Hi to all:

Just bought yesterday my first decent car: '95 Maxima GLE 5spd. 87K miles.

Car is in good conditions but as a DIY I am asking for suggestion on basic tune up questions.

Spark plugs- Brand? Where to buy? (do i need cables?)

Oil to buy - 5w30 ? 10w30? (I live in NJ/NYC area) and it gets really cold here as well as really hot.

Zmax System- ANyone had experience before with this? works well in my previous car

Ignitions parts? Any? Brand?

Any other part you guys can suggest to be changed before I star looking at mods (Y-pipe and CAI) ????

Thanks a lot for your time and help in advance

 

Spark plugs- Brand? Where to buy? (do i need cables?)

Look through here for spark plugs and coils (no cables)
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=254238

Oil to buy - 5w30 ? 10w30? (I live in NJ/NYC area) and it gets really cold here as well as really hot.

5W30 - brand and type (synth/dino) is up to you and will get a lot of different responses. From what I have seen, most 'round here run Mobil1 synthetic or other synthetic - I do and have had no problems since the switch >75K miles ago.

Zmax System- ANyone had experience before with this? works well in my previous car

Can't help you on this one...

Ignitions parts? Any? Brand?

OEM unless you are tunin' - search for specifics via the "poor man's forums search engine" here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748

Any other part you guys can suggest to be changed before I star looking at mods (Y-pipe and CAI) ????

Follow your service manual for maintenance issues but right off the bat, since you already have 80K+ "unknown" miles I'd start draining and replacing every fluid I could get my hands on, perform a tune up, change the belts and yank your codes to see what's what.

 

I really have nothing to add after tofor's great post.

Well, a tiny bit Stay with OEM for spark plugs. A set of 6 platiniums will cost you $75 give or take. For oil go with 5w-30, as per manual. If going with a synthetic you can't do wrong with Mobil 1, and if staying with dino Castrol GTX is well rated.

I also echo the sentiment of changing all fluids you can get your hands on. Enjoy your car!

 

Just out of curiosity, was your GLE a 5spd conversion?

 

I suspect the spark plugs have been changed already and may not require changing. However, you should take one out and determine what kind they are - should be either NGK platinum or NGK copper.

It would appear that you don't have the work history on the car. Get a pH test of the radiator coolant done to determine if it needs changing. As a previous poster suggested check the ATF fluid.

Have the brakes been done?

Determine status of PCV valve and fuel filter. What is condition of air filter? Change if required or hold off if you are going CAI route.

 

Just guessing here but OP probably has a GXE unless he bought it from a tuner - probably just a typo...

 

My bad, if its not a 5-speed conversion, you might want to change the transaxle fluid as well.

 

by the way, how much did you pay for the car?

 

just bought the car? congrats, you should love the car. it's got VQ in it.

tune-ups?

spark plugs, tofar did a great job, just make sure you get the ngk plugs, they are factory specified. plats or copper is up to you, plats last longer, that's about it.

oil? that's the first thing you should do, since your car has decent milage, you can bascially stick with 5w-30's, but as you stack more milage past 100k miles, you have to start thinking about doing the 10w-30's. also, mobile 1 synthetic is the way to go. it's the best oil you'll get. "DONOT" get synthetic blend or any hybrid blending that comes already in a packaged bottle. only use fully regular or fully synthetic oil. one important issue, when you decide to go synthetic, you'll have to do it in ratio increments. our crank case takes in about 4 (quart) bottles in each oil change. this is how you should do your oil change:

1) for the first oil change, use 3 bottles of regular oil, and 1 bottle of synthetic (must be same brand and same viscosity reading)

2)after three thousand miles, increase sythetic ratio: 2 bottles regular and 2 synthetic.
3)next oil change, 1 regular, and 3 synthetic.
4)next oil change, all synthetic. and after this, only use synthetic. don't go back to regular, once you go synthetic, you shouldn't go back to regular due to crank case seal issues.

ignition? don't worry about it. our maxima's come with good ignition system already.

the heck with zmax. use seafoam:

1) day before the oil change, seafoam the intake throttle, manifold, and brake booster.
2) day for the oil change, half a bottle of that seafoam in the crank case, run the heck outta that car for about 20-30 minutes. then quickly drain the oil out. and proceed with regular oil change procedures.
3) after the oil change, put 1/4 bottle seafoam in the fuel tank with half a tank of gasoline, and run a few redlines.
4) results in a much smoother drive in my opinion

also, you definitely want to check/replace the following:

air filter
fuel filter (must be replaced after seafoaming the gasoline tank for the first time)
pcv valve
belt wear
all fluid should be flushed

get all these things doe first. then you're in the safe zone.

