I bought a 98 GXE about 6 months ago. It currently has only 87K miles and I have had lots of problems with it so far. The guy I bought it from claimed that nothing ever went wrong with it while he had it . Maybe it just doesn't like me or something. Here is a short list of everything that I have had to replace so far that is not brake pads, lights, general maintenance.
Knock sensor (if this is so common why doesn't Nissan own up to it?)
Alternator (Didn't check if it was under the recall before I replaced it but I doubt it is)
EVAP system vent control valve (set off a CEL and made my exhaust stink)
Rear main seal is seeping oil.
AC/Heat fan only works on speed 4 (I saw good info. in the FAQs on this)
CV boots are cracked.
Trunk doesn't really want to open anymore.
When you hit the gas hard in 5th gear the car shudders and acts like it is going to stall. RPMS don't seem to jump so Im guessing it isn't the clutch...yet.
This may not seem like much to some of you who have owned your cars for years but remember this all happened within six months or so. Every time I fix something a week later something else goes wrong. I expected a better product from Nissan I guess.

 

Yes, I would say the Maxima is very reliable.

In 206k miles I've only had one problem that immobilized the car, the starter died.

 

Yes the Max is very reliable, I'm had/having many problems, but she still fires up on command and haul a ss when needed. Repairs for the most part are easy and painless (except KS)

sadly someone us have more trouble with out Max than we want, and consider/do get rid of it.



KS= take 30 mins to fix and $85 (www.jerryromenissan.com)
EVAP= not difficult to repair
Rear main seal= this happened to me if you have tools just gotta pop off the tanny and clutch, then you’ll see the seal remove clean, put in new seal. Not too hard just time consuming.
CV Boots= www.raxles.com. $120 driver side axle, $150 passenger side axle. Brand new
Trunk = its in the faqs or how to’s
Don’t hit the gas in 5th gear somethings wrong
RPMs don’t seem to jump?= Don’t understand fully.


The case was you were sold a car that was in need of serious repair and you didn’t fuly check out the car, and bought it as is, if you knew of these reapirs you could have possibly knocked down the price a lot and tell them you’ll get it fixed and get the repairs done for a good price or yourself, and have a good running max for a good price.

 

what speed are u steppin on it in 5th gear?

my car's been reliable, of course there are maintanence issues, but thats with any car. most of the things you listed are typical replacement/fix items, my alternator went, but it was covered at the dealer, i would have checked with the dealer before getting it replaced. of course some of those issues are bit normal but its still a reliable car.

 

[QUOTE=nismos14]what speed are u steppin on it in 5th gear?

It seems to do it at all speeds in 5th from 50mph on up. If I just press the gas gently it accelerates fine. If I hit the gas too hard it shudders and feels like it is going to die for a second then it goes fine.

 

well i wouldnt hit the gas hard in 5th at all, its not meant to be ur pick up speed gear, its more of a smooth accelerating gear, downshift if you really want to accelerate hard. Does it happen in any other gear?

the part about it feelnig like its going to die sucks, it may be a coil pack issue.

 

[/QUOTE] Don’t hit the gas in 5th gear somethings wrong
RPMs don’t seem to jump?= Don’t understand fully.


The case was you were sold a car that was in need of serious repair and you didn’t fuly check out the car, and bought it as is, if you knew of these reapirs you could have possibly knocked down the price a lot and tell them you’ll get it fixed and get the repairs done for a good price or yourself, and have a good running max for a good price.[/QUOTE]

RPMs would jump if the clutch is slipping. That was my first guess as to what was wrong. Maybe it is the clutch but I would expect the RPMs to go up without any acceleration if it was slipping.
There wasn't anything wrong with it when I bought it except possibly the knock sensor. I didn't know anything about ghost codes on the max at the time so without a CEL I didn't think that anything was wrong. Alternator was fine at the time. The fan on the AC worked fine in all speeds. These problems started after I bought it.

 

I haven't noticed it in any other gear.

 

ohh I see your saying all these problems arose after you got the max, I got cha.

That seems to be symptons of clutch slipping, if your having a shop do it, you atlead wont be charged labor for the reair main seal, they will be in there anyway when doing clutch install and flywheel resurfacing so changnig out the rear main seal should take them about 20 mins tops.

I can relate to being frustrated when you just get your car. When I just got mine she drove fine, couple days later, found out axles we just about dead, clutch also, KS, Crankshaft sensor, speedo not working. . . it was sad.

 

Here's everything I can think of that has broken on my car without my help

Knock Sensor
Rear O2 sensor
Right-front O2 sensor
ECTS
Thermostat
Starter
Left-rear window regulator

The transmission is starting to feel weak, but it isn't dead yet

That seems pretty damn good for 10 years and 206k miles of abuse.

 

Well I have had some used Hondas and they had problems too with axles and other stuff. But my wife drives a 99 Camry that I bought 2.5 years ago and I haven't had to replace SQUAT! That car is the most reliable car I have ever owned.

