why is my maxima so slow
why is my maxima so slow
Hey i was just wondering why my max is so slow. I have a 96 max auto with custom cat back and cold air intake and i ran a 16.2 is that right? And my check engin light is on cause of the knock sensor and also i heard that if the check engin light is on it robs horse power? if so how much horse power?it would be a great help to know this.
thanks
thanks
Knock sensor isn't your only problem if the CEL is on; KS is a ghost code and doesn't cause the CEL to trip. But you're right, a bad KS causes a loss in power. Check the stickies for how much of a loss.
~THT
~THT
Originally Posted by theunderwear27
i use the lowest that is all i can aford right now
Running 87 octane regular will be a big part of it. Read the stickies about why our cars need premium 91+ octane. Also it is normal to run bad times the first time to the track. You mods also don't give a ton of power either. Get a y pipe and see your times fall after you replace that KS and use premium.
Originally Posted by theunderwear27
Hey i was just wondering why my max is so slow. I have a 96 max auto with custom cat back and cold air intake and i ran a 16.2 is that right? And my check engin light is on cause of the knock sensor and also i heard that if the check engin light is on it robs horse power? if so how much horse power?it would be a great help to know this.
thanks
thanks
Jk man....You might be in safe mode depending on what code ur pullin so kinda take it from there....u might get up in the 15's
ok lets see i had 7 codes:
11-02 Revolution Sensor
01-03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
02-05 Idle Speed Control
03-04 Knock Sensor
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
11-04 Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission)
01-02 Mass Air Flow Sensor
-------------
after i reset the only one i had was:
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
i figure my air temp sensor is bad, cuz i used jack with my cold air intake alot(another ebay too-good-to-be-true( i ended up cutting a hole in my inner fender))
well im relieved that my knock sensor isnt back, and im pretty sure its not going to because in a test it turn about 7k. as for some things i have a reason, for example: the improper shifting to 2nd is my fault, and the maf sensor fell off which would cause the maf error. what do you guys think about those other errors that went away. i.e. the first four on the list?? thanks alot guys. my car seems to be a bit quicker---ill test it at the drags this weekend.
11-02 Revolution Sensor
01-03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
02-05 Idle Speed Control
03-04 Knock Sensor
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
11-04 Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission)
01-02 Mass Air Flow Sensor
-------------
after i reset the only one i had was:
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
i figure my air temp sensor is bad, cuz i used jack with my cold air intake alot(another ebay too-good-to-be-true( i ended up cutting a hole in my inner fender))
well im relieved that my knock sensor isnt back, and im pretty sure its not going to because in a test it turn about 7k. as for some things i have a reason, for example: the improper shifting to 2nd is my fault, and the maf sensor fell off which would cause the maf error. what do you guys think about those other errors that went away. i.e. the first four on the list?? thanks alot guys. my car seems to be a bit quicker---ill test it at the drags this weekend.
nooo and it is a pain in the a$$ from the looks of it. ive skimmed a couple of how to guides, but nothin really in depth. ill do it myself and have my dads friend, whos a mechanic help me. also, how much are they?
Originally Posted by theunderwear27
ok lets see i had 7 codes:
11-02 Revolution Sensor
01-03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
02-05 Idle Speed Control
03-04 Knock Sensor
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
11-04 Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission)
01-02 Mass Air Flow Sensor
-------------
after i reset the only one i had was:
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
i figure my air temp sensor is bad, cuz i used jack with my cold air intake alot(another ebay too-good-to-be-true( i ended up cutting a hole in my inner fender))
well im relieved that my knock sensor isnt back, and im pretty sure its not going to because in a test it turn about 7k. as for some things i have a reason, for example: the improper shifting to 2nd is my fault, and the maf sensor fell off which would cause the maf error. what do you guys think about those other errors that went away. i.e. the first four on the list?? thanks alot guys. my car seems to be a bit quicker---ill test it at the drags this weekend.
