This dyno look pretty much like my previous one, other than the A/F ratio sux a lot harder....can someone please post this dyno graph for me? If you can you put your email here and I will foward it to you. Thanks.

 

Max Power=279.03 Max Torque=265.74

Max Power=288.05 Max Torque=263.60

Max Power=285.86 Max Torque=265.47


You should Post your mods.

 

thanks, I sent it to you

 

I only see red x's

The only things that I have changed since my last dyno are: Pathfinder TB with Intake ported to match the 70mm bore, and a straight pipe to replace my cat. WHen you can actually see my dyno, you will notice that my A/F is off the charts. Last time I dynoed I was holding pretty steady around 11:1, this time I made a little more hp, but had a way worse tune. The odd thing is I have not changed any of the setting on my SAFC-II in between my dyno's. But this time at the dyno I pulled the AFC to %50 all the way and I still went below 10:1 when I started boosting.

Currently I have:
V2 with the 3.125 pulley
CAI
USIM
Pathfinder TB
cattman Y
greddy SP with straight pipe
4:1 FMU disc
AEM FPR set at 26 idle psi
SAFC-II

-so what do you guys think? Should I stop wasting my time and just save up for the JWT ecu? Cartech FMU? Or ditch the FMU? I am frustrated right now with the tune I have on my set up. Also for any of the booted guys do your cars show as running more rich when the air is colder? Mine sure did, and the guy at the dyno was telling me thats common for boosted cars to run richer when it is colder.

 

here it is bigger, so you can read it....what do you guys think? JWT to fix the A/F mixture? I am still confused how I could be way more rich this time than last time when I was holding a fairly steady 11:1. Is the AFC-II being overriden? any advice?

 

The air fuel seems to have a lot to do with it. Just my two cents. Get that fixed and you will see some nice gains.

 

you need to spend the money and do a dyno tune with multiple runs and dial it in on your afc, or buy an ecu, but id say just go tune it on the dyno

shouldnt be too hard to get it at 11.5:1 a/f with one tuning session and some afc adjustments

 

I think I have done about 15 dyno runs so that is not the problem....I had the car close to tuned last time I went but now that it has gotten colder it is running super rich.....I will probably just go with an ecu later in the year when i have money again.

 

theres no way a little bit of cold weather took you from 11.5 to sub 10, thats not possible

 

I would not think so either, but I dyno at the same place every time. The only thing I have changed since my 11-11.5 A/F run is straight pipe and PF TB with a port matched intake plentum. The temp was probably around 50 degrees colder this time.....I would like to figure this out too, but as it stands my SAFC-II is pulling 50% on high throttle from 3500 on to the rev limiter. Can the AFC-II be overriden by the ecu? I would like to figure something out because I know I am missing a lot of power due to this tune.

 

couldnt you go to a different fmu that would be closer to what you need then retune with the afc so its not being maxed out

 

I am running the 4:1, and I don't think vortech offers a higher ratio than that (but I need to check for sure).....or I could try the Vortech super FMU or the cartech fmu....

 

IMO the bigger the TB the leaner it runs at least thats what im running into with my all motor 3.5.

 

You can check out Chill Factory for a fully adjustable RRFPR that seems to work wonders on our ...sorry my old cars... Its worth a try, you could also look into a reg with a higher rate of gain but that still brings up the annoyance of trying to match.

In our mopars I know that the afc could be overridden in the long term fuel mapping by the stock ecu. The thing would have a perfect tune and by the next dyno session itd be back to pig rich. I would recommend going with something from
Split Sec the ARC-2 comes to mind or possibly a SMT6 from perfectpower. This would allow you to build on a stock fuel map and make independent long term adjustments.

Click Products THen A/F Calibrators

Perfect Power

Neither of them are flashy units and the PP requires a laptop for tuning. Other than that all I can say would be to look into the megasquirt and see if they have a tune available for your car. That would allow you to plug in the fuel settings and eliminate the need for alot of outlying pieces

 

Tilley
Nice build btw. I do have a question for you though. Is it pulling lean throughout the entire range? or is it almost like a catch up thing, to where its a split second lean and then the ecu catches on and then ups fuel to compensate for the air?

If its the second the megasquirt can help you extend the pulse time on your injectors to cover those...moments..
MegaSquirt

 

Basically its the whole rpm range just worse above 6k

 

4:1 on 370cc injectors right?


And what setting is you low and hi throttle on the SAFC?

When you adjust the SAFC, does it affect the A/F at all?

With what you have you should be able to tune your a/f to anything you want

What are your RPM settings on the SAFC?