 

I think the 4th gen Max is a very reliable car, especially the 97 and 98's. BUT... like any used car, it's all in how it's been taken care of and maintained. I don't care what make a car is, if it's been neglected and driven carelessly things will pop up eventually.

I think if you put some TLC into the car and get it fixed up then it should last you for a good while (provided the body's still good and the engine's not dead).

 

All I can say is "bulletproof" reliablity! I have 99,760 miles on my 97 Max and this car is just incredible! It has never, ever left me stranded. It has never, ever not turned on. Besides maintenance stuff, cv boots, brakes, KS, it has and continues to run like new. I am very happy with the 97 Maxima and plan to keep as long as it will run. I have hoped to find a car this reliable and I am glad I found it. I would recommend this car to anyone!

Did I mention the awesome speed this car has? POWER ON TAP! Bulletproof engine is all I can say!

 

I agree, it all depends on how well maintained it is. I have only had normal maintenance problems (o2's, knock sensor, ECTS, CV's, and clutch).. With 135,000 miles and track racing the car quite a bit, I feel that the Max is quite reliable.

-Nick

 

Mine has 116k miles. Problems: Knock Sensor (But that's the fault of the previous owner. F*cker put 87 octane 24/7), clutch (original one, 116k) may be going sometime in the future, but not slipping yet. The tranny was changed once in 116k miles (damn 5-speed bearings). That's it.

 

[QUOTE=MDeezy]Yes the Max is very reliable, I'm had/having many problems, but she still fires up on command and haul a ss when needed. Repairs for the most part are easy and painless (except KS)

KS= take 30 mins to fix and $85 (www.jerryromenissan.com)

[QUOTE]

where did you get the ks price from?
they want 152.59

 

Fuel octane rating has absolutely nothing to do with knock sensor failure.

 

I have a 97 that I have owned for almost 5 years, just turned 120k miles and so far the only major repairs I have done is replace a CV boot and starter. This is probably the most reliable car I have ever owned.

 

I have a 97 Max and mines been quite reliable. Just some dash light bulbs that went out and the biggest probelm I have now is getting a new exhasut system casue its starting to rust. But I never had any problems with tranny, sensors or big things like that. Granted I only have 75K.

 

It seems like some of you lump general problems that the maxima has (ie. Knock sensor, O2 sensor, ect.) in with "general maintenance." I consider things like brake pads, oil changes, other fluids as general maintenance not expensive sensors. Things like that IMO should not go wrong with a car that doesn't even have 100K on it yet.
Maybe Im just a little pissed and need to vent. I thought that once I got that stupid Evap vent control valve fixed I would be in the clear for a while. But the tech came out and told me what I already feared: my oil seepage was coming from the rear main seal. Just to kick me while I was down he mentioned that the CV boots were cracked (not leaking grease just yet though). Then, this morning I notice that I have to have the heat on high to get the fan to work.
I feel like I treat her so good and then she bangs the neighbor while Im at work . I just want some reliability before I invest in ANY performance mods.

 

I truely believe you should have taken better measures when buying that car. It has 87k on it. So for 87k, the previous owner could have abused or neglected it. If abused or neglected, no car is going to be 100% reliable.

So I'd try to seperate model reliability from previous owner abuse.

 

Can someone here define what is "RELIABILITY" ?

Looks like the reliability has got sthg to do with number of times the car stops on the highway and immobilized ! To me, the relialbility has got sthg to do with number of times that car needs any kind of money/effort invested in a given period (other than oil change which is mandatory for all cars).

But as far as I can see, there are so many items not listed in the manual's general maintenance that need to be replaced regularly. ALso, there are couple of items on the General Maintenance (inspection/replacement) listed in the car's manual that nobody gets done when its due. Maybe if these things are taken care of, the car is reliable !?!?!

 

Well, most of these things couldn't be caused by abuse:
Alternator
KS
Resistor on fan switch
Leaking rear main seal
Evap vent control valve
CV boots

Nothing on that list was wrong when I bought it except possibly the KS. It was in near perfect condition. The previous owner was a bike mechanic and used synthetic oil in the car. It was clean and he had records for most of the maintenance he did.

 

Well I view reliablility as things not going wrong on the car. It did leave me stranded once when the alternator when out. I just don't view a car as reliable when something new breaks or goes wrong once a month even if it will start and move.

 

How long do you think these things are supposed to last? I mean you do have 90k on it. Alty, KS, Evap and CVs are pretty easy. Rear main is a pain though. If the previous owner used synthetics, it should not developed a leak.

 

I never replaced anything I didn't want to replace. My max is the shizit! There isn't a car I would trade it for.

 

Maybe Im expecting too much. This 98 is the newest car I have ever owned (I own a 99 toyota but my wife drives it). My previous cars were all over 100K miles and more than ten years old when I bought them. I thought that getting a newer (for me that is) Nissan would save me money in repairs. And my wifes 99 Camry has not had one single thing go out on it and it has the same miles on it. So I thought the max would be comparable to that car as far as repairs go.

