Does anyone know where we can buy rubber studs to block the rear springs to counter weight transfer for the max when at the track?

 

Jegs, Summit, etc.

But I got mine at Discount Auto aka Advanced. I've seen them at Pep Boys too. Get the rubber spacers and get the front spring lockers if you are serious!

 

Jime said the front spring lockers weren't really worth it.

How much of a difference do you think the rear spring blocks made in the 1/4? A tenth?

 

I searched around on yahoo.com alot and I can't find anything with the combinaisions you mentionned. Hell I even checked for a 92 SE like yours instead of my 95 SE and couldn't find jack. I remember seeing a picture of those things, but it was REALLY long ago.

 

No, they are uninversal. You can usually find them in the spring compressor section of an auto parts store. As for the spring lockers, I don't see why Jime would put these down b/c all they do is keep the front end of your car from rising.

There are WAY too many variables in order for me to say how much you will shave in the 1/4 mile. It could make you slower, or it could make you a full second faster if traction is your problem solely b/c of poor suspension setup.

If you don't want to use those spring lockers I found, use 150-200 lb tensile strength zip ties. You can find them at Home Depot. They are really long. You wrap them around your coils as many times as you can. I'd say put 5-8 of those huge zip ties on each of the front springs.

I haven't used my spring lockers yet, but I will install them when I am ready to go drag racing with my DRs. They are a cheap way to set up your suspension just for the drag strip. I didn't want to go out and buy slicks, I thought I'd try a better suspension before I spend all that money. Right now, I launch without a single chirp on my drag radials. But since my last track visit, I've probably gained 15hp and shaved about 170 lbs off my car. So traction might become a problem. I am doing the spring lockers and the rubber boosters for that added help on the launch.

 

Yeah my 60' sucked when I ran stock last year (15.003@91, 2.264 60'), and now I'm expecting about 100 hp more at the crank so out the window goes the traction.

 

Traction is not an issue. If a 5000 HP dragster can gain traction, you can to. Just set up your suspension and get slicks. Not a problem! 2.26 isn't bad for a stock VQ 5spd. In fact, it's better than 95% of the stock VQ 5spd 60 foot times on normal street tires. I recommend that you get properly sized slicks to give you the gearing you need. And if you still hop the slicks or spin them, then set up your suspension.

If you want to remain with street tires, get the stickiest, nicest street tires money can buy. Drag radials or Toyo T1-S. Then set up the suspension so that your rear does not drop at all and your front does not rise at all. Also, you don't want your motor to move either. So either strap it down with a chain or strap or get some really stiff motor mounts. Or both.

 

I bought PR motor mounts and a FSB. They will get installed when the VQ35 goes in.

I stopped by at Canadian Tire today and bought two sets. They look like "3" or "E" rubber parts, depending on which way you look at them. I tried them and they fit without needing to jack the car.

Each set has two of them, so I'll put one on each side of the springs. That should help.

I'll see what I can do on street tires and go from there. I will definately buy either 22" or 24.5" slicks this summer, as I am sure the clutchnet 6-puck will handle it.

 

If they fit without jacking up the car, they are too small. They will fall out. Each seen several occasions where they don't work if they are too small. Mine are actually so big that you have to jack up the car and then you can BARELY fit them. They are 1 3/4" long. I had to return a set back to the store that I couldn't get to fit that was 2" in length. All the ones I've seen are made of rubber and are shaped like an "H". The coils on your coil spring fit on each side of the "H".

 

Do yours fit between only two rods?

I saw others that were the equivalent of an entire turn (360 degrees). You could choose between 1", 1.5" and 2". But then again, I dont know how it could work if it only blocks between two rods.

The springs have like 5 or 6 entire turns, so does it work even if you only block one turn with a 1.5" spacer?

I have two for each side, piled up on top of one another and there's no way the rear could drop with two of these on top of one another.

Oh, and by the way, do you jack the car up at your place, put the spacers in and drive to the track? Or bring the jack at the track? Ride must be a b*tch.

EDIT: I just checked the back of the package, and it actually says to jack the car! But mine fit without jacking the car. What the f*ck?

