What is the best 4th gen clutch if I have a lot of stop-and-go commuting? Also, when replacing my clutch, what other parts should I replace? What parts must I replace?

I have 108K, FYI.

 

You should resurface the flywheel. Replace the CV's if the boots are ripped since they have to come out anyway.

I really like my exedy stage 1. It actually requires less pedal effort than my OEM one, but I expect that will no longer be true as it wears. OEM would also be good, just make sure you don't get the key value.

 

NO way me too... get the OEm. i have driven a Car with the Exedy stage one and it sucked. there is no pedal feel very inconsistant which for me is difficult to drive because you can't tell where is picks up(grabs). it also sliped when you hammer it 1st --->2nd and it was broken in correctly. The Oem with hold all the NA mods and since most of us are NA that is all that is needed. and llike what was said in the previous post don't get the key value kit.

 

If only bolt on mods and dont plan on any boost or juice. OEM is the way to go.

 

lol that's what i said

 

I know that you said it. But he wants opinions of others, not just one person.

 

I will say it again. Patrick,there is really no reason to get anything besides stock. With all my bolt on mods I still break my drag radials loose on my 1-2 shift with the stock clutch.

 

OEM has held up to about 275 1/4 mile passes, about 120 of them were 5500rpm clutch dumps on slicks, and you KNOW I'm banging those shifts as hard as anyone. If you are staying with boltons I wouldn't get anything other than OEM. No point.

 

What's the key value kit?

 

The stock clutch is good. Unless you are seriosly modding the hell out of the car then you dont need something that holds more. Also the stock clutch will last longer then the others. Ive never heared of an aftermarket clutch lasting a really long time.

 

i will also agree if your n/a then there's no point in upgrading

 

http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaClutches

 

What can I expect to pay for a real OEM clutch. I am torn between the exedy (from other posts, and based on price) and the OEM one (from replies here).

THe exedy is around $125, and I am sure that the OEM will surpass that in price. Hopefully, I am wrong abotu that.

By the way, I plan no further "go" mods than the ones in my sig.

 

What's the different between the oem clutch and the Daiken/Exedy oem replacement (like those on ebay etc..)

Does anyone have a good analysis?

 

Spend the extra money on the OEM clutch and pressure plate. Overall, you'll probably spend over $300 for everything, but it's well worth it because you'll never have to replace the clutch again. I've been waiting for my stock clutch to die for a long time now and it still has yet to slip once in 110K miles and lots of 1/4 mile passes. Like Mike, I too can light the tire up on the 1-2 with DRs. Why risk putting some other clutch in there?

 

I run this JWT clutch with AASCO 6 lb flywheel. http://store.dragracing.com/product....=2083&catid=83

It's a great upgrade from OEM if you're looking to. It grabs relatively hard, but is very streetable.

 

The $125 exedy is the stock replacement one.

I believe all the OEM parts from Jrnissan were going to be a bit under $200 (with the "maxima" promo code) plus shipping.

 

If you are not planning on having nitrous or forced induction then I would go with stock clutch. It is like $170-200 shipped from JR nissan with "maxima" code and is better than any OEM replacement. To get a high quality aftermarket clutch that will actually grab expect to pay much more than that. That will be the easiest to drive and will be all you need without n20 or f/i.

 

Can anyone confirm this?

 

Is this price with everything that i will need? Or is that just the clutch itself?

Second Question:

What else do I NEED to replace? What else SHOULD I replace?

 

You want these: Clutch Cover 30210-40U06, Clutch Disc 30100-40U14, Release Bearing 30502-41U20.

 

good info and perfect timing since im in the market for a new one.

 

i'm still breaking in my stage 1 exedy, and i don't mind it, the pressure plate is kinda ghey, but i'm used to it. hopefully it'll yield the results i'm looking for. i like it, and the fidanza flywheel is a great upgrade as well.

 

you've asked for opinions and people have given your their opinions. Get the stock clutch.. and be glad you did.

 

My question is if the stock clutch is the one indicated above- the exedy that you find on eBay.

Let me state it like this:

I don't have $500 to drop on a clutch and the install. The whole thing is going on the credit card as it is, and this is NOT a mod- it is maintainence. I bought the car used and the clutch happens to be going. I need the most REASONABLE option- which may be the stock option. I am not trying to run 13's- just to get to work reliably.

