Did my first axel (driver's side) this morning,wasn't all that bad except the old one had totally lost a boot and the grease was everywhere. Anyway got everything back together and drove it and the steeering wheel wanted to go left and right under light acceleration. Is this an alignment thing now? The axel sure seemed to be the same one and really felt like it seated right and everything.

 

If you didn't touch any suspension components, it shouldn't be an alignment issue. The wrong axle will definitely cause noticeable torque steer, though. The VE's are not the easiest axles to acquire from your dealership, much less your local lackluster parts house. Make sure the entire length of the shafts is equal. Also, make sure the length of the splines is the same.

Edit: After considering your entire post, I'm not too sure it would be the incorrect axle. You state it pulls to the left and right as you are accelerating? How does it react without steering wheel input? Can you get in an open area and check that out?

 

I laid the axels side be side before installing the new one. The spline areas looked the same and overall it was the same length. I had heard of the different axel problem and was very careful at the parts place and even looked onto the screen with the sales guy. I did accellerate a little without holding onto the wheel and it wobbled back and forth very noticeably. The wheel moved several inches in each direction.

 

Have you checked to make sure the axle was seated properly? Did you remove the balljoints to do the job? Pull the wheel and make sure everything is snug.

 

It looked like the axel was firm up to the seal. I rammed it in there and felt it bottom out. I did not take the ball joints off to remove it. I held the assembly out of the way with one hand and jerked it free with the other. I can take another look but when I was done it sure all looked snug. Maybe I should have measured exactly the two axels. I visuallly inspected them side by side but maybe there is a mistake??? If I have to do it over at least it will already be clean.

 

I would hate to waste that time and find it wasn't the problem. However, there's something to be said for repetition. Plus, you'll be more likely to see if anything else is awry.

 

did you touch the control arms/knuckle/ballljoints/camber bolts at all? normally, after messing down there, I try to get an alignment (lifetime, firestone) but try and do everything all at once as well (axles, control arms, ball joints, struts, etc.. prolong it till i'm ready..)

 

Alignment DIY checkup is very easy, easier than writing here... After that u may zoom to possible other problems.

Check:http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/18

 

bhunter, i just did my driver's side axle today. i had a similar issue. i just walked back a few steps, redid the balljoint bolts, axle nut, wheel lugs, and control arm bolt (the one with bushing) it looked like the control arm bolt was the culprit, but either way: it went on once crooked, the next time perfect, without much of a noticeable change in the process... something was just not quite snug.
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I didn't take any of that stuff off or loose at all. I removed the wheel bearing nut, two upper bolts on the strut, three bolts on the bottom, and a hose clip from the brake, that's all.

 

EVER work I've done with my suspension or axles I went for an alignment.... I can't image a what to change an axle without an alignment.

 

If you have a VE, make 100% sure the axle you replaced is EXACTLY the same as the one you took out. Even though 99% of the VE maximas are VLSD, we all seem to get the non-VLSD axles. (ie.. shorter spline on the tranny side). You must measure the spline length as well as the total cv joint/axle length. If it's too short, it make it pull.

 

I plan on getting an alignment anyway, I was just wondering if the side to side movement could be caused by an alignment issue. As for what Jeff92se said, I think were the same as visually they looked alike, spline length and everything. The bad thing is now I already took the old AXLE (been spelling
it wrong all along WTF!) back for the core charge.
I am going to put the car back on the lift and see what is up.

 

Don't fret too much. Core returns are usually done once a week or every two weeks. That's at a store that has their stuff together. Let them know your predicament and have them search the back room for that part #. If they give you a problem, get the part # and manufacturer of the one you bought. Then I, or internetautomar, or another orger may be able to check to make sure it was the correct one for the application. But it could've been boxed wrong anyway, so focus on getting that core back. Good luck.