Well its about 10 and a half hours till race time and I just took the car out for a thrashing and the clutch is slipping in second pretty bad. Although I spanked a z28 with it slipping but i hope it doesnt affect my runs. I am so pissed now I have a 4 puck disc here but i used one in my SER and hated it. Right now the car has a centerforce disc (dual fric) with a competition clutch high HP PP. WTF I just put the PP in like 1.5 months ago and it was brand new and the clutch disc was in good shape. Well now that I told my sh!tty story I will just hope it holds up too 6hrs of abuse tomorrow.

Any good recomedations for clutches?

 

I feel for you.....Going to the track sunday and I know my clutch is slipping. How smart am I.

 

Centerforce??? :


You of all people should have known better.

 

Ive had my act in since 02 ,never slipped once and i drop the clutch on my DR's and i'am very abusive with my car.

 

It was in the car when i got it. I just kept the disc and upgraded the PP

 

The CF disc is most of the problem. Once I grenaded one at 8k rpm in my '92 SE-R I have never used one since.

 

I blew a competition clutch 4 puck apart and unfortunatly i bought one for my max before that happened so i wasnt gonna put that disc in and risk it.

 

Get another OEM

 

OEM you must be nuts, Im running high 13s and a oem 4th gen clutch wont take that abuse well.

 

I was running 13.4s on slicks with 5500rpm clutch drops on an oem (not even real oem just some cheapo replacement). The clutch had been in my car for the last 3 years and has about 260 1/4 mile passes on it and still showed no sign of slippage at all.

 

I can launch at high rpm too but in second trying to plant the power doesnt work. I think the 3.5 gives that much more torque than the 3.0 at low rpm and thats why i dont think it will work well with a stock replacement.

 

That's probably true, your car definately has lots more torque than mine did. Anyways have you thought about Spec or Clutchnet clutches? Mardigras uses a Clutchnet.

 

Im thinkin of going with act definitly not spec

 

Sorry to ***** the thread, and this is probably not the place to ask. But how do you know if your clutch is slipping? Last week I was driving aggressivly and shifted into second and the RPM's just like hovered at 5500 for like 2 seconds. Would that be clutch slippage? Sorry again but I hope someone can help.

Mooney

 

Sounds like a slip to me, take it out and in 5th gear at about 50mph push the clutch in rev it to around 4k and dump the clutch if it doesnt drop instantly then its probably slipping. Mine just slips in second at low rpm when I shift out of first cause of spinning.

 

why not spec? I've driven one with spec stage 3, which holds more than 400+ lbs of torque (6 puck sprung hub with ceramic disk)

however, clutchnet is rather good also.

 

The Spec Stage 1 is well known for being over-rated. I haven't heard anything bad about the higher stages

 

Why can't they just make a clutch that everybody will agree on.

 

Exedy Stage I same as Spec?

 

Im not fond of the chatter of the spec I put in for meccanoble.

 

Is EXEDY the way to go for stock replacement up to say 300whp?

 

surprisngly the spec stage 3 is absolutely chatter free

 

Larrio how are you liking that? It's time for me to do my clutch and flywheel, and I really wanted to go with a lightweight Spec Stage 2 or 3.

 

Okay after reading around quite a bit, here's what I've compiled, feel free to add or dispute:

OEM = great all around clutch, slips a bit and can't handle boost too well
Exedy/Spec Stage 1 = like oem?
Act Stage 1 = harsh engagement, handles power well, doesn't slip, unsprung?.. chatters a bit and has a stiff pedal
Spec Stage 2 = Kevlar.. not a lot of info on this but it's different than 1 and 3
Spec Stage 3 = sprung puck, good engagement and good pedal feel
Clutchnet = Good engagement, good pedal feel, reliable as far as we know?
Centerforce = No good??

Am I way off on anything here? After sifting through threads for half an hour, I've come to the conclusion that 90% of clutch threads/posts are hearsey.

 

spec stage 3 is perfect for high NA or boosted applications IMO. Reason I skipped stage 2 is because I stay away from kevlar clutches (just general reading from other nissan and car owners)

the spec pressure plate makes the pedal stiffness just like stock, but with more feedback and spring-ness. Which is perfect for when i'm stuck in traffic or kind of tired after a long day. The 6 puck sprung hub with ceramic disk is awesome and relatively chatter free. Also its rated to spin past 8k rpm, although i'll never need to go that high. My personal preference is for a good clutch disk that grabs hard with a soft pressure plate instead of a weaker clutch disk that relies on a heavy duty pressure plate to clamp hard (i.e. ACT)

I don't have one in my car yet, but i've installed/driven it on a 95 maxima last week. Spec also offers a lightened clutch option for an extra $75

 

Same principal/advantage as a lightened flywheel?

If so, how much lighter?

 

The must information I have found about Spec Lightweight clutches:

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/how...ve/index1.html

For those too lazy to click a link, keep in mind this is a clutch for a mustang:
Lightweight
Item Stock Item
Driveshaft 22 lbs 12 lbs
Clutch 23 lbs 17 lbs
Flywheel 22 lbs 11.5 lbs

 

6 pounds is a good amount IMO.

 

they lighten the clutch by drilling holes into surface of the pressure plate. It looks very well machined. It'd save 1-2 lbs at most

 

So i'm guessing Exedy Stage share the same characteristics as OEM? Meaning t'll slip too. Cause now my clutch slips from 1st into 2nd between 5k and 6.5k and from 2nd into 3rd bet 5k and 6.5k. Clutch been on for about 1.9k miles


P.S. i don't have that much power on my car probably between 199 to 220hp

 

Tilley is probably pushing something in the mid-200 range at the crank.

 

1-2 pounds at most? I can't imagine a 5.0 clutch being 200-300% larger, unless the OEM clutch for our car is already "lightweight"

 

i think HLH has had pretty good luck with the clutchnet...im not posotive thats what hes using..but i think so...

 

That's what Matt P. used when he did his 11.9 sec run.

 

every time i see this i get so f*cking mad. It is only like 10 or 20 dollars more than spec 2 in the imports groupdeal and i get massive chatter....grrr

 

An extra 15-20wtq isn't going to drive the OEM clutch nuts. It's all about how you drive and how you handle the clutch.

Like Neal, I've had great experience with the OEM clutch. I'm pushing at least 200whp/195wtq, made over 40 passes, and 4000-5000rpm launches on my OEM 9-year old 113K clutch. It's never slipped once.

Your experiences with the Clutchmaster clutch is exactly what other people have described and they're running with far less power. Truth of the matter is there isn't an aftermarket clutch out there that's remotely as good as the OEM unit. Not one. The ACT will grab hard for a while, but it has a history of shredding the clutch face and has also been linked to numerous gear failures. If you beat on your car as much as you say and slam the gears hard, have a few extra trannies laying around because you'll need them.