ks
ks
i just replaced mine. havent took the car out yet im waiting til i have to leave. but should i notice differnce right away or will it take a while ive seen so many mixed awnsers form pepole and i just want to know the truth. my harness seems wrong. but im not sure. is there supost to be 2 wires coming into the harness and only 1 coming out?
o and i found if u put a little duct tape on a coat hanger and use it to hold the ks it works really good. i just held it then doped in the bolt with a magnet and used the hanger with duct tape to hold it in place while i treaded the bolt it then just removed the duct tape by pulling up on the hanger. i dunno it worked for me took me about 15 minetes to replace it , this was my first time ever doing it and it was easy and i have no blood on my hands so ya. it was pretty good
I've never had a bad KS (knock on wood) but not sure if you would feel the power right away but you should see it when you notice your getting better gas milage. I'm not sure about the wires but I know it should have one comming out connecting to the KS.
Yea changing the KS was easy for me too, changed on my brothers Max, once I got a 12" extension and universal joint it tool 3 minutes to change.I even managed to fit my big ass hands in there to start the bolt then finish with the ratcher.
Yea changing the KS was easy for me too, changed on my brothers Max, once I got a 12" extension and universal joint it tool 3 minutes to change.I even managed to fit my big ass hands in there to start the bolt then finish with the ratcher.
I just replaced my knock sensor this week, and from what I have read, the benefits should be felt over a period of time. I have noticed that the acceleration is better, but nothing drastic. I used a 10" extension with a swivel joint, and had the whole thing done in about 20 mins. I didn't get a bloody stump, but I definitely had some scratches and nicks to remind me of the ks for a few days.
Originally Posted by LowProfile
It'll take time for your engine to map out the new settings..maybe couple of days.
"After a few days of driving, the car pulled a quite a bit harder. It now has more power in the lower RPM range (<3,000) Is this possible?
Yes. When the ECU is first powered on, it tests all sensors. When the knock sensor would fail, then it uses a "safe table" which retards the ignition advance slightly. This prevents the engine from knocking, as the "safe table" has values for low octane gas.
When the ECU started up, and saw a good knock sensor, it took time to optimize the ignition advance. The ignition timing advances very slowly waiting for some slight knock. This is how the ECU figures out the octane you are running. HOWEVER, if knock is detected, the timing is retarded VERY, VERY fast. This reduces the incredible stress of knock on your engine. This process repeats over and over."
here
iive never read anywhere what actualy happens when your engine knocks...its when the piston is slammed down at the wrong time on its compression stroke on its way up? i pulled a KS code the other day...im just not sure what a knock feels like. its been running a bit rough, are these tons of tiny knocks?? bad
I felt a noticable diff. under 3000rpm's like the motorvate.ca artice had said, it just depends on what your symptoms were with a bad ks. For me, my car hesitated badly under 3000, due to the choppy torque curve. If the actual ks was dead, and your harness was fine, you will eventually get the effects of the new ks. Check to see if it's tight enough, also.
i dont know how tight its supost to be and i cant torque it right because first of all i cant find my tourwe wrench plust with the swivel at that angle its not going to tell u the actual rating
Originally Posted by maximaintheface
so how many miles do you think its gunna take?
KS is a piezoelectric element that creates AC current when it detects a "knock," literally. the harness is right, two wires in, one out. the base of the KS is the ground. don't overtighten it.
you will not be able to just NOTICE the difference. it is not like ur putting a SC in your car. after driving normally for a week or two your ECU should have detected the optimum setting and your gas mileage plus original power should be restored. be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendation and use 91 or better octane rated fuel.
Originally Posted by dayglo
iive never read anywhere what actualy happens when your engine knocks...its when the piston is slammed down at the wrong time on its compression stroke on its way up? i pulled a KS code the other day...im just not sure what a knock feels like. its been running a bit rough, are these tons of tiny knocks?? bad
Engine "knock" is when the fuel burns prematurely, before it enters into the chamber and spark is applied. If audible it is generally considered pretty bad, and sounds like "ping ping ping ping ping ping", more than how you would think of a "knock." Running rough can be contributed to a KS I suppose, but you are probably better off checking fuel filter, spark plugs, other maint. items first. If you don't get a KS ecu code (or ghost code), then you are probably fine ...
i have been
i hate staying like under 3500 . i just want to floor it but then im like wait... dont do that cause you will die and ****. o well i just cant wait to be like vroom and take off from a light and not be all gay and slow like it was with the bad knock sensor. its pretty stupid when you barley beat a civic off the line lol. my car lags so bad under 3000 after 3000 its pretty quick. but from a dead stop its rediculous
i hate staying like under 3500 . i just want to floor it but then im like wait... dont do that cause you will die and ****. o well i just cant wait to be like vroom and take off from a light and not be all gay and slow like it was with the bad knock sensor. its pretty stupid when you barley beat a civic off the line lol. my car lags so bad under 3000 after 3000 its pretty quick. but from a dead stop its rediculous
fms, sc, pulleys, valves, chip, intake, brakes, adj tranny..
i am just saying, in my case it is not worth driving like i used to (the way you like driving) because i got in trouble for it. hope you dont, it's a pain in the a$$. i would rather go to the track and test the performance of my vehicle and have fun while doing it
i am just saying, in my case it is not worth driving like i used to (the way you like driving) because i got in trouble for it. hope you dont, it's a pain in the a$$. i would rather go to the track and test the performance of my vehicle and have fun while doing it
I had the (and still have) the same problem you seem to have had. I replaced my knock sensor, expected dramatic results, and then tightened it then coded it then tightened it then left it and on and on. It has now been about 1 1/2 weeks and I am starting to notice a small gain but still serious lag off of the line. I normally power brake to around 1500 RPM's (automatic (DAMN!!!)) and it takes me longer to get from 0-25 than to get from 30-60. It is reasurring to know that it took a long time for yours to finish mapping.



