Ok I'm doing my rear brakes on a 97SE, and the rear brake pistons is not pushing back far enough. I've done brake jobs on many maximas and this had never happened before. I'd use my special brake piston tool and turn the piston clockwise. I need it to go down about 1/4" more and the piston would turn, but it doesn't go down anymore.

PLEASE HELP.

I took my car to NTB this morning so that they can work on it but they want $1300 bucks for this and that and etc etc. This is why I do my own work!!!! I'm gonna go bring my car back and try again to fix it myself. HELP

*Is this the symptom of a bad caliper?

 

Could be some crud inside the caliper bore stopping the piston from bottoming out.

 

Try opening the bleeder and see if that helps any.
May be a bad caliper. When I changed mine I didn't have any trouble retracting it to get the new pads on but when I took it for a test drive afterwards, one of the rear calipers was sticking or binding and I ended up frying my new pads and rotor.

$1300 WTF!!!

 

this is just a shot in the dark but make sure the parking brake is off

 

I'd be curious to hear about this too.

I just did my rear brakes yesterday. Started off with what I thought would be replacing the pads but turns out that the lower slider pins on both sides were STUCK!!! Managed to get them loose but one of them isn't sliding well, I might have to replace the bracket and get new slider pins when I change my rotors in the future (apparently a dealer part only, Autozone doesn't carry them).

Then, the pistons wouldn't retract back, I even tried opening the bleeder but no luck. Used a piston tool from Autozone, no luck either. It turned barely, and deformed the rubber boot in the process.

So after 10 years and 100k miles on the original rear calipers, I decided to call it a day and got new calipers from autozone (90 driver, 60 passenger).

First time I did brakes too
Saved a ton of money, spent less than $200 on new calipers and pads.

 

I had the same type of problem with my passanger side rear caliper.

I needed less than 1/8" more to get my pads back in. I had to get it done that night so I just kept turning and turning that piston. It is a PITA to say the least, but after probably 3 more full turns of the piston I finally got just enough room to squeeze the caliper over. It took 2hrs to get those last few turns but it did go back in some more. It was a tight fit and I was worried that the caliper was going to be frozen but all has been fine and that was at least 6 months ago.

 

How did you guys secure the caliper while compressing the piston? I had to have a friend hold it. while I twist.

 

I can remeber exactly, I would have to see one in front of me to remeber...but I just left it held on by one bolt and rotated backwards.

 

same thing here passenger rear caliper, i spent like 45 mins twisting that thing in, all i had at the time was a pair of needle nose pliers too, tried to bleed it didnt really help, finally got it all back together and it "groaned" for a couple of days, than only on a cold morning than after 2 weeks it was okay (thankfully, i was right on the verge of buying a new caliper too).

 

You just need to turn the piston clock wise, if the rubber stick to the piston then maybe it's time to clean the seal and check if they are perforated or need to be replace, most unexperienced people when doing brake are only swapping pad and rotors and that's it. If you want your brake system to give the maximum performance, you also need to lubricate all moving parts, replace the hardware or clean it and make shure you caliper are slidding smoothly if you nee more assistance I can send you some pics to help.

Good luck.

 

I can definitely use some pictures. Could you please send/ post them. Thank you

 

It's prob the piston just stuck like everyone says but if it has rear brake hoses and one becomes soft and collapses on release this will not let piston retract.

 

You're replying to a post from 2005. Stop it.

See above.