11-02 Revolution Sensor
01-03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
02-05 Idle Speed Control
03-04 Knock Sensor
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
11-04 Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission)
01-02 Mass Air Flow Sensor
-------------
after i reset the only one i had was:
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
i figure my air temp sensor is bad, cuz i used jack with my cold air intake alot(another ebay too-good-to-be-true( i ended up cutting a hole in my inner fender))
well im relieved that my knock sensor isnt back, and im pretty sure its not going to because in a test it turn about 7k. as for some things i have a reason, for example: the improper shifting to 2nd is my fault, and the maf sensor fell off which would cause the maf error. what do you guys think about those other errors that went away. i.e. the first four on the list?? thanks alot guys. my car seems to be a bit quicker---ill test it at the drags this weekend.
Personally, I think you should wait a little bit longer for the reset. I don't believe the ecu checks everything out all the time. Some codes make come back hundreds of miles later. For instance I had an o2 sensor code and some evap codes pop up. I replaced my o2 sensor and reset the ecu and nothing came back. Four hundred miles later I got the evap codes again. Also, I recommend not racing your car around since you can't afford to put the correct gasoline in the car.
Harder you step on the pedal the more gas you burn/waist. I don't know about your max, but mine says on the fuel door to use premium gas ONLY. From what I read, putting in lower grade gasoline can ruin the knock sensor, which would make sense IMO. Since your money is so low that you can't afford an additional 20 cents a gallon I'd recommend looking for a new coolant temp sensor first. Also make sure your cold air intake is installed properly, are the two sensors connected to it (air temp & maf) ?
Harder you step on the pedal the more gas you burn/waist. I don't know about your max, but mine says on the fuel door to use premium gas ONLY. From what I read, putting in lower grade gasoline can ruin the knock sensor, which would make sense IMO. Since your money is so low that you can't afford an additional 20 cents a gallon I'd recommend looking for a new coolant temp sensor first. Also make sure your cold air intake is installed properly, are the two sensors connected to it (air temp & maf) ?
yeah ok you got me there man ill start putting premium in it and see if i can get my hands on some new sensors. also its not because my family is poor or anything its just im 15, i dont have a job, and i have to conserve my money. thanks guys
Am I reading this correctly-
Your 15 and your already racing? WoW.
Your 15 and your already racing? WoW.
I have a 96 max auto with custom cat back and cold air intake and i ran a 16.2 is that right?
yeah ok you got me there man ill start putting premium in it and see if i can get my hands on some new sensors. also its not because my family is poor or anything its just im 15, i dont have a job, and i have to conserve my money. thanks guys
hahahah i know. 15. hahahha maaayn. ok as for the *** that said i was abusing my car....ok what you have never turned 7k? do you drive like a granny or what? just becuase your drive your **** slow doesnt mean you have to critcise me
ok baxtel jeez i already said ill start putting premium in it, and then ill get back to you. i looked for those dynos on the different octanes but couldnt find them. can any one give me a link? thanks
ps ninos maxima...saving...thats hard. ill start to save when i run out of little things to buy. lol jk
ps ninos maxima...saving...thats hard. ill start to save when i run out of little things to buy. lol jk
that is a lot of codes... ....alot lol, anyways, Good luck fixin all that stuff..and even tho all u can afford right now is the cheap gas...at least put mid in...thats what I put in mine... I know premium costs alot.
automatic(the only reason i typed automatic is because it wouldnt let me post becuuse my orignal message(auto why) was too short, so here i am writing a huge write up on a simple question as to if my car is and auto or standard. hmm its automatic
Originally Posted by theunderwear27
ok lets see i had 7 codes:
11-02 Revolution Sensor
01-03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
02-05 Idle Speed Control
03-04 Knock Sensor
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
11-04 Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission)
01-02 Mass Air Flow Sensor
-------------
after i reset the only one i had was:
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
i figure my air temp sensor is bad, cuz i used jack with my cold air intake alot(another ebay too-good-to-be-true( i ended up cutting a hole in my inner fender))
well im relieved that my knock sensor isnt back, and im pretty sure its not going to because in a test it turn about 7k. as for some things i have a reason, for example: the improper shifting to 2nd is my fault, and the maf sensor fell off which would cause the maf error. what do you guys think about those other errors that went away. i.e. the first four on the list?? thanks alot guys. my car seems to be a bit quicker---ill test it at the drags this weekend.
