Hello all

I got a P1320 code and I changed out all the coils and still get the same problem.

When the car is cold it stalls and backfires - but warmed up it is fine.
And the smell is very bad.

Before I changed the coils I pulled the spark plugs and all looked fine. So
I changed the plugs with new coils. Now it runs worse and when I pulled the plugs out there are all black.

So the black plugs and odor tells me that I am running very rich.
But no codes for that problem. What controls mixture? Air flow sensor - Air temp sensor?

Help - - - money is going down the toilet

Ken

 

yes, black souted plugs usually means a rich mixture, what code did it display?yes the air-flow sensor "tells" the computer how much air is entering the intake tube/manifold.the computer in turn tells the injectors how much fuel to deliever.(in MAF operating systems)the car is throwing a SES light? let me know the code and i may be able to help you further.

 

OKAY I get code P1320 and P0110 and P0105. I check the Inlet temp probe and it reading good. I have not find the MAP probe. When it should be ( in the book) is a boost sensor. But it has one vac line and one cannon plug.

 

My max has been running rough when cold for quite a while now. It runs fine after a few minutes.

I already have the new coils and I bought a MAF yesterday. As soon as the outside temp climbs back near normal I'm going to install the MAF. Hope this fixes it. The wife has been on me for months about this.

 

Yes please tell us if that helps - I do not know what to replace next.

How much is a MAF?

Thanks

Ken

 

bOUT $100 Overnight shipped from David Burnett

 

Who is David Barnet and where can I get the sensor

THANKS ALL

Ken

 

Doesn't sound like MAF problem at all. MAF wouldn't cause it to stall, but would not allow you to go over like 2500rpms.
Possibly o2 sensors?

 

NOT TRUE! You could have a bad MAF with no code. The AD200 MAF that came on the earlyer 2000 cars sucked bad.

 

I'm not saying that you can't have a bad MAF with no code, nor am I saying that they don't suck. I've gone through 2 already and now I have the updated one. What I'm saying is that stalling is not usually a symptom of a bad MAF. When my MAF's went bad, the car still started. It was just that I couldn't go over 2500rpms.

 

im getting a similar problem, car stalls when i shift into neutral. if it doesnt die it drops rpms to about 400 then back to about 600-800. no problem going over 2500 this happens cold or hot, other than that it idles pretty smooth and steady. any thoughts guys?

 

Well my problems were that it would stall when put into neutral, or rpms would go extremely low. And when it went bad for real the car stalled when i was driving, and i had to tow it because i didn't know it was the MAF. And i couldn't turn it on after like 4 hrs., Then I learned from the forum that you can just unplug it and it will go in d=safe mode which prevents you from going over 2500rpms. the i got the part overnighted for 103 from Dave Burnett at 1-888-254-6060. Make sure you tell him youre from the org.

 

i have the exact same problem now, it dies when i shift to neutral. did that problem turn out to be your maf? and when you replaced it it was fixed?

 

It was totally fixed as soon as i changed my MAF

 

THANKS TO ALL

I got a new MAF from Dave Barrnet and put it on and the car runs great
The big test will be in the morning when my wife drives it to work in the cold but
this afternoon it ran great.

Thanks all

Ken