I have S/T lowering springs on my 87 SE. I am getting really loud clunking/rattling from my rear passengerside suspension. While I was having the car tinted this weekend at a performance shop I had them look at my suspension to try to find the rattling and He seemed to think that my rear spring was shot. Has anyone had any problems with these springs being shot when you get them? WHen I installed the springs in the rear I had to compress the stock springs to get them off, but when I put the S/T springs on I did not have to compress them at all to get the gland pack nut all the way down....once everything was put back together I still had about an inch gap between the spring and spring perch. Any imput from you guys? I am going to take it to a shop tomorrow (yes I am sick of taking my suspension off in below freezing weather), but I would like to hear some thoughts before I take the car in. Thanks for any thoughts.

-Carson

 

There was an entire inch? Was this before the assembly was put into the car? I remember mind didn't have to be compressed, but they sat in properly with no gap. Something is definately up with that.

S

 

what I am saying is after everything has been tightened up (while the assembly is still off the car) I still have a gap=no pressure on the spring until I put it on the car. Was I sent the wrong springs? I don't know what the heck....I may just have to put the stockers back on until I can get this figured out because I cannot take this unsafe feeling/rattling around any more.

 

Definately a good idea. That is just wierd that it's like that, because usually the weight of the car is going to make it compress some. Something is definately wrong.

S

 

they do compress while on the car but when the whole assembly is put together (outside of the car) and the gland pack nut is tightened down I still have about an inch of gap in between the spring and perch. Is this normal?

 

What I meant is when it's in the car and the car's weight is on it. It should compress the spring.

S

 

it does, but I am wondering about the free play you had before you put the strut assembly back on the car

 

my mechanic just called and told me that I am getting all that clunking because the strut is blown out....I guess that is really the only thing I did not check, because I assumed it was still good since its a fairly new KYB. Oh well...I'll keep you guys posted, I just want the clunking gone.

 

Nice, the KYB's we're used?

S

 

Nope they were new....the strut is not blown out though...that was their initial thought....they worked on it yesterday and they have the rattling isolated to the top, but I had to take the car back in this morning to leave it for the day again....I will keep you guys posted. On a side note while they were checking at Nissan for the Strut canister assembly I found out there are five different possibilities it could be so I needed the p/n off of my old housing....just another odd thing.

 

Interesting. Oddity number 89789289 for the 2nd gen Nissan Maxima. :P

S

 

Well $100 later my car is no longer making the rattle in the rear...which in my opinion its worth the money. They had to add some spacers (washers) into the strut canister to make the cartridge fit in there tight. So my final set up on the right rear is: 86SE strut cartridge with a swaped 87SE roter, 87SE canister nut, KYB strut insert and washers in the bottom of the canister

 

Werd.

S