 

Interestingly enough, I have 2 threads up, and both contradict each other. And the one thing that makes it all come together- the exedy from eBay and the OEM being the same- cannot be confirmed independently.

 

well think of this some of the faster maximas are using the stock clutch, nealoc187, Dave b and i30tmiked

 

Well, I am going with a somewhar unconventional setup. After a long tal k with my installer and with Dave B the parts guy, I am going OEM with a twist- I will be using the OEM pressure plate from a 5th Gen. Sentra guys have used it successfully, and it is thicker and more heavy-duty than the OEN 4th gen setup. I will be ordering BOTH pressure plates, and I will eb returnoing the one that does NOT go in the car. I have heard several reports that this will be a better setup, so I will order oboth (so that I can do the install in one day with no downtime if the 5th gen PP does not work), but I will hopefully be the first 4th gen with a 5th Gen PP in the stock clutch. All of the specs indicate that it will work, and a fit test was positive, but I am ordering both as insurance.

By the way, exactly what parts on the OEM are DIFFERENT from the Key Value version?

 

I found out that this is most likely Daiken-made, which makes it essentually the Key-Value clutch.

 

Well, Daiken = Exedy. Hmm... I just bought the Exedy kit from eBay ($114 + s/h), but have yet to install it - almost started to this weekend but got lazy. Why do you say that Daiken is essentially the Key Value? Has it been confirmed that the KV is a Daiken product? The quote from maxmods.dyndns.org in post #12 says LUK is the suspected manufacturer.

 

According to a repitible Nissan Parts guy, the Daiken parts are the Key Value. If other sources can confirm that the Luk/Daiken are the same things, then a=b=c means that Daiken=Luk=Key Value.

 

Additionally, if you look at some of the "Exedy" auctions on eBay, you will see Luk parts right in the picture of the parts for sale, which adds credibility to what I was told.

 

the ebay daiken/exedy kit is NOT the one to get. if you are interested in a real Exedy clutch go to their website the correct kit is listed with a part # that does not correspond to the ebay kit.


basically they have an OEM replacement kit which is a cheapy, ~$125 kit that is prolly less quality then the full OEM setup.

they also manufacture some higher stage kits that have better perfomance than the stock setup.

# 06803A or # 06950A

 

Aw, crap. Now I need to get rid of this damn thing.

 

It is actually NOT a bad kit, BUT make sure that you buy a genuine OEM Nissan throwout bearing. Most of the problems with that exedy kit have come from a sub-standard throwout bearing.

 

I'm in the same boat, time to replace the clutch. I've noticed some skipping over the past few months which was discussed in another thread and determined that it was not "pilot error". Now when I push it in any gear it has a tough time catching so it's definately time... can't complain seeing as I have 154K (miles) on it. I've read a few threads and decided stock is the way to go especially seeing as I have no performance mods, I don't have the money to drop into the car at this point in time. My question is how hard is it to do the clutch install yourself... are there any uncommon tools required for the job? Also, it was asked earlier if there were any other parts that must/should be changed at the same time, and the list I've got now is "Clutch cover, clutch disc, and release bearing". Anything else? Thanks in advance.

 

The parts that need to be replaced are the same ones listed in any clutch kit on ebay. That was the guide that I used, but I am definitely going all OEM.

 

any updates on that 2k pressure plate phenryiv1?

 

Yeah ... it's not bad ... it's AWFUL. I have a Key Value Clutch ... it's the worst clutch I have ever had. No predictable feel, soft pedal and it's slips like mad after 14 months. I'm already ready for another clutch.

PLEASE let us know how the 5th gen PP works out ... I'm going to be buying a clutch soon and this seems like a nice option.

 

You guys just made me loose confidence in the reliability of my car. When I bought my max it I noticed slipping after about 2 months 120k on odo at the time. Now I have the ebay exedy clutch. It feels just like the oem that was on it when I got it as far as drivability. I don't race my max I just drive to work and to school and pick up girls on the weekend. After 6k miles and 4 months of stop n go (90% city driving) the clutch is holding well and is halfway to the end of its "warranty". No slip has been detected and I followed the guidelines as far as breaking the clutch in and resurfacing the flywheel.

I got the ebay clutch because none of the local dealers had the stock oem clutch (non key value) and I didn't know about jrnissan. The dealer quoted me at $350 for the kit when it would have came in stock.

The oem has 6 springs on it where as exedy ebay clutch has four. Correct me if I am wrong.