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Steering Wheel Shake above 60mph.

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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:31 PM
  #1  
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Steering Wheel Shake above 60mph.

I have a 1995 GLE with 133k miles on the odometer. The engine doesn't drip a drop of oil, and runs as smooth as ever.

Here's the situation. When I get above 60 mph on the freeway/interstate/pike, I start to feel a shimmy in the steering wheel.

Could this be.....

1. Wheel Balance
2. Struts
3. what?

The Struts are original.

I notice that when just driving around town on city streets, the car transmits bumps rather harshly. I do keep 40psi pressure in my 44psi maximum pressure radials, but I think this harshness to bumps and road conditions is something else not doing it's job.

Do new struts dampen out a lot of the bumps and road noise/uneveness/vibration?

My tire wear seems to be ok. There's no cupping of treads, or inside or outside tread wear.

If it's struts that need replacing, can I do it myself? How much of a job? I could rent a spring compressor, but is it dangerous? How much $$ can I save doing the change myself? I know I'd have to pay for a new allignment.
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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Check brake rotors and wheel balances. Bad struts may contribute too.
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by eightball
When I get above 60 mph on the freeway/interstate/pike, I start to feel a shimmy in the steering wheel.

Could this be.....

1. Wheel Balance
2. Struts
3. what?

The Struts are original.
Get your wheels balanced, that should stop the shimmy. Your struts are probably starting to show their age, think about replacing them soon and you'll get a better ride from the car.

Originally Posted by eightball

I notice that when just driving around town on city streets, the car transmits bumps rather harshly. I do keep 40psi pressure in my 44psi maximum pressure radials, but I think this harshness to bumps and road conditions is something else not doing it's job.


If it's struts that need replacing, can I do it myself?
40 PSI is to much air, the factory recommended tire pressure for your car is 33F and 29R. You don't need to run the tire's max pressure. That pressure is for the Maximum load which that tire can withstand. Running pressures that high is reducing tire contact patch to the road which in turn will reduce the tires grip.

You can replace the struts yourself, rent a spring compressor and look up the procedure here on the org or get a Haynes shop manual for your car.
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:48 PM
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Sounds good. I'm new to the forum. Where or how do I navigate on the website to get to the area showing how to do strut replacements yourself?
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 03:27 PM
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This is from Maxima.org: Click

I might know more, If I do I'll post it. But try the search button on the top of the page on the tool bar... Thats if non donating members could use the search feature now???
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by eightball
Sounds good. I'm new to the forum. Where or how do I navigate on the website to get to the area showing how to do strut replacements yourself?


finally a nice, non retarded newb....
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 04:10 PM
  #7  
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I had the same problem... alignment did nothing... it disaappeared when I redid my entire suspension with 1.5 drop CE springs, illumina struts, and new front bearings, bushings, bumpstop/ dust boots, upper spring rubber, and poly spring tubes on the bottom... vibration above 60 is gone and it takes bumps better than the day it rolled out of the factory...
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 04:26 PM
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could be... in order of occurance

1. Wheels unbalanced
2. Wheel alignment
3. Warped brake rotors
4. unbalanced half-shafts (CV joints)
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 04:34 PM
  #9  
eightball's Avatar
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Originally Posted by BORQUA79
This is from Maxima.org: Click

I might know more, If I do I'll post it. But try the search button on the top of the page on the tool bar... Thats if non donating members could use the search feature now???
That was a very good pictorial with explanations. Thanks.
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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get tires balanced first.

if problem persists, check the inner cv boots. these boots if torn will cause problems in accelerating at higher speeds. you won't hear popping noise during your turns but you will feel the rattle stepping the pedal after 50 mph.

also you better release your tire pressure back to 30-32-ish. 40 is way too high...
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #11  
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Ok I have the EXACT same problem in my '95 max with about 130k miles on it. Recently got new tires (Toyo Observes for only $89 a tire!) They saw when replacing the tires that the CV boot was ripped so they ordered me a re-manufactured CV joint and replaced the old one, and my max starts to shake above 60mph, really sucks when in MT most of the roads are highways (atleast the ones I tend to drive on) could it be they screwed up when installing the CV joint? or maybe something else
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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well, it depends on which boot was ripped. there is the inner boot, which when ripped, will get you the rattles at high speeds. then there is the outter boot, which will make "popping" noises when you are turning.
Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:45 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by eightball
That was a very good pictorial with explanations. Thanks.
No problem

I had the same problem. I needed new tires because of the wear I had, so after balancing and installing them the shake went away... I also noticed before switching tires that the weight that was on one of the wheels fell off... I also aligned because after dropping it I never had it done. (Tein S-Tech/AGX) The car goes up to and beyond 60 mph smoothly now...

So check your wheel weights
Check the balance then alignement
Usually warped rotors would slightly rub when you first start rolling the car...
My rotors are warped and I still have no shake (In the process of replacing) But then again thats just me...
Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:59 AM
  #14  
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if your going to do your struts i do recomend you get the strut bearings from nissan before you rreplace the struts. that way you have them in hand if needed.....good luck
Old Mar 17, 2005 | 08:21 AM
  #15  
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There could be many problems:
CV joints
Alignment
Tires
Brakes
Struts
just re-check all of them.
Old Mar 17, 2005 | 09:14 AM
  #16  
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All these ideas have much merit, and I will look into them, starting with the least expensive one's first.

Regards, eightball
Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:20 AM
  #17  
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get it on a lift and check all suspension parts out...and while ur in a shop get and alignment...Mine used to Shake like 60-70....then i did and alignment at skool....now it feels like a Max again..smooth
Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #18  
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and my CV joints are messed u and no drivability problems until i make turns
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