Hello,I am a new 5th gen Maxima owner. Just purchased 2000 GLE with 80K miles on it.It runs great.However,I soon discovered that my Max was suffering from the dreaded but all too common lower radiator support rot.Just completed the support replacement today in my driveway for under 300 dollars using a OEM Nissan replacement parts.Going to try and attach pictures.Took a total of about 8 hours from start to finish and new part fit perfectly and all holes were in alignment.

 

CRizz, nice work. I plan on doing the same to mine soon. Was it all bolt on?

 

Even here in southern california mine has surface rust.
Nissan really cheaped out on paint there.

 

Has several spot welds and is bolted as well.

Looks good OP.

 

The old part had approx 25 spot welds and bolts.New part installed with bolts and a few light welds along seams.Solid as a rock.

 

I would hit that whole area up with epoxy paint.
It's like jb weld in a can. Ultra smooth finish.
Not even atom bomb can get through epoxy paint. I did my rear suspension with it.

 

Great work! I need to do the same on my car, but finding time is the issue.

 

Me too. My discovery happened tonight..... and I'm now wondering how long it's been like this. Been reading threads....seems popular, thanks for posting pictures, that was very helpful.

Are these the three parts to purchase? Want to make sure I buy the right stuff. Here are the part #'s I found:

Lower Tie bar 625302Y000 #5
R support panel 625205Y500 #4
L support panel 625215Y500 #3

http://www.oemautopartsandaccessorie...f598ba2aab674/

 

This one says SUPPORT-RADIATOR CORE,LOWER
http://www.courtesyparts.com/62530m-...957_2070_2072&

Looks same as lower tie bar

Better to just replace the whole diagram if there's spot rust on the other parts?

What's a fair price to pay someone for labor if I buy the parts? Per hour or job

 

Mine probably should be done as well but I'm just going to let it ride for now. Since I've learned how to fight rust instead of replacing it I might just be fine for years. I lube the snot out of rust with fluid film and rust goes nowhere in my humble opinion. As long as rust is not too far gone I'm gonna use the stuff. My wheel wells were getting progress on me each salty winter and last fall I put it on and that rust on my wheel wells stopped in its tracks. I'm sold on it. I'm doing more studies with it but I am more than impressed.

 

Anybody try the great rust stopper POR 15? I've used it on an old Datsun rebuild project and it's wonderful.

 

Never heard of Fluid film, I might have to look into that. We had an old Family friend who owned a body shop for over 40 years before retiring last year. He used to tell me to spray WD-40 in rust prone area like wheel wells & the inside bottom of doors to help slow rusting. The problem with that is WD-40 doesn't seem to last long so you have to remember to re-apply often.

 

If anyone could chime in here I'd really appreciate it. Do you need #'s 3&4 too? or just #5? I'm only replacing the lower rad support, but I can't tell if 3&4 will get damaged when removing the old rusted #5.

 

I dont know exactly but I believe its just the lower part. My reasoning is that it would be cheaper to buy the entire radiator support than the 3 parts you listed. If (or when) it was me that's what I would do

 

I've used por15 and I think it works well but I live in the rust belt and I'm sick and tired of it and due to the fact rust gets everywhere, por15 is hard to apply well on certain areas hard to reach, etc. Fluid film can get anywhere u can wipe, brush, or spray. For underbody unpainted or unseen I think it's great. At least so far. I don't care as much for hiding a little rust as I do stopping it. If all goes well I will never have rusty rocker panels and doors, etc.

Oh, btw, the U.S. navy and ocean vessels use it due to salty environments.

 

my 01 is suffering from rust in this same area. please post the part numbers if you find out what's needed for the entire area.
thanks

 

Go to courtesyparts.com or nissanpartsasap.com and look for the lower radiator support.
All the part numbers/parts you need will be found there.

 

thanks...will do

not too bad for the entire assy
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...2070_2072.html

 

I'm gonna be doing this to my car soon as well. Does anyone have a diagram of where the spot welds are located if you're doing just the lower support? I've heard theres about 6 on each side but I can't find anything that shows their locations and I'd like to know before I start.

 

You'll see them all when you take the bumper off.
Two bolts and a bunch of spot welds.

 

Ok thanks. One other question, are the tow hooks safe to use with the new one just bolted on? I ask because I don't weld and would like to have it welded back by a shop. Or maybe I should just put the bumper and lights back on and drive it down like that, then just remove them in the parking lot

 

If this helps anyone, the best price I found for the lower rad support (genuine OEM part) was ebay 181.07. Compared ~10 places online many had lower prices but once you tossed in shipping ebay guy was the cheapest.

 

How do you differentiate genuine OEM? Or do they just say it? Also could you provide a link please.

 

Yeah it just says it. I found a lot of non-OEM parts that were WAY cheaper, but upon the advice of the forums here, everyone says that's a big no-no. So all the prices I compared were genuine OEM.

Part # is in the links I posted above.....here it is again:
625302Y000

quick ebay search:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSANINFINITI-625302Y000-GENUINE-OEM-LOWER-TIE-BAR-/171926138997?vxp=mtr

 

That's why I buy from dealerships.

Courtesy or tri-city typically when I want to make sure they aren't just claiming OEM elsewhere.

 

About how many bolts are holding the LR support onto the body of the car. Im trying to salvage one from the junkyard here thats in great condition.

 

None? You have to drill out the pinch welds. It's not worth it. Cut out the junkyard one and weld it in with some supporting plates.

 

 

Aren't the six bolts at the tow hooks technically supporting it? I replaced mine in the fall. If anything I'd think those were providing more support than the welds. I didn't even reweld mine (not recommended) but so far so good.

 

So there are bolts holding it in place, I just wanted to know just in case I have to replace mine later on down the line, dont want any surprises

 

Mine's just started to rust. Hopefully I won't have to deal with it for a couple of years.

 

yeah mine has minor rust spots not too bad yet though

 

So when removing the lower tie bar you drill out how many "spot welds"? Would popping a dozen or so rivets in each side work? How many rivets would you need and what size rivets?

 

If the thing just begun rusting you wanna get it replaced immediately ASAP!!!! It will cause so many repairs. When you take the thing in for service what the mechanic does is applies almost 2 tons of force right on the round nipple located right behind the area underneath which could crack the thing. That nipple is a jack point that all garages use.

 

My lower rad support just split half, the moment the rust specs hit the floor my wallet cried a little bit.

 

Are you going to replace it? the support on my 2001 GLE is badly rusted. So I'm going to go ahead and replace it.


I've sifted the threads about this and have decided to just replace the lower Radiator core by drilling out the spot welds then replacing welds with rivets.


I may make some other mods to close up the holes so it won't rust again.

 

Would you have any detail pictures of the welds you did ? What type of welder did you use ?


Also for the new support has any one ever thought to spray expanding foam inside the new support ?

 

Guys I’m sure many of of you young guys don’t know who I am. I left Ga in 2014. I’m now back I live in Lawrenceville Ga. Very close to Archer High School. I don’t own a Maxima but that don’t mean I don’t love you beautiful Maxima people. I’m back I’m old lol. Won’t do the things I did back in 2002. But I can definitely turn a wrench!! God bless all you

 

I had a body shop replace mine back in 2011. Cost about $800 for the job. I'm surprised Nissan did not recall these cars over that issue. Could become dangerous.

 

Nice work!