 

For a DIYer like myself, the only difficult repair would be the rear main seal. But even that wouldn't be too difficult as I've done many clutch jobs etc....

 

I do sound systems. I did the KS myself and I can probably fix the fan motor resistor. I don't mess with alternators and clutches. And since I didn't even know for sure what the evap system was, I figured a mechanic was my best bet .

 

I think once you get these things tackled, the max will be as reliable as you need it to be.

 

Mine doesn't seem that reliable, always something wrong. But, I think that has to do with me. Everything mechanical I drive seems to break. Bikes, sleds, cars. Oh well, at least I have fun fixing stuff.

 

Its funny to hear people complain about the problems a maxima has. Have you ever owned a ford or a chevy, or worse yet a chysler..?..then you will know what repairs really are if it hasn't started on fire for no reason. I've had my share of honda's, and they have their issues too. I will give Toyota some credit for being at the top of the pile, but they will make you pay for it at the showroom.

Complain about a $15 thermostat if you want, but the intake manifold leak on my tahoe wasn't fun, alternator at 55K, the AC quite working at 60K miles to the tune of $600 and it still sucks, water pump at 85K, the rear axle leaks (again), as does the front axle and oil cooler lines. Parts in the front end are starting to wear out, and my gas mileage is dropping like a stone (probably a $200 egr valve), the heater console is acting up and the heater fan is in need of replacement. Now with 90K on the clock I am saving money for a tranny later this year cause thats acting up. Before this I had a Ford truck....at 60,000 it was a throw away...any moving suspension part or axle seal was worn out or leaking...seriously. It was $400 in parts and a full week for me to do all the work.

The most expensive repair my last maxima needed with 126K on it was a new rear wheel bearing assembly. After three maxima's, I am a Nissan fan.

 

I would say it definitely depends on the specimen and how u and the previous owner(s) drive and mantain it. My first max had its share of little problems but never left me stranded (until i threw a rod) And i went through 2 engines on that one. The first engine had a timing chain problem that made the performance deteriorate slowly, but it would still turn over and get me where i was going every time. However the max i just bought, i paid $3500 thinking i got a good deal because worst case senario if it needed 2k in work i'd still be around what i expected to pay for a nice max. Well this one has needed at least 2k of works since i got it 2 months ago, and as soon as i fix one problem another unrelated one mysteriously appears. So i'm thinkin the previous owner was a moron. And i'm sure i'm correct. I think once u tackle all the main problems on maxima's they are bulletproof and will always get u to were u need to be and fast. Its just a matter of correcting wear and tear problems, which is normal considering our cars (95's at least) are 10 years old now ... Just think about this the auto tranny in my last max outlasted 2 engines and had about 200K miles on it with NO problems, my dads 2000 accord has 100k miles on it and the tranny is shot. And thats a honda there supposed to be reliable, and he doesn't beat the crap out of a car like i do.

 

you forgot to mention the worst dealer of all... Mitsubishi, plus they have chrystler trannies

 

im gonna say for the most part no

 

I spoke too soon

My car died on the side of the road on my way to lunch. I have no idea why...

 

ouch hope it's nothing too serious

for the most part my car has been reliable... aside from a faulty wire in the transmission that took the dealership nearly 2 months to figure out (under warranty) and a caliper that seized on me, and my coil packs going bad....

 

NO. Personally i wouldnt buy another nissan. Toyota and Honda have better reliability ratings. I've owned a used honda for the longest and the engine components have never failed once. The first thing to fail was the 02 sensor, but at 160K.

 

I would say the Maxima is pretty reliable esp. for the original owner. The problem is that the original owner had to make numerous trips back to the Nissan dealer to get stuff fixed under the 3 yr/36, and then some more things with the 5 yr/60. That was really annoying. But once done, it's fine. My car is at 103k now.

It sounds like the one the poster got probably never got any of the stuff fixed. That's gonna add up to a lot of coyne at the dealer now unfortunately. EVAP is an expensive job, and it fails in the mid 50's usually. It's more than just an idiot light being on--it causes progressively worse hot starts, to the point where in the summer the car doesn't want to start after running and excessively cranks. Over $400 at the dealership to fix.

 

I couldn't agree more!!! My 1996 Max has 201k miles on it, and it's smoother than most cars with a third her mileage or less.

Things that I've replaced since new becuase of failures (not because of upgrades):

Knock Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
Starter motor (it never actually died, but I knew it was going so I did it preventatively)
Left front ball joint
Left front wheel bearing

Even with all the miles my car has, I don't hestitate taking her on long trips far from home...and I have no intention of replacing anytime soon. Taking her to 300k!

By the way, the Maxima and I30 both won as most reliable in their class for the 1997 model year as tested by JD Power and Associates.