Hey Everyone,

I'm new to the modifaction game and I have a few questions.
I have a 1998 Maxima GXE. I upgrade the sturts and spings to Tokiko Strust, Eibach progressive Springs and rear sway bar. Do you have any suggestion regarding what would be the next modifaction for performance and handling. I was looking into getting Strut braces for front and back. What do you think?

Another topic: Which is better Super Charger or NOS. What type of wear on the engine should I expect. Since I'm racing at the moment I think NOS would be a cheap and quick way to increase the performance of the engine. If so is there an upgrade that should be done on my car before I think about the NOS or Super Charger? Any thoughts will be appreciated.

 

I'm speaking mostly from forum experience and not from actually working on my Max. Anybody, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Supercharger VS. NOS: I personally would preffer a SC over NOS because it's always there. I don't have to worry how full the bottle is, or where my RPM's are when boost hits. However, SC has more parts to break, is more expensive and if you run too small a pully and run too much boost, you'll blow your engine. The V2 kit, from what I've read, isn't as reliable as the V1 kit was, but you'll be hard pressed to find a used V1 kit that doesn't have too many miles on it. SC usually needs a fuel pressure gauge, and sometimes a heavier full pump, dependant on boost.

NOS is less expensive and easier to install. You can do a dual stage boost of 60/40 shot like Thomas has (sxr7). It's illegal to use NOS in some states, but not illegal to have. Racers tend to get more respect from running boost then they do for spraying. If you run too much NOS at the wrong RPM, bye, bye motor again. With a NOS, you can do either a dry or wet. Dry is easier to set up, but a wet is much more effecient power. (How am I doing so far guys?)

Dont' get a rear STB, you won't notice the difference. Only get the front STB. If you want to handle well, get at least 17" rims and some sticky tires. If you want to go fast quick, invest in some 15" balanced wheels with slics.

For now, just get your bar and get some exhaust work. Y-pip, b-pipe and high flow CAT. IF you go with a SC, get a 3" Y pipe and 3" high flow cat, otherwise, stick to the 2.5".

There's more, but I'm tired...

 

I had the V2 SC installed last October in my 1998 SE automatic and so far I've not had any problems with it. I had to replace the drive belt a couple of weeks ago when it started to squeal after a cold, wet winter.

I don't race with it but it's nice to be able to mash the pedal whenever you want it.

If you are getting an SC first find a reputable and competent shop that will do the install, unless you yourself are a very good mechanic. A shop with Vortech experience is the best.

Other things to think about/required:
transmission oil cooler,
Don's VB Mod upgrade (for automatics),
transmission is geared to handle 190 hp only (as per Daniel B. Martin),
requires synthetic oil,
warranty (Vortech says that it won't void the warranty but my Nissan dealership says otherwise),
boost gauge,
air/fuel gauge

 

I know a lot of people say they can't feel the difference with the rear strut tower bar, but I did. It was definitly worth it, if you are into handling. I put the front strut tower bar on first and man what a difference (everyone will tell you that cuz it's the best bang for the buck). I put the stillen rsb on next, then H&R's & Tokiko's. The last was the rstb which tied it all together. It keeps the rear even more planted, adding to the feel of the rsb. I definitly felt the difference with it, as soon as I pulled out of the driveway. It doens't make as big a difference as the front, but it does make a difference.