4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

What are symptoms of a bad MAF sensor?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 19, 2005 | 02:08 PM
  #1  
athlon omega's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,101
From: New Orleans, LA
What are symptoms of a bad MAF sensor?

My OD problem is gone. Now I'm struggling with rough and decreasing RPMs at stop lights. I changed the throttle position sensor to no avail. I know it's not my spark plugs. I have NGK coppers by the way. I also tried increasing the idle RPM by turning that black plastic screw on thr IACV. Could it be the MAF sensor? Any ideas?
Old Feb 19, 2005 | 02:39 PM
  #2  
mansurxk's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,712
From: New Jersey
i believe a failing or failed MAF will kick your car into safe mode and wont allow you over 2000 rpm or 2500 rpm. if you can get over that RPM range, then its not your MAF. what plugs are you currently running? non-NGK? its possible your coil packs are bad. did you check for codes?
Old Feb 19, 2005 | 02:59 PM
  #3  
maX5's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 748
From: Yonkers, NY
yeah, thats what I was thinking ,when one or more of the coil packs are gone, the car starts shaking at low speeds
Old Feb 19, 2005 | 03:09 PM
  #4  
njmaxseltd's Avatar
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,024
Clean the throttle body
Clean the IACV
Replace the PCV valve
Clean the magnetic tips of both crank position sensors as well as the cam shaft angle sensor.
Old Feb 20, 2005 | 08:33 AM
  #5  
jguillory's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 76
I have similar problems in my 95 auto. Pulled a coolant temp sensor code, and cleared it. For two days the CEL didn't come back on, and the car seemed to run better. But now the light's back on and it's probably time to do the $25 repair.
Old Feb 20, 2005 | 11:07 AM
  #6  
athlon omega's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,101
From: New Orleans, LA
Thanks. I cleaned the throttle body when I replaced the throttle position sensor. I think I will try changing the PCV valve since that's cheap and easy. The car runs fine at and reaches the noraml RPMs when driving. There are no codes from the ECU. I think I still have maybe ten to twelve thousand miles left on the NGK coppers since I changed them about a year and a half ago.
Njmaxseltd, I thought the IACV valve has to give you a code before it requires cleaning. At least that's what happened to me two years ago. Where are the magnetic tips of both crank position sensors as well as the cam shaft angle sensor? I was going to try cleaning the tips of the tps sensor just in case.
Old Feb 20, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #7  
athlon omega's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,101
From: New Orleans, LA
I cleaned the IACV and adjusted it. I also replaced the PCV valve. The problem is still there. Can someone tell me where the crank position sensor and cam shaft angle sensor are located?
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #8  
Aidan2474's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 72
Maf

I had one of the worst times with my '96 I30, the symptoms I had were
1. Seemingly ran fine at times then outta nowhere it would sputter and stammer.
2. if the sputtering and stammering occurred while I was at, or coming to a stop, it would stall.
3. I was able to drive the car over 2000 RPM's, most times thats the only way I could keep it running.

I had earlier taken off the air box and put on a K&N cone filter, sounded cool for a while , but apparently I ended up having to change my MAF. Nobody could figure out my problem, then I took it to the dealer who figured it out and after replacing it and putting back on the original air box it runs puuuurrrfect.

I tried looking at all different problems, but to no avail. Indeed it was the MAF.

Hope this helps
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 12:47 PM
  #9  
athlon omega's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,101
From: New Orleans, LA
Originally Posted by Aidan2474
I had one of the worst times with my '96 I30, the symptoms I had were
1. Seemingly ran fine at times then outta nowhere it would sputter and stammer.
2. if the sputtering and stammering occurred while I was at, or coming to a stop, it would stall.
3. I was able to drive the car over 2000 RPM's, most times thats the only way I could keep it running.

I had earlier taken off the air box and put on a K&N cone filter, sounded cool for a while , but apparently I ended up having to change my MAF. Nobody could figure out my problem, then I took it to the dealer who figured it out and after replacing it and putting back on the original air box it runs puuuurrrfect.

I tried looking at all different problems, but to no avail. Indeed it was the MAF.

Hope this helps

Thanks. The thing that is confusing is that car runs fine at even 1000 RPMs. I can be sitting at a light and the sputtering or stammering occurs not all the time but frequently. It's like something yanking the RPMs down and my gauge lights dim also. It hasn't stalled yet. I usually putting in neutral when I'm at a light and the problems goes away even though it's at the same RPM. How much was the MAF sensor? I might try going to that junkyard and try to get that part.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
-ReLLiK-
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
4
Apr 29, 2016 06:25 PM
ballerchris510
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
9
Sep 10, 2015 09:35 PM
lux97Max
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
1
Sep 4, 2015 05:42 PM
dcardello
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
Sep 3, 2015 11:44 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:22 AM.