View Poll Results: Which Rotor is best for an 03 max
OEM with OEM pads
9
12.33%
Brembo Blanks with OEM pads
33
45.21%
RTP Slotted Rotors from GD with axxis pads
25
34.25%
RTP Blanks Rotors from GD with axxis pads
6
8.22%
Voters: 73. You may not vote on this poll
OEM Rotors Vs. Aftermarket which ones do you pick?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
OEM Rotors Vs. Aftermarket which ones do you pick?
When i drive at high speeds on the highway and apply the brakes the whole car starts to shimmy. I believe that my rotors are warped and was looking to get some new ones. ive spoken to a few mechanics and they all told me that Oem is the best rotors and any that i shouldnt consider anything aftermarket. Also i was told that blanks are the best type of rotors and that either slotted or cross drilled would not increase my braking performance and will actually warp faster.
So my question is simple which rotors would you choose?
So my question is simple which rotors would you choose?
Can you list your sources of reasearch? I'd like to read up some more.
Brembo blanks are around $40 each. Frozen ones are $125 each. I'll use OEM pads, just because I already have them - inherited with the car.
For those with physics and chemistry knowledge : what do you think will happen if you dit Brembo blanks in liquid Ni. Is that close to the same process as frozen rotors are put thru?
Brembo blanks are around $40 each. Frozen ones are $125 each. I'll use OEM pads, just because I already have them - inherited with the car.
For those with physics and chemistry knowledge : what do you think will happen if you dit Brembo blanks in liquid Ni. Is that close to the same process as frozen rotors are put thru?
Originally Posted by R.I.P. Grandma
from the research i have done so far, Brembo Blanks are more recommended then anything else. They supposibly dont warp as fast and provide better braking then OEM. Everyones comments are welcomed.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
After speaking with Automax again i feel confident in his comments and his belief that RTP zinc plated slotted rotors will perform better then OEM rotors and will not warp. I guess im going to try out the RTP/Axxis combo in a couple of weeks, unless someone else has something else in mind.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 107
I ordered the Brembo Blanks for my 00 Max, and im using Raybestos Quietstop Pads... The pads worked good on my OEM rotors, we'll see how they perform with my Brembo Blanks. I awaiting my new rotors. If you want to order them contact Automax_95 a.k.a Jason. He's awsome person to get them from. Prompt responses, shipping, nothin but positive feedback, etc... Recomended A+++ (what is this ebay?)
-Andy
Shift_Inspiration
-Andy
Shift_Inspiration
Seoul Man
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,010
Going with OEM rotors is a good idea sometimes. In our case, the OEM rotors are KNOWN to warp easily, so going with aftermarket rotors isn't bad as long as you pick your rotors wisely. Brembo and RTP are both good companies, but I don't believe you can get a full set of front and rear Brembos yet, can you? I know you can get RTPs in the right size for a 2002/2003 Maxima. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
As for the drilled/slotted question, I recommend slotted rotors. Drilling is theoretically good for braking performance, since it allows materials trapped between your rotors and pads to escape, but OEM sized brake rotors often operate near their thermal design limits, especially when you're using high performance aggressive pads. If the rotors aren't drilled properly, their strength under conditions of extreme heat and stress can be compromised, allowing them to crack. Slotted rotors allow any trapped material between the pad and rotor to escape just like cross drilled rotors, but they don't cool down quite as fast. I think that it's a fair trade, though, considering that they tend to crack less.
Here's a direct quote from Mike Kojima, who writes for Nissan Performance Magazine:
"Rotors are drilled because the drilling lets vaporized pad material escape from under the pads, minimizing the hydroplaning effect under hard braking thus giving the pads better grip under these extreme conditions. Drilling also lets water escape in much the same manor in rainy weather. Test done by KVR show that drilled rotors can cool down up to 20 percent quicker than solid rotors. Drilling also helps deglaze the rotors or keeps them from glazing up due to a cheese grater effect.
I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are run close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling can contribute to cracking. If you are buying drilled rotors check to see if the holes have be chamfered. Chamfering helps reduce the likelihood of cracking. Drilled solid rotors like the rear rotors on SE-R’s make a weird whirring noise when the brakes are applied. Some people have said that drilled rotors cause faster pad wear but I myself have not experienced it. Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient thermal capacity are functional and useful. Better than drilling but perhaps lacking some of the racy pizzazz are slotted rotors. Slotting does the same thing as drilling but without the cracking problem. I don’t think slotted rotors cool any faster but they are a lot less likely to crack. If you are running stock sized rotors , I’d go for slotted for this reason.
Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled, slotted and solid back to back. They really look cool though and fall in to the disco/rice boy category as all of my personal cars have them!"
As for the drilled/slotted question, I recommend slotted rotors. Drilling is theoretically good for braking performance, since it allows materials trapped between your rotors and pads to escape, but OEM sized brake rotors often operate near their thermal design limits, especially when you're using high performance aggressive pads. If the rotors aren't drilled properly, their strength under conditions of extreme heat and stress can be compromised, allowing them to crack. Slotted rotors allow any trapped material between the pad and rotor to escape just like cross drilled rotors, but they don't cool down quite as fast. I think that it's a fair trade, though, considering that they tend to crack less.
Here's a direct quote from Mike Kojima, who writes for Nissan Performance Magazine:
"Rotors are drilled because the drilling lets vaporized pad material escape from under the pads, minimizing the hydroplaning effect under hard braking thus giving the pads better grip under these extreme conditions. Drilling also lets water escape in much the same manor in rainy weather. Test done by KVR show that drilled rotors can cool down up to 20 percent quicker than solid rotors. Drilling also helps deglaze the rotors or keeps them from glazing up due to a cheese grater effect.
I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are run close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling can contribute to cracking. If you are buying drilled rotors check to see if the holes have be chamfered. Chamfering helps reduce the likelihood of cracking. Drilled solid rotors like the rear rotors on SE-R’s make a weird whirring noise when the brakes are applied. Some people have said that drilled rotors cause faster pad wear but I myself have not experienced it. Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient thermal capacity are functional and useful. Better than drilling but perhaps lacking some of the racy pizzazz are slotted rotors. Slotting does the same thing as drilling but without the cracking problem. I don’t think slotted rotors cool any faster but they are a lot less likely to crack. If you are running stock sized rotors , I’d go for slotted for this reason.
Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled, slotted and solid back to back. They really look cool though and fall in to the disco/rice boy category as all of my personal cars have them!"
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
Originally Posted by spiromax
Going with OEM rotors is a good idea sometimes. In our case, the OEM rotors are KNOWN to warp easily, so going with aftermarket rotors isn't bad as long as you pick your rotors wisely. Brembo and RTP are both good companies, but I don't believe you can get a full set of front and rear Brembos yet, can you? I know you can get RTPs in the right size for a 2002/2003 Maxima. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
As for the drilled/slotted question, I recommend slotted rotors. Drilling is theoretically good for braking performance, since it allows materials trapped between your rotors and pads to escape, but OEM sized brake rotors often operate near their thermal design limits, especially when you're using high performance aggressive pads. If the rotors aren't drilled properly, their strength under conditions of extreme heat and stress can be compromised, allowing them to crack. Slotted rotors allow any trapped material between the pad and rotor to escape just like cross drilled rotors, but they don't cool down quite as fast. I think that it's a fair trade, though, considering that they tend to crack less.
Here's a direct quote from Mike Kojima, who writes for Nissan Performance Magazine:
"Rotors are drilled because the drilling lets vaporized pad material escape from under the pads, minimizing the hydroplaning effect under hard braking thus giving the pads better grip under these extreme conditions. Drilling also lets water escape in much the same manor in rainy weather. Test done by KVR show that drilled rotors can cool down up to 20 percent quicker than solid rotors. Drilling also helps deglaze the rotors or keeps them from glazing up due to a cheese grater effect.
I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are run close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling can contribute to cracking. If you are buying drilled rotors check to see if the holes have be chamfered. Chamfering helps reduce the likelihood of cracking. Drilled solid rotors like the rear rotors on SE-R’s make a weird whirring noise when the brakes are applied. Some people have said that drilled rotors cause faster pad wear but I myself have not experienced it. Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient thermal capacity are functional and useful. Better than drilling but perhaps lacking some of the racy pizzazz are slotted rotors. Slotting does the same thing as drilling but without the cracking problem. I don’t think slotted rotors cool any faster but they are a lot less likely to crack. If you are running stock sized rotors , I’d go for slotted for this reason.
Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled, slotted and solid back to back. They really look cool though and fall in to the disco/rice boy category as all of my personal cars have them!"
As for the drilled/slotted question, I recommend slotted rotors. Drilling is theoretically good for braking performance, since it allows materials trapped between your rotors and pads to escape, but OEM sized brake rotors often operate near their thermal design limits, especially when you're using high performance aggressive pads. If the rotors aren't drilled properly, their strength under conditions of extreme heat and stress can be compromised, allowing them to crack. Slotted rotors allow any trapped material between the pad and rotor to escape just like cross drilled rotors, but they don't cool down quite as fast. I think that it's a fair trade, though, considering that they tend to crack less.
