Axle repair
#3
auto parts places will have that info. just did mine you can have both sides done in 1.5 hours or quicker if youve done them before...which you havent so when you goto the parts store if you have an auto - you dont have limited slip ......make sure you know this as for a 5 sp i dont know....good luck and alittle help you will need a 36mm socket and spray some wd40 on the spindle nut before you try to bust it.....also look at the wheel bearings and make sure they arent dry
#6
Right Side CV Write Up
Tools needed:
Breaker bar
36MM deep socket wrench
17MM & 19MM socket or wrench
14MM open socket wrench
Recommended tools also:
Chisels of various sizes
Crow bar
Hammer
WD-40
Torque wrench
Parts needed:
Axle
Cotter Pin
Remove wheel
Remove cotter pin
Remove 36MM spindle nut, and washer.
Disconnect brake line clip
Now you can either remove the two bolts that hold the rotor to the strut or you can release the ball joint nut with an open wrench(i forgot the size of the nut).
Now pull the rotor away from the axle and pull the axle free. Make sure you are not pulling on the brake lines.
Next, in the center of the shaft after the inner joint there are three 14MM bolts. Use an open wrench to get to them. One hidden on top, and two on the bottom.
Now if rust wasnt an issue, the axle would come off freely. Unfortunately after so many miles under the car, this might be the hardest part.
Soak in WD-40. Use a chisel and hammer to turn the axle by the cylinder. Try and wedge the chisel in between the engine mount and axle. Use a crow bar if you have enough room to pry loose.
Now take off the axle and replace with the new one.
Installation is the reverse of removal. The spindle nut should be tightened to about 200 lbs.
Good luck.
Breaker bar
36MM deep socket wrench
17MM & 19MM socket or wrench
14MM open socket wrench
Recommended tools also:
Chisels of various sizes
Crow bar
Hammer
WD-40
Torque wrench
Parts needed:
Axle
Cotter Pin
Remove wheel
Remove cotter pin
Remove 36MM spindle nut, and washer.
Disconnect brake line clip
Now you can either remove the two bolts that hold the rotor to the strut or you can release the ball joint nut with an open wrench(i forgot the size of the nut).
Now pull the rotor away from the axle and pull the axle free. Make sure you are not pulling on the brake lines.
Next, in the center of the shaft after the inner joint there are three 14MM bolts. Use an open wrench to get to them. One hidden on top, and two on the bottom.
Now if rust wasnt an issue, the axle would come off freely. Unfortunately after so many miles under the car, this might be the hardest part.
Soak in WD-40. Use a chisel and hammer to turn the axle by the cylinder. Try and wedge the chisel in between the engine mount and axle. Use a crow bar if you have enough room to pry loose.
Now take off the axle and replace with the new one.
Installation is the reverse of removal. The spindle nut should be tightened to about 200 lbs.
Good luck.
#9
http://www.carpartsteam.com/NI_Maxim...embly_019.html
I believe this is a new axle assembly. I need a front right axle is the one specified for a 95-99 gxe 5spd ok? it doesnt say anything about lsd or not. does it not make a difference?
I believe this is a new axle assembly. I need a front right axle is the one specified for a 95-99 gxe 5spd ok? it doesnt say anything about lsd or not. does it not make a difference?
#10
On the passenger side firewall, there is an ID plate. Look for the part that says transaxle or tranny. If it has a "V" in it you have LSD, if not then you dont. Also while the car is lifted, if you a spin the wheel and if both turns then you have LSD, if only one turns then you dont.
#12
Originally Posted by adithius
On the passenger side firewall, there is an ID plate. Look for the part that says transaxle or tranny. If it has a "V" in it you have LSD, if not then you dont. Also while the car is lifted, if you a spin the wheel and if both turns then you have LSD, if only one turns then you dont.
#13
Originally Posted by adithius
Tools needed:
Breaker bar
36MM deep socket wrench
17MM & 19MM socket or wrench
14MM open socket wrench
Recommended tools also:
Chisels of various sizes
Crow bar
Hammer
WD-40
Torque wrench
Parts needed:
Axle
Cotter Pin
Remove wheel
Remove cotter pin
Remove 36MM spindle nut, and washer.
Disconnect brake line clip
Now you can either remove the two bolts that hold the rotor to the strut or you can release the ball joint nut with an open wrench(i forgot the size of the nut).
Now pull the rotor away from the axle and pull the axle free. Make sure you are not pulling on the brake lines.
Next, in the center of the shaft after the inner joint there are three 14MM bolts. Use an open wrench to get to them. One hidden on top, and two on the bottom.
Now if rust wasnt an issue, the axle would come off freely. Unfortunately after so many miles under the car, this might be the hardest part.
Soak in WD-40. Use a chisel and hammer to turn the axle by the cylinder. Try and wedge the chisel in between the engine mount and axle. Use a crow bar if you have enough room to pry loose.
