs aren't compressed any until the car is on the ground. If you tighten the spring to lower, you'll make it ride like a covered wagon.
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 10:22 PM
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I think its the angle plus its dark. Accord to housecor's site the S techs give you 25.5 inch from the ground to fender, the same as mine. My rears are abouta 1/4 inch higher than the S tech, but since my tank wasn't full, I figured it would drop and level out when gas was added. I can easily go another 1.5 inches lower without any problems
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by skalberti
No, just remove the two bottom bolts and pull it away from where its mounted. Then turn the collar clockwise to tighten. You should notice the collar moving up, which will lower the car. I set mine up so that I have maximum travel and the lowered ride height. If you look at my picks you can see that the springs aren't compressed any until the car is on the ground. If you tighten the spring to lower, you'll make it ride like a covered wagon.

So to raise it or lower it, you have to remove the two bolts that are torque down to ~120lbs of torque? Or it is two other bolts that you are talking refering to. That seems troublesome. Can you clarify. Thanks
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 10:51 PM
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Ya I Would Say The Stechs Do Look Lower Then The Settings You Have With The D2 Coilovers!!!
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 06:23 AM
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I am more interested in keeping good ride quality with coilovers. KPazzo intially said that his D2's rode smooth like Maxspeeds or H&R's. But after a month of driving on them, his story changed. I know the Teins aren't the best riding springs, so how does the D2's compare to the stock ride? How many miles have you put on the car since they were installed? What are the unexpected pros and cons of the coilovers? Thanks for the feedback. I am sure it will be useful for everyone.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Iilac
So to raise it or lower it, you have to remove the two bolts that are torque down to ~120lbs of torque? Or it is two other bolts that you are talking refering to. That seems troublesome. Can you clarify. Thanks
Sounds like it. That would get me so anoyed.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Iilac, this is the only way I know to lower it and still keep the maximum amount of suspension travel. My main concern is keeping a tolerable ride quality. Really you should only have to do this once, unless you change you mind a lot. You can shorten the spring perch to lower as well, but a much rougher ride is expected.
Lumbee, my stock struts were worn out. So my car rode like an old Lincoln, just floated around, so comparison is poor. With the coilovers, the ride is stiffer in the front but still tolerable to me. The back really has no difference over strock to me. The car is a whole lot more responsive and funner to drive. On normal roads the car rides and handles much better than stock. I've driven about 20 miles or so on them so far, but I drove on the known bad roads where I live. They handled them better than expected. When you hit a deep manhole or about a 3-4 inch deep pothole, things got rough. As picky as I am, I'm satisified with what I have lost in ride quality, for the looks and handling I gained.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 12:18 PM
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Did you get an alignment yet?
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 01:16 PM
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I have GCs and AGX and i saw these and im concidering the upgrade...

How do you think these would compare? are they good for the price?

how do they compare to the JICs?
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by XeroX
I have GCs and AGX and i saw these and im concidering the upgrade...

How do you think these would compare? are they good for the price?

how do they compare to the JICs?
No I'm getting it aligned on tomorrow. As far as comparison to the JIC's and GC's, I really don't know much about them. The D2's have a lot of the same features as the JIC's, but at half the cost. I just got back from a 70 mile trip on some old back country roads with lots of curves. The springs are starting top settle and ride is getting better. The handling is unbelieveable and the car just eats up the road and asks for more. I'll keep everyone updated on the ride as I drive more with them.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 03:03 PM
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imported_JIC_A33
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[QUOTE=skalberti]

this pic looks so wrong. My JICs face front to rear..u sure those are installed right?
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 03:11 PM
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Well there were no instructions included? The holes line up one way only so I'm guessing this is right, but not 100%. Also did your JIC's say for track racing cars only or for street use as well?
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by skalberti
Well there were no instructions included? The holes line up one way only so I'm guessing this is right, but not 100%. Also did your JIC's say for track racing cars only or for street use as well?
i wish i had my digicam to take pics, but i think yours are installed wrong. doesnt matter if its for race or street, your setup looks wrong. sorry dude.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 05:44 PM
  #28  
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I'll have to call Urban Imports and see if they know anything else or if this is right? I was asking about the street or race because on my box it said " for track racing cars only" My concern here is their ability to handle the rough everyday driving. I know the roads I drive daily arent track smooth.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Nissan SE-R
Hmmmm. Are you sure that the slot in the camber plate is supposed to face that direction? It seems to me that the top of the strut should be able to move inboard or outboard and not diagonally like your top picture shows. In other words, the top of the strut should move in the same direction as your FSTB. Maybe there's domething different about this design?
Well according to mike @ Urban Imports and the guy that aligned the car today, they are at an angle so you can adjust camber and caster at the same time. The alignment shop liked the way they adjusted, said it was very easy to align.
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 08:22 AM
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whats the proper way to set up the camber paltes, i have my jic's set so the the strut can slide left and right, not, front and back, or at an agle, which way is the right way?
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 09:39 AM
  #31  
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After learning the hard way they are supposed to slide left to right
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by skalberti
After learning the hard way they are supposed to slide left to right
so the pics you posted were wrong?
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