Here's a direct quote from Mike Kojima, who writes for Nissan Performance Magazine:
"Rotors are drilled because the drilling lets vaporized pad material escape from under the pads, minimizing the hydroplaning effect under hard braking thus giving the pads better grip under these extreme conditions. Drilling also lets water escape in much the same manor in rainy weather. Test done by KVR show that drilled rotors can cool down up to 20 percent quicker than solid rotors. Drilling also helps deglaze the rotors or keeps them from glazing up due to a cheese grater effect.
I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are run close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling can contribute to cracking. If you are buying drilled rotors check to see if the holes have be chamfered. Chamfering helps reduce the likelihood of cracking. Drilled solid rotors like the rear rotors on SE-R’s make a weird whirring noise when the brakes are applied. Some people have said that drilled rotors cause faster pad wear but I myself have not experienced it. Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient thermal capacity are functional and useful. Better than drilling but perhaps lacking some of the racy pizzazz are slotted rotors. Slotting does the same thing as drilling but without the cracking problem. I don’t think slotted rotors cool any faster but they are a lot less likely to crack. If you are running stock sized rotors , I’d go for slotted for this reason.
Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled, slotted and solid back to back. They really look cool though and fall in to the disco/rice boy category as all of my personal cars have them!"
very informative post. Thank You.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 908
Frozen rotors 
lasts 2 to 3 times as long as standard rotors. I didn't want to buy Brembo and have to get them cut at 15K miles. If I wanted that kind of performance I would get OEM again.
http://www.frozenrotors.com
lasts 2 to 3 times as long as standard rotors. I didn't want to buy Brembo and have to get them cut at 15K miles. If I wanted that kind of performance I would get OEM again.
http://www.frozenrotors.com
OEM rotors and a good set of pads that dont transfer material, which is what happens most of the time making people think their rotors are warped when they actually arent
Plus I just bought 6th gen front rotors for 25$ a piece and they were pretty much brand new. You cant beat that deal.
Plus I just bought 6th gen front rotors for 25$ a piece and they were pretty much brand new. You cant beat that deal.
Originally Posted by nicks79
For those with physics and chemistry knowledge : what do you think will happen if you dit Brembo blanks in liquid Ni. Is that close to the same process as frozen rotors are put thru?
Sure, if you want to completely ruin them . Cryogenic heat treating is a slow process, you can't just dunk a piece of metal into something that cold and expect it to survive. Also after they have been cryo'd they would have to be tempered (warmed up slowly) depending on the material (usually 300 to 500 F)
Do not try this at home!!
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 442
From: New Paltz, NY
Originally Posted by Lumbee1
Frozen rotors
lasts 2 to 3 times as long as standard rotors. I didn't want to buy Brembo and have to get them cut at 15K miles. If I wanted that kind of performance I would get OEM again.
http://www.frozenrotors.com
lasts 2 to 3 times as long as standard rotors. I didn't want to buy Brembo and have to get them cut at 15K miles. If I wanted that kind of performance I would get OEM again.
http://www.frozenrotors.com
rotors are one of the biggest issues with our cars because we have the same size as 4th gens with more weight and more power to stop. Remember, if u cheap out and not make the right decision, u gonna spend twice if not 3 times as much in the long run, not to mention the time wasted on labor.
I have seen TOO many stories of new rotors (whether stock and ESPECIALLY aftermarket) get warped within less than 1k miles or a little after....worst feeling is making an investment and not seeing its value. I have high quality drilled AND slotted rotors from a very strong company called Racing Brake that supplies many other high level companies. I also have hawk pads which tend to squeek sometimes but recently having given me any issues. I also see dust form but it takes a while. Either case, my rotors have no warped on me at all and i have put between 10 and 15k miles on them. Very happy with them and if u need just blanks, u can get them cheaper. Many fear drilled rotors crack under a lot of pressure but its mainly because of the quality of the rotors.
My strongest recommendation is RB rotors but either way, through my mistakes in the past, i know what u can get into if u dont do this right. It's not like spark plugs or an oil change anyway, u dont want to keep doing this job. Its messy, time consuming and just a PITA. Good luck wit your choice and if u have any questions about RB rotors, holla @ me or swoods@racingbrake.com <~!~ if need be, let him know i recommended you.
