A whole bunch of oil/addtive questions...
A whole bunch of oil/addtive questions...
OK, so after reading the FAQ's and visiting several other forums such as bobistheoilguy and autorx, I wanted to get some input from Maxima owners who may have used these products in their vehicles to see if they were worth the expense.
1. Fuel Power/Lube Control
-- Has anyone used either of these products and if so, have you seen the same improvements that I have read from many of the posters on other sites? How is this product when compared to Lucas or Berryman B-12?
2. Auto-RX
-- Another product that has gotten great reviews on other forums. I know that several .org'ers have used this product and was wondering what your thoughts were on its benefits. Also, for the rinsing phase, which Dino oil to you recommend?
3. I just purchased my 2001 AE about 1000 miles ago and am wanting to put Mobil 1 or some other highly rated synthetic in, without knowing what is currently in there or what has been used in the past. Should I first do a change with a blend such as Drive Clean or can I go straight to the synthetic (this after the AutoRX process, of course).
I know that these questions probably are more suited to the fluids forum, but I figured they would get much more response here. After coming from a '98 Tahoe 4x4 and using MaxLife for the last 2 years, I am really seeking some good input on what I should do with my Max. Thanks for the help.
1. Fuel Power/Lube Control
-- Has anyone used either of these products and if so, have you seen the same improvements that I have read from many of the posters on other sites? How is this product when compared to Lucas or Berryman B-12?
2. Auto-RX
-- Another product that has gotten great reviews on other forums. I know that several .org'ers have used this product and was wondering what your thoughts were on its benefits. Also, for the rinsing phase, which Dino oil to you recommend?
3. I just purchased my 2001 AE about 1000 miles ago and am wanting to put Mobil 1 or some other highly rated synthetic in, without knowing what is currently in there or what has been used in the past. Should I first do a change with a blend such as Drive Clean or can I go straight to the synthetic (this after the AutoRX process, of course).
I know that these questions probably are more suited to the fluids forum, but I figured they would get much more response here. After coming from a '98 Tahoe 4x4 and using MaxLife for the last 2 years, I am really seeking some good input on what I should do with my Max. Thanks for the help.
I used AutoRX....
I used AutoRX before switching to synthetic in both my tranny & engine. Did I get real crazy about it or scientific? No. But what I did was when I emptied my oil I snaped some pictures by sticking my small digital camera right into the oil filler cap & did the same thing when I was done with the cleaning & rinse phases. The difference was amazing in the pictures inside the oil fill area. It looked brand new after the rinse phase as compared to the shots prior to the cleaning phase. But the car felt no different performance wise. I guess it is just peace of mind knowing you cleaned it out. There was no negatives to my exp with AutoRX. It definetly cleaned it out.
soonr1,
I believe that an auto rx treatment with Castrol GTX 10w-30 would be a good start. Auto rx recommends dino oil for the treatment phase and rinsing phase. Check their website for instructions.
As for synthetics, Mobil 1 is okay but I would go with the 10w-30 over the 5w-30. If you want to thicken the M1 10w-30, add a quart of their 15w-50. M1 15w-50 is more like a 10w-40 than the old fashioned 20w-50 and has more zinc (ZDDP) antiwear additive than the other M1 grades. M1 is only motor oil that I would consider mixing.
There is another off the shelf synthetic that is good. It is the Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (red background) made in Germany or GC as it is affectionately called by some. It is non API rated and has no starburst for energy conserving. Go to Bob is the Oil Guy and search using "GC".
I am in a rinse phase of auto rx and will be trying the GC with lube control and fuel power. LC/FP are not "snake oil" like 90% of the additive products on the market. LC is an oxidant inhibitor for the oil that controls sludge and varnish, lowers insolubles, and prevents oil from thickening such as Amsoil. FP is not an octane booster but a catalyst/cleaner that allow the user to go with a lower grade of fuel such as 89 octane. FP increases the potential energy from the fuel, lubricates fuel injectors, and reduces "blowby" in the combustion chamber.
The last additive is Schaeffer's #132 Moly EP. It can be add to an oil such as Mobil 1 to boost its additive package. M1 uses a good basestock but the additive package is weak since it must hit the under $5 price point for retail stores
If you are a Mobil 1 fan, the Schaeffer's #132 and lube control will make the oil perform better and last longer.
I hope this helps.
I believe that an auto rx treatment with Castrol GTX 10w-30 would be a good start. Auto rx recommends dino oil for the treatment phase and rinsing phase. Check their website for instructions.
As for synthetics, Mobil 1 is okay but I would go with the 10w-30 over the 5w-30. If you want to thicken the M1 10w-30, add a quart of their 15w-50. M1 15w-50 is more like a 10w-40 than the old fashioned 20w-50 and has more zinc (ZDDP) antiwear additive than the other M1 grades. M1 is only motor oil that I would consider mixing.
There is another off the shelf synthetic that is good. It is the Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (red background) made in Germany or GC as it is affectionately called by some. It is non API rated and has no starburst for energy conserving. Go to Bob is the Oil Guy and search using "GC".
I am in a rinse phase of auto rx and will be trying the GC with lube control and fuel power. LC/FP are not "snake oil" like 90% of the additive products on the market. LC is an oxidant inhibitor for the oil that controls sludge and varnish, lowers insolubles, and prevents oil from thickening such as Amsoil. FP is not an octane booster but a catalyst/cleaner that allow the user to go with a lower grade of fuel such as 89 octane. FP increases the potential energy from the fuel, lubricates fuel injectors, and reduces "blowby" in the combustion chamber.
The last additive is Schaeffer's #132 Moly EP. It can be add to an oil such as Mobil 1 to boost its additive package. M1 uses a good basestock but the additive package is weak since it must hit the under $5 price point for retail stores
If you are a Mobil 1 fan, the Schaeffer's #132 and lube control will make the oil perform better and last longer.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for all the help guys....this will definitely get me going. I am thinking about just running the LC/FP and not the AutoRX since I only have 48000 miles and that should help keep the engine clean and running smooth until later down the line when I need to run the ARx. I am also a big fan of Mobil 1 and will most likely be using that here on my next change. Thanks again.
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