Is my alternator dead? Car starts and runs fine so i assume that is only because i have a brand new optima battery.
can anyone confirm that Battery/brake light means dead alternator?

i am probally going to do this myself i can get the alternator brand new from nissan for $193 (cost).
i have been looking at the hot to's and probally going to use the
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/500
is this good ?

 

u need an alternator.....happends all the time...autozone has alternators OEM isnt always the best

 

OEM in this case is actually cheaper than autozone.

 

hey i have the same problem and there is nothing wrong with my alt i went to 5 different places and they couldnt figure it out, it could be a short of some kind, i have been riding with them on for almost two months, they were on when i went to your house zack

 

no my alternator is dead when i unhook the negitive terminal of the battery with the car running it dies which means the alternator isn't doing anything and it is relying on te power of the battery.

 

ic ic i guess my car is just weird

 

anyone have tips to share on replacement?

 

There was a recall on maxima alternators a couple years ago, if it had never been in for the recall, stealership may replace it for free. Worth checking into.

 

Yes Zack, those where the signs I got when mine was dying. You can find a much cheaper one at an autoparts store or a junkyard.

 

Tools needed:

6" extension
12mm socket
14mm socket
wrench

You'll have to remove the bolts on the A/C compressor so you can move it out of your way at will. This will help removal and installion easier. The bolts are 14mm and there are four. Next disconnect the harness to the Alternator and also the ground (12mm). The bottom bolt/rod is 14mm and then there is a top screw that is 12mm.

 

I got nissan OEM replacement altenator. It was $200. any other tips? what about loosing the belts?

 

Yes, actually you'll have to remove the idler pulley to access the lower bolt on the Alternator better. Just remember how the idler pulley goes back together.

To remove the idler pulley:

-Loosen the 12mm idler pulley bolt
-Loosen the tensioner bolt on top to loosen the belt.
-Take off the belt completely. If you forget how it goes back on, there is a sticker on the hood that shows the belt diagram.
-Remove the 12mm bolt on the idler pulley.
-remove washers and pulley

To reinstall after you get the alternator back on:

-put the idler pulley back together
-finger tighten the 12mm bolt that holds in the idler pulley
-install belt
-adjust the tensioner bolt on top to tighten belts
-torque down the 12mm bolt that holts in the idler pulley

The reason why you don't torque down the 12mm bolt that holds in the idler pulley first is because it'll be too tight to allow the tensioner bolt to actually do its job of moving the idler pulley up/down.

 

Yeah dont lose any of the parts from the idler pulley. I think I forgot to put a bushing or something on it and now it sounds like a rattlesnake when I accelerate

 

Yikes!

The idler pulley should go in in this order:

Tensioner
long washer
idler pulley
small washer
black metal plate
12mm bolt

 

ZACH there is a recall on the 99 alternators...hooray for you!

 

He already purchased it, lets just hope the dealer will allow him to return it

 

no there isn't its on 99 altenators. show me where it says 99 please.

 

i did it...just finished
i didn't remove the tensioner, i just loosed it and slid it up and down accoringly. got everything back together and my brake/battery light went away so i know everything works. It may just be in my head but the car does sound louder and i thing i can hear a faint squek/high picted noise from near the belt area. i will see how it goes.