Now take off the axle and replace with the new one.
Installation is the reverse of removal. The spindle nut should be tightened to about 200 lbs.
Good luck.
Breaker bar
36MM deep socket wrench
17MM & 19MM socket or wrench
14MM open socket wrench
Recommended tools also:
Chisels of various sizes
Crow bar
Hammer
WD-40
Torque wrench
Parts needed:
Axle
Cotter Pin
Remove wheel
Remove cotter pin
Remove 36MM spindle nut, and washer.
Disconnect brake line clip
Now you can either remove the two bolts that hold the rotor to the strut or you can release the ball joint nut with an open wrench(i forgot the size of the nut).
Now pull the rotor away from the axle and pull the axle free. Make sure you are not pulling on the brake lines.
Next, in the center of the shaft after the inner joint there are three 14MM bolts. Use an open wrench to get to them. One hidden on top, and two on the bottom.
Now if rust wasnt an issue, the axle would come off freely. Unfortunately after so many miles under the car, this might be the hardest part.
Soak in WD-40. Use a chisel and hammer to turn the axle by the cylinder. Try and wedge the chisel in between the engine mount and axle. Use a crow bar if you have enough room to pry loose.
Now take off the axle and replace with the new one.
Installation is the reverse of removal. The spindle nut should be tightened to about 200 lbs.
Good luck.
don't forger to drain 5spd fluid before removing the axle. and try not to use the gear position sensor to drain it either - you might break it. use the drain plug.
#14
Originally Posted by lanky2882
http://www.carpartsteam.com/NI_Maxim...embly_019.html
I believe this is a new axle assembly. I need a front right axle is the one specified for a 95-99 gxe 5spd ok? it doesnt say anything about lsd or not. does it not make a difference?
I believe this is a new axle assembly. I need a front right axle is the one specified for a 95-99 gxe 5spd ok? it doesnt say anything about lsd or not. does it not make a difference?
#15
my problem is the aftermarket right axle i just put in on fri. the inner joint inside the cv boot has a race with bearing-like structure. it may be out of balance or poorly rebuilt, as mine is. i have to take it off again, and go exchange it. watch out for those cheap aftermarket parts... i guess i know what i am doing tonight.
#18
Originally Posted by lanky2882
Thanks for your help... still looking for a writeup with pictures if there is one out there =) Any recomendations on which one to buy whats a good brand ect..
Autozone sells for $60(reman.) with a lifetime warranty.
#22
Originally Posted by lanky2882
We should definetly get a write up done for the DIY's or How to's. Seems to be a common problem on our cars and seems to be def worth doing yourself
I was too greasy to take pictures when I was doing it.
#26
ok i know this thread has been dead for a while, but im a newbie and was wondering when you take off those 2 bolts that hold the rotor to the strut will the entire suspension come down, or maybe even just the springs?? im trying to replace my CV boots, they're both leaking grease all over the place and the the suspension seems to be my only worry.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#27
Originally Posted by nybuddha
ok i know this thread has been dead for a while, but im a newbie and was wondering when you take off those 2 bolts that hold the rotor to the strut will the entire suspension come down, or maybe even just the springs?? im trying to replace my CV boots, they're both leaking grease all over the place and the the suspension seems to be my only worry.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#29
okay guys, im stuck again, i got the rotor off the axle/driveshaft and dont know how to separate the CV joint fom the boot so i can just pop on another boot. Do i have to actually take the entire shaft off from the inner cv joint then have one end on a vice and pull on the other end to get it off?
#30
thats where im basically stuck at (stole the picture from another thread), but i cut the boot off and took out as much grease as possible, is there anyway i can disconnect the joint from the shaft to put a new boot on?
#34
ive been hammering and chiseling it for the past 3 hours and i still cant get it off. Ive soaked it in wd40, and its still not coming off. the driveshaft will not come off the support bearing retainer which is rusted into the bracket. any ideas, ive tried the crowbar, ive tried C-clamp to try and turn it, and ive tried hammer and chisel to try and get in between them, but nothing will penetrate. ideas would be appreciated. i have an automatic, and im trying to take off the right side halfshaft.
#35
Originally Posted by nybuddha
will transmission fluid leak when i remove my front axles?
Dave
#37
thanks for the suggestions, i guess ill be lifting the rear of the car as well, and possibly taking off the bracket.
if i plan on buying new axles do i have to worry bout the sleeve which you speak of? not quite sure what sleeve you're referring to
if i plan on buying new axles do i have to worry bout the sleeve which you speak of? not quite sure what sleeve you're referring to
#40
I am also having the same problem as the right side axle wont budge, once the three bolts are out of the support bracket it doesnt want to move regardless of how many times you hammer and wd40 it. Any ideas on how to remove this?