I have seen TOO many stories of new rotors (whether stock and ESPECIALLY aftermarket) get warped within less than 1k miles or a little after....worst feeling is making an investment and not seeing its value. I have high quality drilled AND slotted rotors from a very strong company called Racing Brake that supplies many other high level companies. I also have hawk pads which tend to squeek sometimes but recently having given me any issues. I also see dust form but it takes a while. Either case, my rotors have no warped on me at all and i have put between 10 and 15k miles on them. Very happy with them and if u need just blanks, u can get them cheaper. Many fear drilled rotors crack under a lot of pressure but its mainly because of the quality of the rotors.
My strongest recommendation is RB rotors but either way, through my mistakes in the past, i know what u can get into if u dont do this right. It's not like spark plugs or an oil change anyway, u dont want to keep doing this job. Its messy, time consuming and just a PITA. Good luck wit your choice and if u have any questions about RB rotors, holla @ me or swoods@racingbrake.com <~!~ if need be, let him know i recommended you.
RPT rotors from Jason (AutoMax) and pick up a set of Hawk HPS pads from a website of your choosing FTW. Make sure to bed them in properly as soon as you install them. You will not be disappointed. By the way, Jason is a great seller and gives great customer service. People have said that Axxis pads dust like a **** and are loud (squeaky) as hell. Good luck on your decision.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,617
From: Detroit Metro Area
Originally Posted by joeyd
i have the zinc plated rtp rotors from jason...they havent rusted at all..and still look great...
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 53
I've put some Brembro blanks on last summer, because the last rotors were warped. It's starting to do the same problem RIPGRANDMA posted. Glad I read this thread, I was starting to think something was wrong with MY car, now I see it's a maxima-wide issue....
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 79
Originally Posted by LoSt180
I was starting to think something was wrong with MY car, now I see it's a maxima-wide issue....
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 22
From: Barstow,CA.92311
ive been away from this forum for quit some time and dont have very many post, but the ones i chose were the I-rotors drilled and slotted w/zinc platting and EBC yellows for the front and greens for the rear with Crown Performance steel braided lines.
I went w/ Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads on all 4 corners to replace my warped OEM setup. The new setup is quiet, smooth, and produces very little dust. Only around 5k on the new setup, but so far I'm pleased. My only complaint is the Hawk pads lack bite when cold but warm up within a minute or so.
WEll i purchased the R1 racing rotors and brakes.....they are drilled and slotted and boy do they stop on a dime and hasnt warped yet, but i only have around 5-6k on them now though...but for 186 bucks for all 4 rotors AND brakes? good buy.
Guys, thinking about getting Brembo blanks & Hawk HPS's. This may be a dumb question, but are the Brembo blanks any bigger than the OEM rotors?
Also, anybody have an opinion on the Zinc plated rotors? Does it look any different & do they really keep your rotors from rusting up?
Also, anybody have an opinion on the Zinc plated rotors? Does it look any different & do they really keep your rotors from rusting up?
Originally Posted by clayman88
Guys, thinking about getting Brembo blanks & Hawk HPS's. This may be a dumb question, but are the Brembo blanks any bigger than the OEM rotors?
Also, anybody have an opinion on the Zinc plated rotors? Does it look any different & do they really keep your rotors from rusting up?
Also, anybody have an opinion on the Zinc plated rotors? Does it look any different & do they really keep your rotors from rusting up?
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 36
From: Silicon Valley, CA
Where is the best place to buy Brembo blanks? My brakes are pretty noisy and a little sketchy on abrupt stops... thinking probably best to replace everything.
My Max has 74k on it of reasonably calm driving... should expect to replace my rotors at this point in time on the Maxi?
Oh, another thing... can you find 2002-2003 Brembos? It seemed that some websites said they had them and some didn't have rears...
My Max has 74k on it of reasonably calm driving... should expect to replace my rotors at this point in time on the Maxi?
Oh, another thing... can you find 2002-2003 Brembos? It seemed that some websites said they had them and some didn't have rears...
Originally Posted by duderiffic
Where is the best place to buy Brembo blanks? My brakes are pretty noisy and a little sketchy on abrupt stops... thinking probably best to replace everything.
My Max has 74k on it of reasonably calm driving... should expect to replace my rotors at this point in time on the Maxi?
Oh, another thing... can you find 2002-2003 Brembos? It seemed that some websites said they had them and some didn't have rears...
My Max has 74k on it of reasonably calm driving... should expect to replace my rotors at this point in time on the Maxi?
Oh, another thing... can you find 2002-2003 Brembos? It seemed that some websites said they had them and some didn't have rears...
I just ordered a set for 90.80 shipped
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=512135
Check OUT http://www.importrp.com
I bought my brembo blanks there. Real good price.
55 for the fronts and 40 for the rears.
Can't beat that...
I bought my brembo blanks there. Real good price.
55 for the fronts and 40 for the rears.
Can't beat that...
