location of vacuum hoses?
location of vacuum hoses?
well the other day i figured out my idling problem... it was a vacuum line. how many of these are there and where are they located. anyone have some pics?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,323
From: EU Scandinavia
Originally Posted by twinkle
there shoudl be a vacume diagram on your hood, at least there is one on both of mine 93 GXE and 93SE
Another joke may be found at www.autozone.com ;free login to childton manual
Some pics can be found at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
...for Real info, view bottom of page.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,114
From: Ontario, Canada
Look: The FSM EC section lists several vacuum hose repairs as remedies to various problems like knocking, rough idling, stalling etc. They also mention where the related hoses are. You can go from there.
From my recent experience the following hoses need to be replaced (all 4 mm ID): 3 or 4 around the power switch; one at the EGR valve; 3 or 4 around the IACV and they are the hardest to get at; 2 go to the black cylinder on the strut tower near the brake booster; 3 smaller ID at the heater valve in the middle of the firewall.
The PCV hose and break booster hoses should also be replaced. They are quite expensive though. The break booster hose is 3/8" ID and you can use generic fuel line. I dunno the ID of the PCV hose and the two other: between the intake and IACV and between the throttle body and front valve cover. It's a good idea to replace them all.
Once you are done with that, you should adjust your idle RPMs using the procedure from the FSM: turn the diag mode screw on the ECU all the way clockwise, use the IACV valve screw to set the idle RPMs at 700 and rotate the ECU screw back counterclockwise. The RPMs should be 750. Drive about 50 miles and repeat the adjustment, as the ECU will collect new statistics about the engine and change the idle RPMs slightly.
Almost forgot: to get to the most of the hoses you will need to remove the airbox and the battery plus the battery tray. This is a good opportunity to fix your grounding points too.
From my recent experience the following hoses need to be replaced (all 4 mm ID): 3 or 4 around the power switch; one at the EGR valve; 3 or 4 around the IACV and they are the hardest to get at; 2 go to the black cylinder on the strut tower near the brake booster; 3 smaller ID at the heater valve in the middle of the firewall.
The PCV hose and break booster hoses should also be replaced. They are quite expensive though. The break booster hose is 3/8" ID and you can use generic fuel line. I dunno the ID of the PCV hose and the two other: between the intake and IACV and between the throttle body and front valve cover. It's a good idea to replace them all.
Once you are done with that, you should adjust your idle RPMs using the procedure from the FSM: turn the diag mode screw on the ECU all the way clockwise, use the IACV valve screw to set the idle RPMs at 700 and rotate the ECU screw back counterclockwise. The RPMs should be 750. Drive about 50 miles and repeat the adjustment, as the ECU will collect new statistics about the engine and change the idle RPMs slightly.
Almost forgot: to get to the most of the hoses you will need to remove the airbox and the battery plus the battery tray. This is a good opportunity to fix your grounding points too.
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hayne
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Oct 5, 2015 11:53 AM