so i just got my alpine type r sub..it was sucha steal that i had to buy it ($80 bucks) i m thinking about building a 1.75 cu ft ported box for it.. if you guys have any plans i can use, that would be awesome

thanks

 

just curious... is it dvc 2, or dvc4?

 

Your best bet is to build it to alpine specs. See if you can find measurements somewhere on their site or in the sub's manual (I got mine right out of the JL manual that came with my sub). If you can't find them, I can give you the measurements I used. My box has an internal volume of 1.75 cu ft (after port volume and sub displacement) and the port is tuned to 30.8 hz.

 

im not sure what dvc2 or dvc4 means..but its the new one..with the lines around it..its pretty nice.

jdogg do you have pics of your box?

 

actually i keep hearing things that these subs are better sealed..so im might build a nice sealed box for it..so it sounds clean

 

It's the model number and whether it's dual voice coil at 2 ohms or 4 ohms.

 

80 bucks for a 2k5 type r 12 is a good deal...stolen?

 

na my friend bought it and then he decided that he wanted JL's so he sold it to me.its brand new..this kid is just spoiled and dumb

but i could really use some plans for a sealed 1.0 cu.ft box if anyone has any idea, that would help a lot

 

well what sorta bass are you looking for?

 

also what amp and power...you need to figure out if its a dvc 2 or dvc4 in order to wire it properly.

 

okay im looking for clean deep bass..so im pretty much sure on sealed..the amp will be mono 500 watts rms..either alpine..kenwood or pioneer amp..the sub is dual voice coils 4 ohms

 

clean deep bass? if you want to go deep with a sealed box, it'll have to be larger than usual so the sub can play lower. i'd go ahead and put it in a ported box, tuned low if you want any sort of SQ.

 

yeah, I could send you some. what's you email since I don't have anywhere to host.

 

so if the recommended sealed box volume is .7 to 1.0 cu ft..can i build a 1.25 cu ft sealed box and get low and clean bass? id much rather have sealed than ported for this particular sub

 

yeah, you can do that. but remember, the larger the box, the less power it takes to make a sub reach it's limit. in other words, power handling is enclosure dependant.

 

yeah 1.25-1.5 even would be ideal for what you are looking for...just make sure you dont bottom out the suspension.

 

bottom out the suspension? what exactly does that mean man?

 

when you go past the mechanical limits of the suspension...i assume based on past alpine type r designs you will hear this before it occurs.

 

hmm i see, well i most likely will build a 1.25 cu ft sealed box..and it will be just a square i suppose..damn i tried looking all over google and caraudio.com and i cant find a picture or plans..also the amp will be around 400-500 watts rms

 

http://www.bcae1.com/
try link 110...its very very easy to figure out a 1.25 cuft sealed box. give us rough dimensions if you need help.

 

damn thanks a lot slick..that site is really helpful

 

anytime...it really is a great site.

 

hey so i used that program and made a 1.254 cu ft box..but i read somewhere something about the volume that the sub takes up inside the box? do i have to change the size of the mdf boards for that? or could i just go by the size the program gave me? or is it all the same?

edit: also does it matter if i make the box really wide then semi high and not so deep..or if i made the box really deep and not that wide? will it sound the same or which one is ideal?

 

yeah, so you'll have to make the box a little bigger to compensate for the displacement of the sub.

 

how much bigger? like if i want a 1.25 cu ft then i should just build a 1.35?sorry for bugging you guys..but i dont want to build a messed up box that will sound like shiit

 

That site's the ish.

 

"also does it matter if i make the box really wide then semi high and not so deep..or if i made the box really deep and not that wide? will it sound the same or which one is ideal?"

come on guys i really need this question answered..im going to buy the material tommorow

 

no, doesn't matter what shape it's in as long as the interior volume is met.

 

awesome thanks so much everyone

 

so i build a box today and it turned out to be 1.619 cu ft...and the recommended is 0.7 to 1.25 for sealed..is this too big? or is it nice if i get a little less powerful amp? i mean the difference isnt THAT huge..i might go with 400 rms instead of 500 now since the box is pretty big..can this be bad for the sub and should i trim it down?

 

what are the dimensions of the box? also, after you put in the sub, internal volume will go down a bit.

 

It's just a recommendation, you may like it in the 1.6. If not, add some bracing, internally, to eat some space. Sealed enclosures are the most forgiving. Or you could add a 3" diameter port, 10" long, to it. That will be tuned to 30 Hz, which you will likely be happy with. Plus you could build a plug for the port, if you wanted to go back to a sealed enclosure. 1.6 is probably a little smaller than the suggested ported box size for the sub, I'm guessing, though.

just an idea,

dh

 

man the box seems pretty big.. the length is 17.5" height is 16.7 and depth is 12" so it calculates to like 1.6 cu ft..but it deff looks pretty big..but the type r i got is a pretty big sub(almost 9" from magnet to top of sub)..maybe i should just leave the box this big? what do you think man

 

i got 1.47 cu ft from those dimensions you gave me. remember to take the thickness of the wood into consideration when you calculating

 

hmm nice man..i think ill leave it this way..ill take pics soon and show you how big it looks..hey but i have one more question..what exactly does it mean to "tune the box" does that mean adjust the amp or actually do something with the box itself?

 

It applies to ported enclosures only. Port size and box size determine tuning freq of the port, ie tuning the box.

dh

 

hmm sounds good thanks man..now all i need is a terminal cup and im set..if i can only find one around the local stores

 

drill a hole for the wire if you want to save time and $...

 

so a terminal cup doesn't do much then? and i guess i can just run the speaker wire directly from the sub to the amp

 

you can always use one if you want to. or you can drill a hole and snake the wire through it like slick said. but remember to seal up the hole after you're done though.