Mine look alot like those, but with 3 "arms" instead of 4.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...=si&img=125532

 

Oh man, I've never seen those. But they sound like the wrong size. Make sure they don't fall out.

I just put them in once I'm at the track. I have to put my track wheels on anyway.

Mine are shaped like an H. So you only install 2 per coil spring. The rear will drop a little with mine, but they help raise the rear a lot! The biggest gain will come from keeping the front end from rising. That is really where you'll lose most of the traction.

 

So you have TWO 1 3/4 inch "H" shaped rubber studs PER SPRING? Wow. That rear end must be REAL high.

I'll look into those zip ties for the front. They sell 250 lbs resistance ones I think. Here I was thinking about having someone push down on the springs a little so I can make sure it never extends above the normal height when I install them.

If not, what do those spring lockers you were talking about look like? Ideally I would only install rear rubber studs and front blockers at the track and then take them off, rather than just taking off the rubber studs and keeping the zip ties on 24/7.

BTW, what are you aiming for this year? 13.99?

 

I looked into spring isolators last season when I was disspointed with my 60's in my Acura (CL-S). Did you notice any significant improvement in weight transfer decrease, or did it spin/hop just as bad? The only thing I dont understand is exactly how the rubber keeps the spring from compressing. I mean, one coil pushes down on the rubber and eventually the rubber will not compress any more. At that point wont the rubber transfer the energy to the coil underneath it, and thus still allow the rear end to compress? Does it just reduce the coil travel by absorbing SOME of the energy? And if you eliminated all of the the weight transfer, wouldnt it be nearly improssible for the front springs to unload, thus keeping the tires in better contact? What would the need for spring lockers be if you resolved the weight transfer?

Just curious, tell me if I confused anyone. lol

 

Yes, I have two 1 3/4" H shaped boosters in the rear. It only raises the rear end by 1 3/4". You put two per spring to balance it.

If I can get this ZEMulator project working perfectly in my Maxima, then 13s would be VERY possible if I can get a 60 degree or better night. But it's not looking like I will be able to get this ECU tuned before the weather starts warming up in Florida. So I will just run with what I got and see if I can get 14.2s or better.

 

I haven't run at the track yet with these boosters or spring lockers. The rubber spacer in the rear raises the rear end and eliminates one coil on that spring that can compress. If you installed them, you'll see that the spring can only compress a very tiny bit. That will keep the rear end from dropping a lot. It will still drop a little bit though.

As for the spring lockers, you'll need them b/c the rear boosters won't SOLVE your weight transfer issues. Your front end will still want to rise a lot! So you need to keep the front end from moving in order to keep as much weight over the drive tires as humally possible. The more your front end moves, the less weight is over your front tires and the more you will spin.

I don't know what you mean by this statement. You don't want the front springs to unload. You want them to stay where they are during the launch. If the front end stays still, then you will have the best launch you can ask for. Many serious FWD drag racers use wheelie bars (constantly touch the ground) to keep the car launching flat!

 

What do the front sping lockers look like?

 

What I'm saying Aaron, is that if the rear springs cannot compress at all how is it possible for the front to raise up?

I plan on trying some in the rear and see if that helps at all. I alreayd have dr's, but I was only able to get 60's in themid 2.2's. I need to address the wheelhop, which I'm sure is caused by the spring unloading due to weight transfer. I have stiffer springs & tokico illumina's that should help a little. I know the rear shocks should be set at full firm, but what about the fronts? The Illumina's adjust rebound also, so should those be set at full firm also?

 

JClaw, when you get these, tell me which size you get. I am still on stock suspension and I wheel hop like crazy, so I would like to install these spacers in the back. I have 250lb tensil zipties waiting to go into the front. Also, how bad is it to drive with the spacers and zipties on during normal street driving?

 

For wheel hop get urethane motor mounts. Those kill wheel hop. I don't think the rubber studs will do that much for wheel hop.

 

Still tell me which rear blocks you get.

