VTC rebuild??
VTC rebuild??
I have a 1993 maxima SE. I have the the standard tick tick tick noise coming from my valves. I think it is only on the front head. Does anyone know if this could cause my car to serge and have the idle vary by 500 rpm?
If this happens to be the VTC does anyone know where I can get the repair kit ahd the directions to rebuild this thing??
If this happens to be the VTC does anyone know where I can get the repair kit ahd the directions to rebuild this thing??
The ticking most likly is the VTCs if your car has higher mileage on it, although I'm not sure about them being the cause off the irratic idle.
I think that nissan has the rebuild kit for the VTCs, but it's recommended that a shop do it. cause it's said that without a bit of automotive knowledge and whatnot that it's almost impossible to do the right way. the proceedure is precise with markings and whatot and you have to make sure that everything goes back together like EXACTLY the way it came apart. theres a write up on it but i dont have the link on this comp. good luck.
I think that nissan has the rebuild kit for the VTCs, but it's recommended that a shop do it. cause it's said that without a bit of automotive knowledge and whatnot that it's almost impossible to do the right way. the proceedure is precise with markings and whatot and you have to make sure that everything goes back together like EXACTLY the way it came apart. theres a write up on it but i dont have the link on this comp. good luck.
Originally Posted by Drivin Maxima
The ticking most likly is the VTCs if your car has higher mileage on it, although I'm not sure about them being the cause off the irratic idle.
I think that nissan has the rebuild kit for the VTCs, but it's recommended that a shop do it. cause it's said that without a bit of automotive knowledge and whatnot that it's almost impossible to do the right way. the proceedure is precise with markings and whatot and you have to make sure that everything goes back together like EXACTLY the way it came apart. theres a write up on it but i dont have the link on this comp. good luck.
I think that nissan has the rebuild kit for the VTCs, but it's recommended that a shop do it. cause it's said that without a bit of automotive knowledge and whatnot that it's almost impossible to do the right way. the proceedure is precise with markings and whatot and you have to make sure that everything goes back together like EXACTLY the way it came apart. theres a write up on it but i dont have the link on this comp. good luck.
I have been told that Nissan has discontinued the rebuild kits so you might have to call a bunch of dealers to find one in stock. I would rebuild both while the engine is apart. FWIW, Aaron92SE rebuilt his and 1k miles later they started ticking again, but others have gone 30k+ on rebuilds without ticking.
Originally Posted by terrors42
The ticking occurs when the car is started then goes away but when the engine is at operating temperature the tick comes back and my cars performance goes down and I can accelerated to fast.
Is the tick ONLY at idle? if you give just a little gas does it go away?
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Is the tick ONLY at idle? if you give just a little gas does it go away?
well the VTCs are for use at top end, so I'm thinkin that theyre not the cause of the acceleration problem. On the other hand, take out the coils and check them for cracks. Any cracks in the coils could cause arching from the coil to the valve cover, not allowing the plug to get power for its fire. If this is so then that could very well be the cause of the rough idle and also acceleration problem.
Also, it's known that 3rd gens go through fuel injectors like it's their job and theyre gettin paid over time, so a bad injector, or injectors, could be the idle and accel problem. But check the coils first.
Also, that was a good call on Mizeree X's part, if your gonna delv into the VTC rebuild, then do both. Good Luck
Also, it's known that 3rd gens go through fuel injectors like it's their job and theyre gettin paid over time, so a bad injector, or injectors, could be the idle and accel problem. But check the coils first.
Also, that was a good call on Mizeree X's part, if your gonna delv into the VTC rebuild, then do both. Good Luck
stupid question:
Have you checked your oil?
are you using the correct oil?
BTW .99 oil is generally not approved for use in our cars. the last one I looked at was SB rated
(1964 and OLDER cars)
Have you checked your oil?
are you using the correct oil?
BTW .99 oil is generally not approved for use in our cars. the last one I looked at was SB rated
(1964 and OLDER cars)
Originally Posted by Drivin Maxima
well the VTCs are for use at top end, so I'm thinkin that theyre not the cause of the acceleration problem. On the other hand, take out the coils and check them for cracks. Any cracks in the coils could cause arching from the coil to the valve cover, not allowing the plug to get power for its fire. If this is so then that could very well be the cause of the rough idle and also acceleration problem.
