I finally got my max back from the tranny shop after 3 weeks. They took the 3 month old rebuild out, replaced the old tranny mount, and put a brand new rebuild in, and still my max clunks into drive.

I dont know what to do. I think it is a combination of a 1.1k idle and a soft aftermarket oem tranny mount. I tried to fix the idle problem with an autozone tps but that didn't help at all.

Any suggestions.

 

there should be an idle adjustment screw on the iac valce at least there is on the VE

if it still clunks into drive whith idle at 650 then take back to trany shop and have them fix it

 

Did you adjust that TPS properly? It's suppose to be set to 1K ohms when the throttle body is fully closed and 9K ohms when it's fully open. If it's not set properly, you will clunk into R and D. If your motor mounts are bad, then you will clunk badly going into gear. Unless you've replaced your motor mounts, then most likely, they are bad.

 

They have done all they can do to try and fix it. This was the second time i took it back. Now it has a brand new rebuild in it, instead of a 3 month old rebuild.

As for the tps, i am not sure im testing it correctly. What should my volt meter setting be? and which of the three cotacts do i test?

Thanks for all the help.

 

You have 3 male terminals, A, B, and C. Test the resistance of B and C. You are not suppose to test the voltage. The ignition needs to be off. Just unplug the TPS sub harness connector and test the resistance. If it's not in spec, then adjust the TPS by turning it and tightening the bolts again and test it again.

 

I finally checked the tps, and adjusted it right to 1k ohms. Then i adjust my idle(in N) to 750 rpms with the AAC valve.
My car still clunks into drive horribly. From N to D the car shakes and a slam or loud clunk can be heard from a mile a way.
Ran a diagnositc check in Mode III, and got a code 34 - bad Knock sensor. Don't think this is the cause of all of my troubles, but i did notice a little missfire.
Anyone have an idea?

 

fix what you know, then try to find what you don't know

 

will an after market KS be ok or should i go with a $150 stealership KS.

Excuse me i meant $187.00 from the stealership

 

"aftermartket" that I sell is the bosh which is the OE anyhow

 

So, you're saying that it clunked before AND after your tranny rebuild? If so, then I doubt it's the rebuild that's causing it.

Also, are you saying that you are idling at exactly 750rpm AND you have the TPS set to 1K ohms (fully closed TB)? And it still clunks on you? I don't understand how your tranny can possibly clunk THAT bad (heard from 1 mile away) and only be revving at 750rpm.

I would call the tranny shop if you've done all the things I've said b/c I am out of ideas. It's NOT the KS causing it! I'll guarantee that! There is a way to check the codes in your TCU (Transmission Control Unit). It will flash the P light at you. I think Craig B posted a write up on the org on how to check the codes in your tranny ECU. Search for it and see what you can find.

It's possible that your tranny solenoids are extremely bad. But I still don't see how it can make your tranny clunk that loudly. Good luck!

 

Automatic Transmission Self-Test for 3rd gen Maxima

1 - Start engine and warm it up to normal engine
operating temperature.
2 - Turn ignition switch to "OFF" position.
3 - Set A/T mode switch to "Auto" position.
4 - Set overdrive switch to "ON" position.
5 - Move selector lever to "P" position.
6 - Turn ignition to "ON" position. (Do not start engine.)
7 - Does power indicator lamp come on for about 2 seconds?

If no 2 second light, check A/T control unit.

If power indicator lamp comes on for 2 seconds, do next test.

1 - Move selector lever to "D" position while depressing
brake pedal.
2 - Turn ignition switch to "OFF" position.
3 - Set overdrive switch to "OFF" position.
4 - Turn ignition switch "ON" (Do not start engine) and
wait at least 2 seconds.
5 - Move selector lever to "2" position.
6 - Set overdrive switch to "ON" position.
7 - Move selector lever to "1" position.
8 - Set overdrive switch to "OFF" position.
9 - Depress accelerator pedal fully and release it.
10 - Check power indicator lamp for flashing pattern.

The light will do a series of 10 flashes, watch for a flash
that is longer than the others.

No flashes - Inhibitor switch, overdrive switch or throttle position switch
is disconnected or the A/T control unit is damaged.

All flashes the same - self diagnostics ran OK.

Flash 1 longer - Revolution sensor circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 2 longer - Vehicle speed sensor circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 3 longer - Throttle position sensor circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 4 longer - Shift solenoid valve "A" circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 5 longer - Shift solenoid valve "B" circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 6 longer - Overrun clutch solenoid valve circuit shorted or
disabled.
Flash 7 longer - Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit shorted or
disabled.
Flash 8 longer - Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or
A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged.
Flash 9 longer - Engine speed signal circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 10 longer - Line pressure solenoid valve circuit shorted or
disabled.

 

ok ill check the TCU tommorrow afternoon. thanks for the help.

