removed the intake and had at it with the VIAS. got the two on top with vise grip pliers. also managed to get the corner one behind the throttle body without too much problems. the last one beneath the VIAS was the impossible one. no way i could reach it with the vise grips and the screws are simply too soft to power it out with a screw driver. how in the world did you guys get it out????

btw, if you haven't tried this yet, just use vise grips from the beginning. don't try the screwdriver first cuz the screws are stuck real good and if you strip out the tops, you'll have a hard time tightening them back up when you finish.

 

use these for the lower one, I used it and it worked, bought it at Home Depot

 

hehe.... that's the exact same pair i got at home depot too.
couldn't get it in there horizontally. did you remove that bell shaped thing just below the VIAS?

 

nope... but if your screw is totally stripped then you will have to buy a screw remover from Sears and try to take it out. One last thng before you do that. If the screw is not all the way stripped try getting the biggest fla head you can get and push with all your body weight to see if youcan get it out

 

most philips screwdrivers you find are # 2 and not the right size for the screws. if you use a #3 philips they should come out w/o stripping

 

when you fix this on the car is there a noticable difference?

 

apparently, the valves are supposed to open up above 5000 rpm. with the VIAS busted, no go on the additional hp from the 4th gens so you're tooling around with 190hp. so no, i wouldn't think in normal city driving you'd notice. but above 5000 rpm, you'd be out 35 ponies. i, for one, want 35 hp for $5.

 

o ****zznit lol...i read the thread on fixing it but i guess i didnt pick that up cause im slow. I guess i better get on that tomorrow. yea i saw jb weld at home depot for like 5 bucks. thanks

 

like you i took out the top two and the side ones first, and left the bottom one for last. when i started to try to get it out and it was stripping, i realized that it would be impossible to get it out with the top two screws out...b/c the VIAS housing would be leaning over putting even more pressure on the bottom screw.

so i put the top two back in, then took out the bottom one, then the top two.
also when it started to strip, i took a hammer and beat a notch back into the screw with my screwdriver, then got it out.

 

how long do you got to let the jb weld dry,

is there certain angles you have to put everything back together at?

What type of jb weld, i seen that there is a few different kinds.
Can i do it in like 6hrs of take apart dry and put together on my day off or wouldnt recommend it?

 

when I did mine I let it dry for over 10 hrs......just to be 100% sure.......

 

I used the original JB Weld (not the Quick version of it) and I let it cure for more than 16 hrs. I opened the car in the afternoon and put it back together in the morning after. Just make sure that the spring sits properly in the center of the cup when you place it in.

 

You can use a phillips screwdriver to get those screws out. Here's what I did...

Next time you do something like this again, take a wide punch, rest it on the head of the screw and give it one big smack with a hammer like you're trying to drive a nail into wood. That will loosen it up before you attack it with a phillips screwdriver. The screw is steel and the threaded hole is aluminum. (or an alloy of aluminum) Over time the dissimilar metals will form a bond. Living in "the rust belt" like me doesn't help. By smacking the head of the screw you are breaking that bond BEFORE you mess up the head of the screw.

Just passing along what works for me..

 

i've found that a little lube helps too. just a drop or two at the base of the head and allow it to work its way in for few minutes. but those methods didn't work for my attempt. tried the smack too. that bugger was stuck.

 

'Course it helps to be 220+lbs and to "lean into" the screwdriver as you turn it.