About a year ago, I got the KS/rear O2 code and ignored it. Now my CEL got tripped again and got the 0302 (EGR malfunction) code. So my question is, can I just ignore it and get by w/o replacing it, or could something go terribly wrong? It seems to be driving just fine for the past week w/the bad valve.

 

I know someone has EGR Diagrams because i was getting the 1005 code which has to do with the EGR Selonoid Valve. I forgot his name though sorry. Anyways I would just suggest getting a new one, its a little over 60 bucks and takes about 10 minutes to install. If you leave this alone for to long I heard you engine will start ticking and your gas mileage will suffer so just get it done ASAP but its not an emergency.

 

Yeah definitely change it my EGR solenoid went and my mileage went right in the toilet it's worth the $60 bucks and 10 minutes to swap out!!

 

Wait, I think we might be talking about 2 different parts. Are the EGRC Solenoid and EGR valve the same thing? The EGR valve is $152 at my local dealer, that's why I was hesitant about replacing it if it wasn't a major issue.

 

i'm not real familiar with the egr valve on maximas but i did have a problem with an egr valve on another car of mine. Instead of throwing new parts at it like so many here do, i removed the valve, cleaned it, reinstalled it and it worked fine for the rest of the time i owned the car.

I suggest doing the same...unless you have more money than time. In that case, just put a new on in and hope that was the problem...and not a problem with the plumbing or wiring (if any) associated with it.

Just my .02

 

Remove the whole system.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=351657

 

I had the same issue...Replace Egr solenoid valve and your car should run like new again. Don't bother with the EGR valve itself, since EGR valves hardly fail.Here are the EGR diagrams.

How to troubleshoot EGR problems.
Credit to Dave SZ.

http://img52.photobucket.com/albums/v158/evilBIGD/EGR/

Also: Maxima Repair manual.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/maxima/esm/

 

The ONLY pro to removing the EGR system is a cleaner intake manifold.

 

True they hardly fail, but they can get clogged. Mine was clogged and it wasnt running good at all.

 

That + wieght loss + un-cluttering of engine bay. Its worth it to me and I can sell the stuff to people like the creator of this thread.

 

Weight loss- Nominal
Un-cluterring of engine bay- Subjective

Cons:

Higher CC temps- Can cause knock=timing retard=lost mid-range/partial-throttle power
More NOx emmissions- Bad for environment when there are NO performance gains from removing the system

 

Many people have proved that the higher CC temps are a non-issue. I drive this car less than 4K a year so I don't care about emissions. I spend a majority of my time driving at WOT anyway.

 

How have they proved this? Have they datalogged knock sensor signals, throttle position, RPM, and ignition timing?

 

BSwithTF is a prime example. He has been running like that for quite a while. The only time the engine is going to run into CC temp problems is under extreme load(WOT). EGR flow is minimized if there is any at all and therefore the engine has been built to withstand the high CC temps of WOT. If the knock sensor does turns out to be tripped due to detonation caused by the high CC temps then the benifits may be reaped from race fuel. Finally, it is a bit odd that one of the most knowledgable engine people is building an engine without it. I'd like to know SR20DEN's thoughts on the matter.

FYI, the knock sensor is not a readable funtion w/ datalogging. Timing is. The only way to read knock sensor voltage is with and OHM meter poking into the connection. My guess is that you'd have a difficult time getting it to stay connected and get a reading while you were moving down the road. Are you an octopus with 11ft tentacles? When I remove mine I'll post my new timing #'s.

 

First of all, the stock ECU is tuned rich in open loop so there arent incredibly high CC temps at WOT. That's why there's no EGR flow then, it isnt necessary. The only time EGR is used is at part throttle when the ECU tries to maintain a stoich (read much leaner) a/f ratio so that's when CC temps go up. You have it backwards. The point is EGR doesn't hurt, it only helps. It keeps combustion chamber temps lower at partial throttle which can allow the ECU to add more timing. And since EGR isn't used at WOT anyway, a car w/out EGR will be no quicker than a car with it.

My bad. You're right. You can't moniter the knock sensor signal with a datalogging device. And also, when you post your timing #'s make sure to do it at partial throttle in closed-loop mode.

 

Are you sure you'd wanna ohm out a live circuit?

edit: I guess ur not saying you'd be doing this for the KS, due to practicality...but I just mentioned this because in general, ohming out any live circuit isn't good.