Well, here's my latest ... POP, Headers, Timing Advance ...



Darn stock IM ...

 

L-Spec ECU wouldn't hurt either.

 

Once again, killer #'s. I bet if you took the muffler off you would feel quite a gain up on the topend.

 

Yes, I'm wondering what has to happen up top, besides an IM ... Dyno dude said maybe I have to open the other end up .. But we'll see.

L-spec couldn't hurt, who knows what I must do maybe it's the throttle closing as stated by TS, or maybe my stock IM sucks, maybe my stock B-pipe and muffler are holding me back, who knows --->

 

Didn't ya dyno at 225 whp or something before? Where'd the extra 8 peak come from? Couldn't all be from the timing increase...

 

I dyno'd 219 with GAB+ headers

This time I used a Stillen POP, lost a little low end and gained some around 5.5k-5.9k along with the timing advance.

 

nice #'s...

 

Here's a comparison to a couple of my old dynos, and as can be seen, not only is there peak power, but also more area under the curve. I attribute this to the timing advance.

Again, all I have is headers, POP intake, and 17* timing advance. So the car essentially sounds stock.


I wanted to get a b-pipe, but think I will stay away ... doesn;t look like it will be needed and i want to keep the car as quiet as possible.

Another note, all runs were done with a mix (3:1) 91 and a little bit of race gas.

 

so do you have a baseline with JUST timing advance (and not the pop charger?)...that would put to bed E55 and other's skepticism about HP gains from timing advance.

 

The timing advance you get at the dealer wont do anything at WOT, becuase its only the base timing thts changed. If you have an SMT6 or SMT7 you can adjust timing and make power throughout the powerband. Also, he has mods to take advantage of the advance throughout the powerband (namely headers).

 

Very nice #s, now get yourself an ecu and lets shift that TQ curve to the right.

 

what are smt6 and smt7? I'm new to the foreign line of performance, I know the traditional muscle car V8's. Looking to make 03 max a little quicker- stay quite for highway and family driving. Any suggestions?

 

Also timing advance? please elaborate...any good ECM's to just switch out with stock unit or maybe an adjustable programmer??? enlighten me guys

 

POP????? what is that?

 

Damn, nice numbers!!!

You are where I was at and I HAD a SAFC II w/ mild tune. (it was 90 degrees outside and the shop had the garage door open).

Matter of fact that is great numbers with out being tuned and no exhaust mods. I am jealous. What headers are you using, cattman or hotshot? + what gear did you dyno in, D3 or D4? One more question, did you do any weight reductions?

strange. You have a gle which is basically the same as my car minus my heavy wheels and heavy motorized nav + about 30 pounds car weight vs your gle max. You have basically equaled my original dyno with i/h/e/p and I was tuned give or take 1whp.

What dyno machine did your shop use? and what was the temperature like?

Sorry for so many questions, I have to change my dyno shop and get another tuner. Seems like I can do way better than my 242-236 if your are at 233-231 with less mods.

 

Mod that bish....

Nice numbers BTW. Have you been to a track yet? I would be interested in seeing you run with a stock 6-speed just for reference.

 

damn grave diggaz!!!
My IM is modded, has been for over 1.5 years now.




That's what the CF is for.

Cattman, D3 found 2nd to work better. No weight reductions. Wont make a difference on the dyno. I need to update my freakin dyno though.
I have an SE, not that it makes a difference.

DJ 248C, 85.x degrees. Though it's SAE corrected.

 

I thought having headers w/o tuning with a piggyback will make the car run rich? How did your car do? Reason is I've always wanted to get headers, but don't want to spend more on a piggyback and tuning time.

 

My car was actually a tad lean, but that was readings taken from the tailsniffer with a stock cat.
Here's a link: Note, the red line is 13.0




My NB o2 readings are in the 0.91 - 0.93 range, so that indicates richness.

Even if you do run rich, you'll still make boatloads more power even without a tune.

 

For some reason when i was running rich, my car (I felt) was running faster until my dyno shop leaned out my A/F. There is another tuner shop around the way that I may start using since they mainly tune nissans. My original dyno shop usually do F/I cars and I was the first maxima/I35 they ever dynoed there.

 

So even w/o a tune, and the car runs rich, it is within safe margins? no long term harm?

 

Modded how? Please let me know pm me.


CF? I was going to say Carbon Fiber however you have none, so can you explain I am a noob.

I actually had different experiences from two different dyno machines. My last dyno was on a dynamometer and there was better software for tuning my car however the variables for "smoothing" my A/F was different since this machines usually made for Very high HP cars and I was the only maxima/I35 they had ever done. Matter of fact the guys were pretty shocked with my numbers because they thought I would be lower in #'s.

Another time I was on the floor model dynojet and I dynoed a little different. The new shop I am going to has the floor model and they mainly tune Nissan's so they may be able to figure out where my power robber is coming from (and maybe they can fix my o2 sensors since they been unplugged.)

 

Most people just install headers and exhaust and call it a day. I don't think that everyone on this site that has headers and exhaust has leaned out there A/F. Most are probably running rich.

I was NOT going to by an SAFC II until I found out that it does add more hp. Jaypee99 was running headers/I/E and was running in the mid 13's with out a tune for awhile. He just got tuned and his car is running even faster.

 

IM modding has been discussed before. Check the AM forum.

CF = correction factor.

Diffrent machines different days, both will give different numbers.


What power has been robbed?

 

Thanks alot, search is in progress I won't bother you.

I can't explain it. I am making more power however, the butt dyno doesn't feel that the car is doing anything different. I need to go to the track.

I need to also get my transmission checked out. When in D4, the tranny is shifting pretty bad from 2nd into 3rd and I mean a LONG lag in shift time. It may be bad from my forever gate-shifting from 2nd-3rd or my 3rd-2nd downshifting.

Whatever the case, I am going to have the new shop do a complete diagnosis of my car to see what's going on.

 

oh damn, I was expecting the curve to be shifted just a little more to the right

 

Look at the date on the original thread post # 1... Then we can talk.

 

LMAO!!!

WOW, I feel like a noob myself. Who brought up this old thread? I thought this was new since I see you active in these all motor forums.

 

wow...just wow...what can I say? I'm a genius!

 

I really need to get back on the dyno since adding a few more mods.

Just recently I have been using my logging software from my Wb o2 sensor.

I 'dyno' on the street using speed vs time as an indication of power gained since I have been lazy enough not to connect the actual wb o2 sensor just yet.

But just recently pissed off both my APPS and TPS so I have the high idle now. It might be because I bumped my idle too high, but my laptop has since been convulsing so I haven't 'bumped it back down' as of yet.

Also might be the addition of my midpipe since I went months w/o it connected. Now I'm just babbling.

 

Also timing advance? please elaborate...any good ECM's to just switch out with stock unit or maybe an adjustable programmer??? enlighten me guys

 

Not to be a *****. But all the information you've asked has been covered 10 fold around here.

Use the free search function.

This thread has good info ------> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=492413

And here too. Read all stickys before posting. http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=79