 

My fsm says to check the "line pressure at idle with selector in "D" range - Refer to PRESSURE TESTING". Ill have to do that also, the tranny shop should have already done this though, correct?

 

Yes.

The KS does not affect this, but still affects ign timing =fuel consumption. Take connector off and install a 0.5MOhm resistor into the connector pins, ECU side. Bypasses the faulty KS, but then no more ping detection...


...see also: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

--->One tst idea: prop your engine with some thick rubber pieces tight in the engine compartment, so it cannot wobble. If this affects your 'clunk' -sound any way, then your engine mounts are too soft, allowing exhaust or some other parts to hit chassis.

 

Sounds like the line pressure is coming on too hard when you put it into drive, like all at once instead of gradually. Get your tranny shop to check it out.

 

I highly recommend NOT to do this unless you know what you are doing. 99% of people out there dont' know what detonation sounds like. Most people don't realize that you can be detonating and NOT be able to actually hear it. The only way I would recommend for someone to do this resistor KS bypass is if they are diagnosing a problem and need to see if their KS is dead. But don't ride around like this for more than a mile b/c you could be doing SERIOUS harm to your motor. Believe me, I know much about the VE and how easy it is to detonate. You'd be surprised how active your KS is on a hot day, even if you run 93 octane. Do not bypass your KS.

 

True to average man.

I suppose smtg is wrong when KS retards ignition; ECU/KS should not be retarding ign all the time.

However, running high octane fuel (95 is lowest here) and clean engine, should not be a problem. Driver has to be 'a substitute KS', to know/hear when/how the ping comes and if so, not load the engine... can be heard. If somebody uses low grade fuel and runnin like crazy = blow u engine fast. That can easily be done with working KS also...

Neither would I trust a tunable turbo to anybody wet behind ears. World has rotated quite a few tens thousands revolutions without knock sensors and/or attached electronics, to me its nonews running without. Question is basically ign timing setting vs octane level.

 

I have a vg though.

 

Ok, did self diagnosis on tranny. all 10 flashes the same, so i guess no problem there.
Couldn't test line pressure today, didn't have the right fitting.
I did notice that when i got from N to D the engine moves quite a bit. think im gonna stiffen up my motor mounts with some polyurethane.

 

Atleast get good mounts. When they break, the metal casing that holds the pin breaks lose and the motor twists in one direction and it hits... metal against metal! You'll see that your motor mounts are bad. But nothing should make this clunk audible a mile away! But I'm sure your mounts are bad.

 

thats my problem i got mounts from autozone.

ok maybe you cant hear it from a mile a way but it shakes the car a lot.
The mount doesn't really twist it just moves up then down.

 

Yes, the motor twists, the pin in the mount will move up and down. Soft new mounts should NOT cause this clunking! If you have new auto zone mounts, then don't upgrade expecting that to fix your problem.

I am talking that BROKEN mounts can hit metal to metal and cause a clunk, especially going from P to R. Usually P to D doesn't cause a bad clunk b/c of the opposite way the motor twists. If you watch the motor while someone shifts it from P to D... then from P to R, you'll see what i'm talking about. But I am out of ideas. Sorry.

 

The slamming is causing it to move vertically. Thats with all three one month old autozone mounts, and one four day old autozone tranny mount.
The clunk doesn't sound like a metal to metal thing. Its more of a build up of pressure, i have a feeling that the line pressure will be way to high when i test it.
Wish i could post a video.
Thanks for your help Aaron92SE.

 

The tranny and ALL its solenoids are computer controlled. Also line pressure solenoid valve.

With bad connector contacts, that control is warped at least. On all ten yr old cars all connectors are oxidized up to a point. Have u cleaned TCU contacts and ALL connectors above and into tranny?

 

when i ran the tcu self diagnosis nothing came up. but no i have neer cleaned the contacts.
The tranny guys said they tried replacing the line pressure solenoid but it didn't help a thing.

 

U can take batt cable off first. Then TCU connector and flood it with electronics contact cleaner (as well as the ECU contacts). Dry well. Then clean and add contact grease on the connector pins sitting on the tranny, and the solenoids connector going into tranny (front). Btw. Do this to all contacts under hood...




see also: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14


----------------------------------------------------------------

The solenoid resistances may be measured, on the tranny side, connector opened:
Its got eight pins, numbered the same as in TCU connector.

Tranny side connector pins from left to right, top row first:
1 | 6 | 8 | 7
5 |W |W |none

Resistances measured to ground:
Line pressure. 1 to gnd = 2.5 -5 ohms
Torque converter. 5 to gnd = 10 -20 ohms
Shift solenoid valve A. 6 to gnd = 20 -40 ohms
Shift solenoid valve B. 7 to gnd = 20 -40 ohms
Timing 8 to gnd = 20 -40 ohms
Fluid Temp. W measured against W = 2.5K Ohms Cold