 

Tilley,
You have aim? Try hitting up rodneysparks77, he can help you out with any ms questions. Heres a post that you can check out to see if it kind of fits within what your looking for
MS ON DSM, im pretty new to imports but i know that on our domestics this was a pretty easy setup to work with once they established base maps for our cars, and its pretty cheap. SOme configurations also offer full ignition control as well...just an idea. good luck.

 

yes that is my set up. I honestly forget where I have high and low throttle set....where should they be (hi 35ish)? And the SAFC did not really seem to affect the air fuel this time around, but when I had gone to tune before I was already pulling about 40% so I did not have much room left to play with. And the the rpm settings are set at every 300 rmp from 3000 to 6600. I will check my high and low settings next time I crank the car.

 

Lo should be 39%

hi should be 40 %

DON'T adjust low, JUST HI

Where is the gnd for the SAFC? Like what pin on the ecu?

 

I will check the hi, low settings....and as far as the ground I used the pinout that jimie had posted, and I have never adjusted the low....just incase there are settings in the low setting what should they be? I bought the SAFC-II second hand so the previous owner may have set something in there (it was on a EVO before).....since jaime set it up for me over the summer the only thing I am aware of that I changed was the hi settings. Also what does adjusting the throttle settings do? Also something I should mention is that when my brother was disconnecting the positive terminal on my battery he touched the wrench to metal (ground) and shocked the **** out of himself and put a mean burn mark on the wrench....but I check the SAFCII and all the setting were still in there for hi throttle...could this have caused a problem?

 

0% in the low settings.. good on the gnd then.


Long story short, when your @ 40% or higher throttle, the SAFC starts correcting the fuel. 39% and lower the SAFC does nothing and the ECU handles the a/f mix.. which works FINE.

It could have.. normally the SAFC holds settings for a few days with the battery disconnected

If your on the dyno, hell IDLE even, when you adjust the SAFC, you should see or hear the idle change or see teh A/F change.

Put your low throttle setting at 39% and change the LOWEST rpm setting on the LOW throttle to like -75%.. Your idle should change and almost stall out the car, it may even die. This won't harm the motor... DO NOT REV THE ENGINE>> TOUCH NOTHING ELSE>>> THIS IS JUST A TEST TO SEE IF THE SAFC IS STILL WORKING

CHANGE BACK THE LOW THROTTLE SETTING to 0% the entire rpm range

If it does nothing, something may be wired incorrectly or broken

And FWIW.. Bigger TB = More air = Lean

Cold air = Lean

So by being RICHER with these 2 conditions is odd

 

ok I will check that

-also the guy that runs the dyno say that typically boosted cars run richer when it is cold and n/a cars tend to lean out more when it is cold....got me?

 

I noramlly see a 1-2 psi spike in ~40 deg and below weather.. as do most sc'd folks... that's why I said colder = leaner

 

I checked my throttle settings last night and indeed they were off. My low throttle was set on 35% and my hi throttle was set at 65%. So I put these at 39% and 40% respectively. So would this have contributed to a rich situation? Also I varified that my SAFCII was working by adjusting the 800 rpm setting down until the car almost died....so the SAFCII is working, what gives?

 

SC is very responsive to the cold weather! I would also say fi will run more lean in cold weather. Cold=more air. If you added a PF throttle and a straight pipe this would mean you are moving more air...
Random thought: check spark plug gap since temp is alot colder?
Smaller gap?

 

The hotwire MAF does see most of the cold air because of the way it works. There shouldn't be much of a A/F difference betwen air temps.

And not every intake mod will make the car run lean. I have had many instances where the MAF saw too much extra air and made my mixture too rich.

 

bump^^^ what would the throttle settings being off cause other then I am not having any correction between 36% throttle and 64% throttle? Could this have anything to do with the rich condition?

 

Well.. 35% on the low throttle is where the ecu and the SAFC fight and the ecu wins.

This is proven by a member.. here is the post http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=13458.. look at post #2

I WOULD NOT PUSH THE CAR HARD UNTIL YOU DYNO AGAIN>> YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHAT A/F YOU ARE AT.

So basicly the ecu is trying to get you a stoch a/f and that may be pulling timing and a host of other things.

 

Thanks for the link bags....I will not run my car hard until I get back to the dyno, which will be in a few months (its in the garage for the winter). I still am not sure the throttle settings had anything to do with my rich issues on the dyno, because while I am taking my sample I am at 100% throttle the whole time.

 

No problem


Off the cuff guess... your ecu may have been pulling timing due to "interference" from the SAFC. I know it should not happen @ WOT.. but you never know.

 

the only other thing I can think to add is that I know that I have two small boost leaks on the charge side. One on the weld on the BOV flange, and the other on the BOV side of the MAF (front of MAF)....I am not aware of any leaks (per soapey water) past the MAF