I have a 1996 Maxima GLE, the car does not start...it ran before a small accident it had the other day involving the front driver's side. The damage is not severe, wasn't even enough to damage the side rails or any mechanical parts...the car has a new battery as well after the accident. You put the key in, turn it as far as it goes before attempting to start it, then turn it once more to start and the radio, clock, and air controls turn off, dash warning lights stay lit (as normal) and the car does nothing. When the key is turned back to 'run' the radio, clock, and air controls power up again. Any ideas? Does this car have a fuel shut off? Car was 100% fine before accident...thanks in advance for ideas.

 

check fuses for fuel pump

 

All fuses ok, that's why I was curious of a possible fuel shut off switch?

 

all I can think of is the fuses...thats it man sry

 

any more ideas?

 

Your starter or the solinoid(sp?) is shot.

 

check the fuse box on that side, make sure you dont see any loose or split wires or somthing that may have gotten jolted in the accident, if not then most likely starter problem, theres a fuel pump relay but no idea where its located dealer told me on the firewall but i have yet to find one on my car but if its not even clicking then it shouldnt have anything to do with that
good luck

--Dan

 

Some of the accessories DO turn off when the key is turned to 'Start' and that's perfectly normal. Your issue is that the starter is not getting power. This can be a low battery or damaged wiring.

The fuel cutoff won't cause the problem you are describing, however check it still because when you fix the starter issue the fuel cutoff may show itself as a second problem. Easiest way to check it is listen carefully for it running for a couple of seconds when you first turn the key to Engine Run (the last position before 'start')

Firstly, don't get 'sloppy'. You wouldn't be the first person to spend hours disgnosing a no-start condition only to realise that you forgot to press the clutch/brake/be in park when you tried to start... I know it sounds silly, but it DOES happen.


Secondly - the first thing you need to know is "is the solenoid getting the start signal?" so hook up a multimeter on volts in the DCV range (you're looking for about 12.5v) between the small red wire on the solenoid and a GOOD ground. (I always test my ground by connecting my negative probe solidly, setting the multimeter to Ohms and touching the positive probe to another part of the car's body. If there is continuity then I know I have picks a good ground poiunt for my negative probe.)

You should see 12.5v at the solenoid + connector when you turn the key. If not then you have to troubleshoot that first, for example it could be a bad park/neutral switch signal or any of the other safety interlocks on the starter circuit (for 5spd it could be the clutch switch)


If you DO see voltage at the starter solenoid then you need to go over the whole starting system.

Whenever I see this problem on a car I always go through this checklist;
- Remove the battery connections (negative first) and clean the posts/clamps with a battery brush, then leave them off for now. If you have a multimeter then measure the voltage. You should get approx 12.5 Volts if the battery is charged. Anything in the 11-12 volt range is probably a low battery that just needs to be charged. significantly lower, ie 6v or 8v could indicate in internal short in the battery.
If you have a battery charger then start charging the battery. If you charge it overnight and it does not read approx 12.5 volts after the charger has been disconnected then take the battery to an auto parts store for testing. (new batteries do can be bad too)

- Find the earth strap that goes from the engine block at/near the starter to the body of the car. Follow the cable end to end to ensure it is not damaged. Remove the bolts and sand the mating surfaces for a good connection. Be VERY careful here - if there is connection problem with this *big* earth cable cable then it's possible for the starter to try to run the negative power through one of the smaller earth connections, and that will burn up the harness quicker than you can say; "Oh ****!" (ask me how I know! I dare you!)

- Next follow the big fat battery negative to where it connects to the body. Follow the cable end to end to ensure it is not damaged. Remove, sand and reconnect.

- If you really wanna go all the way, remove the starter and sand down the mating surfaces on the starter and the block and reinstall.

- Next find the big fat red cable on the starter. Follow the cable end to end to ensure it is not damaged. Remove/sand/reconnect.

- Find the small red wire on the solenoid. Follow the cable as far as you can to ensure there is no obvious damage. It'll disappear into the loom so you won't be able to trace it too far.


Assuming you have done all the above first, so you've establed the the wiring and connections are all good.
- Now reconnect the battery terminals and try to fire it up.
--- If it starts then w00t.
--- If you hear the solenoid click once then the battery may be low so you need to charge it overnight or jumpstart the car (or bumpstart if it's a stick).
--- If the solenoid clicks repeatedly then the battery is very low. Charge it.
--- if the solenoid still does not even click then either the battery is EXTREMELY low (charge overnight), or you are not getting power to the starter solenoid / solenoid is bad and that needs more precise diagnosis - you could take the starter to an auto parts store for testing.

Further possible causes (especially related to an accident) may be a bad signal from the park/neutral switch if it's an auto.

 

Thanks a million for the detailed entry Scruit, I wil ltry those things after the rain here in the South leaves Thursday....I may go ahead and get a new starter/solenoid anyhow for it, it has 196k on the car and over 100k on the starter, it may have gone out by chance during the accident as someone said earlier by chance. I'll post back when I get it running (hopefully this weekend) to let you know what it was! So, with it almost having 200k on it, any maintenance that should be done coming up that anyone can think of? It is an auto car, how do I check the park/neutral switch and where is it? I have taken it out of gear/in gear/park several times to try to start it. Thanks guys for your help.

 

(This information is only of value to you if you have determined that turning the key does NOT give you +12v at the small red wire on the starter solenoid...)


The Park/Neutral switch (speaking generally here as I don't have the max diagram right here) should provide 2 fucntions... I is to identify the transmission gear position to the ECU, and the other is to ensure that the starter will only operate when the trans is in P or N.

Try starting in each gear... Keep your foot on the brake! If the ParkNeutral switch was knocked out of alignment then you may find the car will allow you to start in R or D. If that is the case then you need to adjust that switch back to specs.

Also jsut do a sanity check like make sure the P/N switch didn't come unplugged or have it's wiring damaged.

Use a multimeter and a haynes manual to test the switch is working (you should be able to can get a haynes manual from your local library)

If that all checks out then you need to follow the curcuit in the haynes manual and test for any disconnects or shorts caused by the accident.