Also, it's known that 3rd gens go through fuel injectors like it's their job and theyre gettin paid over time, so a bad injector, or injectors, could be the idle and accel problem. But check the coils first.
Also, that was a good call on Mizeree X's part, if your gonna delv into the VTC rebuild, then do both. Good Luck
Also, it's known that 3rd gens go through fuel injectors like it's their job and theyre gettin paid over time, so a bad injector, or injectors, could be the idle and accel problem. But check the coils first.
Also, that was a good call on Mizeree X's part, if your gonna delv into the VTC rebuild, then do both. Good Luck
VTC's produce low end power, they are OFF during high end.
Originally Posted by eric93SE
VTC's produce low end power, they are OFF during high end.
Oh sorry. I was mistaken then. I was under the impression that they worked kinda like v-tec in a sense. Sorry for the bad info
Originally Posted by terrors42
So this VTC thing has been a real pain. The mechanic I originally took this thing to wanted to change the head. Have any of you heard about mechanics wanting to do this?
Don't let him change the head, unless he knows exactly whats wrong. He sounds like someone who is inexperienced with maxima's, or experienced in the art of theft.
In your first post you said the idle varies by 500rpm, by that do you mean its hunting or going up and down continuously?
How many miles do you have? I'd guess you have one or more bad injectors.
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Don't let him change the head, unless he knows exactly whats wrong. He sounds like someone who is inexperienced with maxima's, or experienced in the art of theft.
In your first post you said the idle varies by 500rpm, by that do you mean its hunting or going up and down continuously?
How many miles do you have? I'd guess you have one or more bad injectors.
In your first post you said the idle varies by 500rpm, by that do you mean its hunting or going up and down continuously?
How many miles do you have? I'd guess you have one or more bad injectors.
If it is bad injectors how would I go about checking them??
A simple resistance check, should be 11-14 ohms. The front three are easy to check, the rear three have a sub harness at the left side of the intake manifold. When checking the rear three, make sure you only probe the side that runs to the injectors, because the other side always has a +12v comming from the ecu even when the car is off, so this is just a word of caution so that you don't short out the ecu.
That is only the solenoid portion of the injector, the other problem with injectors is their filter screen becomming plugged up, and the last problem is a leaking injector seal.
That is only the solenoid portion of the injector, the other problem with injectors is their filter screen becomming plugged up, and the last problem is a leaking injector seal.
Originally Posted by eric93SE
A simple resistance check, should be 11-14 ohms. The front three are easy to check, the rear three have a sub harness at the left side of the intake manifold. When checking the rear three, make sure you only probe the side that runs to the injectors, because the other side always has a +12v comming from the ecu even when the car is off, so this is just a word of caution so that you don't short out the ecu.
That is only the solenoid portion of the injector, the other problem with injectors is their filter screen becomming plugged up, and the last problem is a leaking injector seal.
That is only the solenoid portion of the injector, the other problem with injectors is their filter screen becomming plugged up, and the last problem is a leaking injector seal.
that would be my cue.
www.internetautomart.com
BTW don't buy rebuilts unless you like doing the job twice
www.internetautomart.com
BTW don't buy rebuilts unless you like doing the job twice
IS there anyway that My Oxygen sensor is causing these issues??
Oh yeah while I am at it can someone explain to me where the ECU is I must be stupid or something. I am looking at My chiltion manual and the illistrations suck. Is it in the center consel?
Oh yeah while I am at it can someone explain to me where the ECU is I must be stupid or something. I am looking at My chiltion manual and the illistrations suck. Is it in the center consel?
Originally Posted by djx82
Do you lose power when the VTCs are ticking? or what? cuz my car has the same issue, but it seems like the car is fine... please tell me if it only loses power while making ticks.. thanks guys
VTC blues
My 92SE has been having the problem for a while, like over a year. The mechanic I saw told me I shouldn't drive it anymore (and then offered to trade me a Sentra with 200,000 miles).
So what is the bottom line? Am I slowly (or quickly) driving my car to death? Is there anything I can do about it? Is there more to worry about than just a loud noise?
Thanks!
So what is the bottom line? Am I slowly (or quickly) driving my car to death? Is there anything I can do about it? Is there more to worry about than just a loud noise?
Thanks!
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