 

If you want to go the cheapie route the best setup for the rear is to cut those rubber spacers and wrap them individually around the shock rod and hold them in place with a clamp, I had to put 3 of them in on each side to keep the rear end from compressing. Even at that it will still compress a a bit and the front will still rise so doing the front as well will help but the rear is the biggest problem.

I stopped using that setup because I bought the Illumina's and they drastically reduce compression and rebound so I get the same 60' just but setting them both to their stiffest position. Besides it was a major pain each race day installing and removing them and I am getting old and lazy.

 

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...d=si&img=125532

They look alot like that, "E"-shaped. 20$ for 4 at Canadian Rubber

 

Lol. You sound like my dad. I told him not to get a trailer queen as he complains about the trailer, strapping/unstrapping but he wanted to get his 8.9 pass before going back to streetable cars.

How much do you think those rubber studs shaved off your 60' compared to without them on the stock springs? I don't have the money for the Illuminas right now.

Also I remember you posting a pic a while ago, do you still have it?

 

To strap the engine down where would you connect to, to strap it down?

 

I gained almost .2 after a lot of playing around, but that is with slicks. Also you have to do some shaving and cutting to try and get these things round enough to get the clamps on. Also don't use the screw clamps like in the pic they will break eventually, get some T type clamps. iirc I used 3 of these per side.

Its a pain to put them on but it is worth the effort.

The other thing I tried which was easier is to get an old pair of shocks and block them or weld the shaft and just swap the whole thing its much faster.

 

Thanks for the info Jime. So the Illuminas solved the pain in the *** factor and got the same results?

BTW, is that .2 off the 1 /4 mile time or .2 off the 60' ?

What are T-type clamps?

 

Illuminas are da bomb. Unlike the AGX they dampen both compression and rebound. The difference is incredible, if I foget to adjust them after a race I have to stop on the highway and change them, they are that noticable and super rough, so of like having 18-20" wheels.

.2 of the 1/4. BTW it probably won't do that unless you are in the 12 sec bracket, I can only get a 1.98-2.0 N/A but with a 50 shot its a 1.7.

T Clamps, much stronger.
http://www.jupiter-clamps.com/inside_bodyfr1_tb1.htm

 

This past weekend, I tried to install these cheap Advanced Auto spring lockers I bought. They wouldn't fit in the front coil springs. So I returned them and just bought more Home Depot 175lb tensile strength zip ties. I'll just put a bunch of those on the front springs to keep the front end from rising.

I have adjustable Konis, but I can only adjust the rebound. And I have to remove the strut from the car to adjust it, which really sucks. Konis are still the best thing you can get for a 3rd gen. But if Illuminas come out for the 3rd gen and will allow me to adjust them without removing the spring, I will probably get those and sell the Konis.

 

Can you post pics how exactly you zip ties the strut? I will be doing this also with 250lb tensil ties.

 

I don't have any pics. But I can explain it to you. Just simple wrap the zip ties around as many coils and as many times as you can. I'd put several up there in hopes that they don't break and fling off on the track. I think some people put 5-10 zip ties on each spring. You don't put it on the strut, just the spring and wrap it around the coils.

Where did you find 250lb zip ties? I searched and could only find 175lb at Home Depot.

 

I got it on a website.
http://www.buycableties.com/heavy-duty-cable-ties.html

 

I had no problem putting them on and they held well at the track, but when I jacked up my car to remove the slicks they broke, go figure. I had 4 on each side.

 

they have the rubber inserts for the rear springs at pep boys. at least at the on i work at they do.

 

Jime, you put 4 250lb zip ties on the front springs and they broke? I only have 175lb zip ties and I'm planning on putting about 6-8 of them on per spring.

But, thanks SonicDust for the link! They have some CHEAP zip ties. I paid $10 for only 10 175lb cable ties from Home Depot.

UNCDood, I have seen them at Pep Boys and Discount (Advance) Auto Parts in Florida. They are different brands and different sizes. You just gotta find which size will fit in your springs properly.

 

Aaron they worked fine at the track, they only broke when I jacked up the car at the end of the day to remove the slicks.

 

What was the tensile strength of the zip ties you used?

 

Same as yours Aaron the HD specials.

 

Awesome! Thank you!