 

What's with the recommendation of phasing in the synthetic oil? I have never heard of that before, WTF. Why would anyone bother doing this? Just switch over.

 

From what I have read/heard, the phased change over *may* help ease the engine seals' transition to a new oil formulation. Some folks, especially on high-ish mileage cars like the OP's, have claimed to have noticed leaks when changing over to synthetic in one shot and recommend the phased approach. However, I have not been able to confirm that this is *always* the case nor have I had any issues with my change over - all at once. YMMV (dramatically) but if you are concerned, why not?

Full disclosure: after 75K miles since my changeover I have a small leak in the upper oil pan where the RTV sealent is but it'd be tough to convince me that the leak is due to the changeover over just high miles (111K)...

 

Thanks guys... that was a very warm welcome to the maxima club.

I pay 4800 for the car, tho now tha you guys mention it I think is a weird combination between an SE and GLE... leather package.. GLE wheels, rear spoiler, Auto climate, Bose system... i dunno... i'll post pics soon.

I'll have the codes pulled and get back to you guys...just did got NONE

Mobil1 5W-30 Full Synthetic seems to be the winner
ngk.com --> ngk double platinum seem to be the winner
coils??? where can i get them?
M/T Oil ...should I do this?

 

Some SE models came with all the fancy stuff, so chances are it's a "souped up" SE. Unless the previous owner was into modding his car, there is no possible way a GLE would have come in stick. All GLEs are autos.

 

You named it then... I own a "souped up" SE.

don't hate me GLE owners cuz mine is stick....hahahaha...lol j/k

 

You might as well change the transaxle gear oil, but ensure you specify GL4 75W90 or 80W90, NOT GL5, as it will damage your transmission synchros from what I've read. If you aren't into changing it yourself take it to a lube joint. The gear oil replacement is quite inexpensive. I recently paid Cdn$29.99 plus tax at a Mr. Lube on my 95 SE.

And by the way research a reputable, reasonable place that has experience in servicing 4th Gen Maximas, if you aren't mechanically inclined, and stay away from the Nissan dealerships unless money is no object.

 

Money is definitely an object but I am quite handy tho not a PRO Mechanic with cars in general. It's amazing what you can do with a pair of Rhino Ramps and the right tools... heheehe... oh and Haynes Manual..include that one too...

 

Seems like you have all your questions answered, just saying welcome. I own a lil souped up SE myself. Enjoy it, the VQ is somethin special.

 

Can we see some pics of your new ride? I just got a '95 SE as well and I'd like to compare.

 

Trust me guys as soon as I can get a better day out I take some pics and post them. Got to pick up my dig cam from a friend tho...this is what happen when you lend things...you dont' have them when you need them the most.

 

for tranny oil, there is a guy in the Group Deal forums selling amsoil synthetics at dealer cost, i just recieved mine from him, great customer service. its Amsoil synthetic 80w90 GL4, i got a gallon, and 1 quart(best way to get lowest price) for 30 bucks shipped.

 

coils? you don't really need to replace your coils unless upon observation, you notice build up of rust or oxidation at the connector part. your coils should be no problem for the car. our cars come with direct ignition injection system. unlike honda's we don't upgrade or replace coils unless they are physically damaged or causing ignition problems. also, your synthetic choice would be great, but phasing the oil is the way to go. i got 4 maxima's, and i didn't phase my synthetic on one of them, now i got a oil leak somewhere that i can't really find. the leak is very small, like a drop or two a day. dunno if it's the synthetic conversion that caused it, but it psychologically make me think it. it wouldn't hurt to phase the oil. my engineering teacher told me that the synthetic oil are chemically enhanced, and they are of smaller particles. how does it cause my oil leak, i really don't know, but from experience, phase your oil please.