11-02 Revolution Sensor
01-03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
02-05 Idle Speed Control
03-04 Knock Sensor
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
11-04 Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission)
01-02 Mass Air Flow Sensor
-------------
after i reset the only one i had was:
04-01 Intake Air Temp Sensor
i figure my air temp sensor is bad, cuz i used jack with my cold air intake alot(another ebay too-good-to-be-true( i ended up cutting a hole in my inner fender))
well im relieved that my knock sensor isnt back, and im pretty sure its not going to because in a test it turn about 7k. as for some things i have a reason, for example: the improper shifting to 2nd is my fault, and the maf sensor fell off which would cause the maf error. what do you guys think about those other errors that went away. i.e. the first four on the list?? thanks alot guys. my car seems to be a bit quicker---ill test it at the drags this weekend.
well, you should get all of those problems fixed, get a tune-up, only use 91+ octane in your car, then get back to us on your track times
Originally Posted by enjoyincubus504
also, do you only use premium gasoline? if not then that robs u of some power
Peoples' habits sure affect demand. When gas prices first became high, I'd see premium only 11 cents more than regular, because of elasticity of demand. That has really changed. Today, I have seen premium going for as much as 27 cents more than regular. Must be fun to be a gasoline retailer, it's very easy to take advantage of people. It's amazing how for many years premium was exactly 20 cents more than regular, whether regular was $0.769 or $1.499--just shows how artificial that price really is.
Originally Posted by theunderwear27
i use the lowest that is all i can aford right now
regular 87 [1.77 * 16gal. = $28.32]
premium 93 [1.99 * 16gal. = $31.84]
difference of $3.52
Say for some miracle prices were $1.60 [1.60 * 16gal. = $25.60] . Even with a ridiculous price of $1.60, if you just shed the extra $5, you can fill with premium. You spend more than $5 easily on food in one sitting. Just let this be something to make you fill up with the good stuff after you get everything fixed. I'm a college student and I work a crappy job, but I will skip lunch a couple days of the week, knowing that it will cover the 'extra' money paid on gas. Good luck. and USE PREMIUM.
Originally Posted by Frank Fontaine
My understanding is that with a faulty knock sensor the car is retarded anyway, so all the premium in the world is simply burned out the tailpipe, even worse that on a usual day.
Peoples' habits sure affect demand. When gas prices first became high, I'd see premium only 11 cents more than regular, because of elasticity of demand. That has really changed. Today, I have seen premium going for as much as 27 cents more than regular. Must be fun to be a gasoline retailer, it's very easy to take advantage of people. It's amazing how for many years premium was exactly 20 cents more than regular, whether regular was $0.769 or $1.499--just shows how artificial that price really is.
Peoples' habits sure affect demand. When gas prices first became high, I'd see premium only 11 cents more than regular, because of elasticity of demand. That has really changed. Today, I have seen premium going for as much as 27 cents more than regular. Must be fun to be a gasoline retailer, it's very easy to take advantage of people. It's amazing how for many years premium was exactly 20 cents more than regular, whether regular was $0.769 or $1.499--just shows how artificial that price really is.
^^^^ i was just about to ask the same question, I never could run at my local track tell last summer. And driving at 15 with out a parent ?? I mean I use to do it but I never left my subdivision, also hey how about you get a working permint and get a little part time job. You could work on the weekends or once or twice a week. Atleast then you would have some money
Automatic. I'd use Premium gas for now on, yeah it's expensive but if you're planning on speeding then I'd use what's recommended. Also someone said you should take their advice on saving your money. You should, dont bother racing and spending money on mods. Save your money for a couple years and then you'll be happy to find plenty of mods that you can afford.




