Couple Q's about General Detailing
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From: Danbury, CT \ Rochester, NY
Couple Q's about General Detailing
Ok, I have a few questions that I've been wondering about for a while -- so here goes.
1. What are the symptoms of "burned" paint, in respect to machine buffering. I have a 10" random orbital buffer that works pretty well for me, but I'd just like to confirm I'm not wrecking my paint.
2. When clay bar-ing, hand wash first, then clay bar, but then should you hand wash again before polishing?
3. When I do go to polish, what kind of pad should I use? I'm going for a swirl remover/light scratch removing polish. Should I apply polish by hand or by my buffer?
Thanks guys, I'm just trying to get the basics down.
Lou
1. What are the symptoms of "burned" paint, in respect to machine buffering. I have a 10" random orbital buffer that works pretty well for me, but I'd just like to confirm I'm not wrecking my paint.
2. When clay bar-ing, hand wash first, then clay bar, but then should you hand wash again before polishing?
3. When I do go to polish, what kind of pad should I use? I'm going for a swirl remover/light scratch removing polish. Should I apply polish by hand or by my buffer?
Thanks guys, I'm just trying to get the basics down.
Lou
1. What are the symptoms of "burned" paint, in respect to machine buffering. I have a 10" random orbital buffer that works pretty well for me, but I'd just like to confirm I'm not wrecking my paint.
You can relax on this one. The buffer you have is not going to have enough power to burn the paint. Burned paint can vary from car to car. When you touch it almost feels like melted plastic. Burned paint can be a result of leaving a buffer (e.g. rotary) on one spot too long or running the machine too fast around an edge.
2. When clay bar-ing, hand wash first, then clay bar, but then should you hand wash again before polishing?
I generally don't wash again after claying.
3. When I do go to polish, what kind of pad should I use? I'm going for a swirl remover/light scratch removing polish. Should I apply polish by hand or by my buffer?
Thanks guys, I'm just trying to get the basics down.
You would need a polishing pad or, in some cases, a cutting pad. Many polishes can be applied by hand but you get better results by using a machine such as a PC or rotary.
You can relax on this one. The buffer you have is not going to have enough power to burn the paint. Burned paint can vary from car to car. When you touch it almost feels like melted plastic. Burned paint can be a result of leaving a buffer (e.g. rotary) on one spot too long or running the machine too fast around an edge.
2. When clay bar-ing, hand wash first, then clay bar, but then should you hand wash again before polishing?
I generally don't wash again after claying.
3. When I do go to polish, what kind of pad should I use? I'm going for a swirl remover/light scratch removing polish. Should I apply polish by hand or by my buffer?
Thanks guys, I'm just trying to get the basics down.
You would need a polishing pad or, in some cases, a cutting pad. Many polishes can be applied by hand but you get better results by using a machine such as a PC or rotary.
2. When clay bar-ing, hand wash first, then clay bar, but then should you hand wash again before polishing?
Here is the best way to do it. I assume you will be waxing if you are claying your car. Go out and buy liquid dawn dishwashing soap. It is acidic enough to burn off the old wax but won't hurt your paint. Wash the car with dawn. Save some soapy water and clay your car using the water as a lubricant. Make sure you do not drop the clay. If you do, throw that piece away. Oh by the way cut the bar into 5 or 6 pieces You need maybe a inch by half inch piece to do an entire car if you fold it often.. Wash the car again to get any pieces of clay off that you may have missed. Chances are you may have some water spots you would not want to set into your new wax job. After you wax use a good brand of car wash until you want to strip the wax off again. You only have to clay twice a year. I hope this helps. Trust me claying makes a big difference so do it well.
Here is the best way to do it. I assume you will be waxing if you are claying your car. Go out and buy liquid dawn dishwashing soap. It is acidic enough to burn off the old wax but won't hurt your paint. Wash the car with dawn. Save some soapy water and clay your car using the water as a lubricant. Make sure you do not drop the clay. If you do, throw that piece away. Oh by the way cut the bar into 5 or 6 pieces You need maybe a inch by half inch piece to do an entire car if you fold it often.. Wash the car again to get any pieces of clay off that you may have missed. Chances are you may have some water spots you would not want to set into your new wax job. After you wax use a good brand of car wash until you want to strip the wax off again. You only have to clay twice a year. I hope this helps. Trust me claying makes a big difference so do it well.
Dawn, Acidic? No.
It won't hurt the paint, but really buy a good car wash shampoo instead
The pH scale
Range Reactive Component
0.0–1.0 Strong acid Hydrochloric acid
1.0-2.9 Acidic Lemon juice
3.0-4.9 Weak Acid Vinegar (Acetic acid) Oxalic, Orange juice
5.0-6.5 Very weak acid Acid rain
6.6-7.3 Neutral Distilled water
Basic
7.3-9.0 Very weak alkali Car wash concentrate ie DAWN
9.1-10.9 Weak alkali Baking soda, Seawater
11.0-12.9 Alkaline Bleach, Ammonia
13.0-14.0 Strong alkali Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
It won't hurt the paint, but really buy a good car wash shampoo instead
The pH scale
Range Reactive Component
0.0–1.0 Strong acid Hydrochloric acid
1.0-2.9 Acidic Lemon juice
3.0-4.9 Weak Acid Vinegar (Acetic acid) Oxalic, Orange juice
5.0-6.5 Very weak acid Acid rain
6.6-7.3 Neutral Distilled water
Basic
7.3-9.0 Very weak alkali Car wash concentrate ie DAWN
9.1-10.9 Weak alkali Baking soda, Seawater
11.0-12.9 Alkaline Bleach, Ammonia
13.0-14.0 Strong alkali Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
[QUOTE=mdsmithers]Dawn, Acidic? No.It won't hurt the paint, but really buy a good car wash shampoo insteadQUOTE]
The purpose is to strip wax..whats the need to use something ..that...wont strip the wax..u lost me
The purpose is to strip wax..whats the need to use something ..that...wont strip the wax..u lost me
Regarding claying.
Specifically, I would not recommend using Dawn while claying, either use a good car wash like Meg's Gold Class/NXT or using the Quick Detailer that came with the bar. Personally I have the Mother's and use the QD supplied. Hope that clears it up.
If you want to use Dawn to strip wax, go for it, that's a whole other argument. Personally, I just don't recommend using it at all.
I understand that families have split on this issue though.
so Lou, what'd you end up doing?
Specifically, I would not recommend using Dawn while claying, either use a good car wash like Meg's Gold Class/NXT or using the Quick Detailer that came with the bar. Personally I have the Mother's and use the QD supplied. Hope that clears it up.
If you want to use Dawn to strip wax, go for it, that's a whole other argument. Personally, I just don't recommend using it at all.
I understand that families have split on this issue though.
so Lou, what'd you end up doing?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,581
From: Danbury, CT \ Rochester, NY
I'll probably be claying with the quick detailer stuff that the bar comes with. This thread was for preparation of when I do get out and fully detail. I'll probably also use the dawn, it makes sense. Thanks for the replys guys, I'll be posting pics in the 4th gen. forum when I do this, but I'll like the thread here. Again thanks
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