My right axle cv boot has been ripped for about a week now im going to replace the whole axle but are there any good write ups on it? and wheres a good place to order the part thanx

 

also if i have a 95 gxe where do i find the exact part number to use with my car

 

auto parts places will have that info. just did mine you can have both sides done in 1.5 hours or quicker if youve done them before...which you havent so when you goto the parts store if you have an auto - you dont have limited slip ......make sure you know this as for a 5 sp i dont know....good luck and alittle help you will need a 36mm socket and spray some wd40 on the spindle nut before you try to bust it.....also look at the wheel bearings and make sure they arent dry

 

Well i have a 5 spd and i know if i hit my brakes and lock um up or spin my wheels its almost always only one wheel that will lock up or spin. Are there any write ups for this tho?

 

check out motorvate.ca

 

Tools needed:
Breaker bar
36MM deep socket wrench
17MM & 19MM socket or wrench
14MM open socket wrench

Recommended tools also:
Chisels of various sizes
Crow bar
Hammer
WD-40
Torque wrench

Parts needed:
Axle
Cotter Pin

Remove wheel
Remove cotter pin
Remove 36MM spindle nut, and washer.
Disconnect brake line clip
Now you can either remove the two bolts that hold the rotor to the strut or you can release the ball joint nut with an open wrench(i forgot the size of the nut).
Now pull the rotor away from the axle and pull the axle free. Make sure you are not pulling on the brake lines.
Next, in the center of the shaft after the inner joint there are three 14MM bolts. Use an open wrench to get to them. One hidden on top, and two on the bottom.
Now if rust wasnt an issue, the axle would come off freely. Unfortunately after so many miles under the car, this might be the hardest part.
Soak in WD-40. Use a chisel and hammer to turn the axle by the cylinder. Try and wedge the chisel in between the engine mount and axle. Use a crow bar if you have enough room to pry loose.
Now take off the axle and replace with the new one.

Installation is the reverse of removal. The spindle nut should be tightened to about 200 lbs.

Good luck.

 

Autozone sells for $60 (reman)

 

Thanks for your help. Still wondering if there are any writeups with pictures. It def seems worth doing myself thanks for your help

 

http://www.carpartsteam.com/NI_Maxim...embly_019.html

I believe this is a new axle assembly. I need a front right axle is the one specified for a 95-99 gxe 5spd ok? it doesnt say anything about lsd or not. does it not make a difference?

 

On the passenger side firewall, there is an ID plate. Look for the part that says transaxle or tranny. If it has a "V" in it you have LSD, if not then you dont. Also while the car is lifted, if you a spin the wheel and if both turns then you have LSD, if only one turns then you dont.

 

I have a 98 se 5spd and if there is a V in the number after tranaxle do I have an LSD.

 

i don't think that is how it works. i have an A in tranny model number, but both wheel spin when car's lifted. spinning the wheels doesn't necessarily explain what diff you have. the only way to tell is by model #. but he is replacing the right axle, which is the same on open diff and VLSD.

 

don't forger to drain 5spd fluid before removing the axle. and try not to use the gear position sensor to drain it either - you might break it. use the drain plug.

 

it does not make a difference for 95-99 5spd maxima right axle.

 

my problem is the aftermarket right axle i just put in on fri. the inner joint inside the cv boot has a race with bearing-like structure. it may be out of balance or poorly rebuilt, as mine is. i have to take it off again, and go exchange it. watch out for those cheap aftermarket parts... i guess i know what i am doing tonight.

 

Thanks for your help... still looking for a writeup with pictures if there is one out there =) Any recomendations on which one to buy whats a good brand ect..

 

if you want a good step by step with pics, try haynes repair manual - it is fairly simple to follow. and has pics.

 

I'd say that the factory would be the best axle but it's $$$. Raxles.com are good , they are new and sell the right for $150.
Autozone sells for $60(reman.) with a lifetime warranty.

 

The worst part I run into in doing pass. side axles is walking the bearing out of its mount with my air hammer. That part is lousy, the rest is pretty straight forward.

 

never had that problem. hope he doesnt either.

 

We should definetly get a write up done for the DIY's or How to's. Seems to be a common problem on our cars and seems to be def worth doing yourself

 

There is write up on movate.ca(hope I spelled it right) Search the stickys.

I was too greasy to take pictures when I was doing it.

 

The writeup is for replacing the boot not the whole axle. Atleast thats the way it looked when i was reading it.

 

it's a bit confusing too. at least for a novice.

 

i will post a new thread with some pics how to remove the right axle. simple stuff

 

ok i know this thread has been dead for a while, but im a newbie and was wondering when you take off those 2 bolts that hold the rotor to the strut will the entire suspension come down, or maybe even just the springs?? im trying to replace my CV boots, they're both leaking grease all over the place and the the suspension seems to be my only worry.

Thanks in advance

 

no, nothing will come down because the struts/springs will still be hanging by the top mounting points!

 

I didn't even bother with the boots...It was cheap enough just to swap in new axles.

 

okay guys, im stuck again, i got the rotor off the axle/driveshaft and dont know how to separate the CV joint fom the boot so i can just pop on another boot. Do i have to actually take the entire shaft off from the inner cv joint then have one end on a vice and pull on the other end to get it off?

 

thats where im basically stuck at (stole the picture from another thread), but i cut the boot off and took out as much grease as possible, is there anyway i can disconnect the joint from the shaft to put a new boot on?

 

will transmission fluid leak when i remove my front axles?

 

how do i take the halfshaft from the transaxle?

 

No fluid will leak out. Just get a crow bar or something to help you get it out. Make sure all the bolts are off. Will dirt and rust, they get stuck in there pretty tight.

 

ive been hammering and chiseling it for the past 3 hours and i still cant get it off. Ive soaked it in wd40, and its still not coming off. the driveshaft will not come off the support bearing retainer which is rusted into the bracket. any ideas, ive tried the crowbar, ive tried C-clamp to try and turn it, and ive tried hammer and chisel to try and get in between them, but nothing will penetrate. ideas would be appreciated. i have an automatic, and im trying to take off the right side halfshaft.

 

If the front end only is lifted, it may leak. If you don't want to drain it, I suggest lifting the rear of the car so it's level.

Dave

 

when i did that, i had to unbolt the bracket, then take it to a shop and press it out of the sleeve, and ended up cracking the sleeve. luckily my buddy is a welder so i got that welded up pronto

 

thanks for the suggestions, i guess ill be lifting the rear of the car as well, and possibly taking off the bracket.

if i plan on buying new axles do i have to worry bout the sleeve which you speak of? not quite sure what sleeve you're referring to

 

ok so it still wont budge, suggestions??? cant get either of my axles off of my auto tranny

 

Nothing like grease under your nails to make you feel like a man....

 

I am also having the same problem as the right side axle wont budge, once the three bolts are out of the support bracket it doesnt want to move regardless of how many times you hammer and wd40 it. Any ideas on how to remove this?