I have the old control arms off the car, and I'm looking at them trying to figure out how to swap in the Energy Suspension parts, as well as new ball joints.

1) How do I take off the big hunk-o-rubber bushing? Just cut it off?



2) Any tips for removing the pair of bushings on the opposite side?



3) Which end do I use to press out the balljoint? (I think I press on the threaded end where the snap ring was)





Dave

 

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...esm/a32-fa.pdf

 

Thanks, but that is not what I need. In fact I have the print copy on my workbench.

The FSM tells you to replace the whole transverse link, not how to replace the bushings and ball joint within the transverse link. This is unnecessary, and I already have a spare set of used control arms and bushings.

Dave

 

ok, there's a snap ring on the top part of the ball joint. There's a picture of one similar to it on the bottom of page FA-10. I belive you need a "Suitable" tool to remove it.

 

1: I knocked it off the end with a hammer.

2: Take the pivot piece out, set the rubber on fire with a torch and let it melt/drip/burn out, insert a hacksaw blade into the remaining sleeve and cut the sleeve out of the control arm

 

Dave, what's your project all about?

My car is up on jack stands missing the right control arm.

Alfredo

 

Thanks, mzmtg. That leaves how to remove the ball joints. I think I have to push them out from the snap ring side. (You can see in pic 3 I already removed the snap rings)

I think my car has bad control arm bushings. It's got 130k, and the front end handling has steadily deteriorated over the last 40k.

I've already:
- replaced the sway bar bushings replaced (twice)
- had the ball joints, etc checked (one replaced)
- realigned 4 times, by qualified shops
- had the steering rack pinion retensioned (big, $$ hassle)
- gone through 2 sets of good tires (fronts wear very fast)

As you can imagine this is getting old, and the car still wanders around on anything but perfectly smooth level road. It feels like subtle bump-steer, which would be consistent with bushings since bumps would make the control arms move in the bushings. Supposedly mechanics 'tested' these before, but since they are hidden in the arm I think they just did lazy man test - 'if it's still there, it's good'

The only remaining things to do are the ball joints and control arm bushings, which you see here. Since the Max is my daily driver, I bought a pair of "low mileage" arms from a junkyard (indeed, mine are much rustier). My plan is to replace all the bushings on these arms with the Energy Suspension set, and when I get done rebuilding the tranny on my RX-7 I'll put these in the Max and get it realigned. I'm taking pics so that I can make a write-up for the non-believers who just buy all new control arms.

 

degeesaman, I had to have mine torched off. it's the only clean way of doing it. I wish I would have taken pictures, sorry. The back end is easier than the front. For the front, you also have to get rid of that inside metal sleeve, either by torch, hacksaw or chisle ( all without hurting the inside). My mechanic is becoming a pro at it, when he did my car it took us over an hour. Now he could does each side in about 15 min.

 

press the ball joint from top down. if you get the tool for it or rent it from your local parts store, it'll be an easy job. i did one of mine last weekend. and doing other side soon too. was a snap witht the right tools. getting in took alittle longer. good luck. and as for otehr things, i dont know bout those man

-rafal

 

Well I stopped by a friend's house today and gave it a go with the benefit of his 20t press, MAPP torch, and air impact wrench.

First, I torched the hell out of 1), and when we got it good and hot, (keeping the heat on the shaft, not the rubber) twisted the hunk off with a big channel-lock grips. It would have been a whole lot easier using the press, but his bar stock pieces were too rounded to catch the steel sleeve at the ID of the bushing.
Do I need to remove/reuse that little metal sleeve that's inside these hunks of rubber, or should it just install the urethane bushing over the bare shaft?

Second, the big nut on the opposite side is 26mm, and a 1-1/8" impact socket took it right off. I really need to get air tools, really I do. But we couldn't manage to use the press to pop out the aluminum shaft piece to even start playing with the bushings. So I'll be trying a bearing puller on that.

Finally, the ball joints came out using his press. It wasn't elegant, so next time I'll try using the specific ball-joint tool like greenmax said, it will probably go better. I still need to order the new ball joints from Energy Suspension, I hope they fit ok.

I took a few pics, but mostly we were busy and I'll take more this afternoon.

Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll need some more soon

Dave

 

The metal sleeve has to come out, it's not re-used, discard it.

 

Ok, so I guess the discussions of the metal sleeve are for people who burned off the rubber working outside-in, rather than twisting the whole thing off like I did. Good.

Dave

 

That's right, since you had the right tools, all you have to do now it lube and insert the new bushings.

 

I look forward to seeing your write up. Specially the time and money totals.

Funny to see you also have an RX7. I had a '79 that I loved dearly. Sometimes I think of getting anoter one. But, I had a hard time finding spare parts then. Can only imagine now. But, then again we did not have the internet back then.

Best of luck to you,
Alfredo

 

I saw some control arms with new ball joints and bushing for $66.00 a piece for the I30 /maxima on ebay. It was not a nissan arm but it was made in japan and looked decent.
Seller also has strong feedback. If anyone has used these let me know. Maybe it would be a good for you.....just a suggestion. I dont know if i would use these on a lowered car but I would be curious on a stock hieght what they may do.

 

I used a hack saw for the passenger side control arm bushing, and a sauza for the driver.

Saved me some time on the latter. Tho, you gotta be careful to not nick the control arm.