concequences of driving with a bad cv joint for extended periods of time?
concequences of driving with a bad cv joint for extended periods of time?
I suspect that my passenger side CV Joint is shot. I hear/feel a clunking anytime I lock the wheel to the left or turn hard and apply weight at that corner. This noise has been happening for the last few months...I even drove my car on a 2000km round trip recently, and there was a pretty bad ticking noise after. What concequences do I face if I continue to drive the car like this? I am currently trying to source the parts such that I can replace it myself.
eventually you will hear the clicking noise when waking only small normal turns, and maybe when going in a stright line. Eventually I would think that the joint could break. If you want a quick cheap fix, you can buy a used axle off here (which is what I did when my boot tore) for about $40-$60 and then buy a $20 cv boot rebuild kit. Thats $80 and you will have a used axle that is good as new.
The joint will suddenly shatter and break and if this happens while you are driving, the consequences could be disasterous! You probably need a new axle at this point. I heard Napa has them for $80. Replacing the drivers-side axle is not that hard. Replacing the passenger-side axle takes a bit longer because of the bearing support braket.
cv joints make a clicking/pinging noise, kinda higher pitched. you said a clunking noise when you make a tight turn. this could possibly be the top strut mount. that's what i had when my strut mount went. when the second one went, i was right on it. you can check the strut mount by opening the hood and looking at the top of the strut. the nut should be dead center in the rubber. if you shake the car sideways, you'll see the strut rod move in the mounting. check both sides just in case.
Wassup Ian,
How about tie rods? are they part of the axles or the control arms?
How about tie rods? are they part of the axles or the control arms?
Originally Posted by 96stillen_max
eventually you will hear the clicking noise when waking only small normal turns, and maybe when going in a stright line. Eventually I would think that the joint could break. If you want a quick cheap fix, you can buy a used axle off here (which is what I did when my boot tore) for about $40-$60 and then buy a $20 cv boot rebuild kit. Thats $80 and you will have a used axle that is good as new.
Had same problem, replaced the strut mounts and solved the problem. But the noise is coming back now only after ~1 yr, maybe the only solution is to get a coilover that comes with strut mounts.
Originally Posted by DennisMik
cv joints make a clicking/pinging noise, kinda higher pitched. you said a clunking noise when you make a tight turn. this could possibly be the top strut mount. that's what i had when my strut mount went. when the second one went, i was right on it. you can check the strut mount by opening the hood and looking at the top of the strut. the nut should be dead center in the rubber. if you shake the car sideways, you'll see the strut rod move in the mounting. check both sides just in case.
Originally Posted by DennisMik
cv joints make a clicking/pinging noise, kinda higher pitched. you said a clunking noise when you make a tight turn. this could possibly be the top strut mount. that's what i had when my strut mount went. when the second one went, i was right on it. you can check the strut mount by opening the hood and looking at the top of the strut. the nut should be dead center in the rubber. if you shake the car sideways, you'll see the strut rod move in the mounting. check both sides just in case.
Very possible that my strut mounts are worn...especially after removing/installing them over 3 times now with 3 different springs. I will definitely check this out...i never thought that piece would fail. I already changed my upper strut bearings because I thought that was where the noise was coming from originally.
Originally Posted by kingrukus
Very possible that my strut mounts are worn...especially after removing/installing them over 3 times now with 3 different springs. I will definitely check this out...i never thought that piece would fail. I already changed my upper strut bearings because I thought that was where the noise was coming from originally.
I did the exact same thing. Replaced the bearings. Didn't help. Then had to pull everything off again to replace the mounts! What a pain!
Well, kids, if you are considering new struts and springs be smart and change EVERYTHING the first time! I've learned my lesson! Learn from us fools!
That's exactly what I did when I replaced the struts and springs. The bearings are a bit pricey but you can get better prices from Pinnacle Nissan. I saved about 40% instead of getting it from a local stealership. And while you are down there, change those boots as well, it'll save your new struts from the elements. By this time, I have new CV boots, new rack and pinion bellows, new strut bearings, and suspension.
Originally Posted by TrackSmart
Well, kids, if you are considering new struts and springs be smart and change EVERYTHING the first time! I've learned my lesson! Learn from us fools!
If its clicking while turning its your CV joint/axle. Very easy way to check is to see if the dust boot is torn or if theres play in the axle. And if the dust boot is torn, replace the entire axle, not just the boot, its likely damaged and it wont be long before you have to replace the whole thing so might as well do it right the first time.
Bad thing that could happen if you drive on a bad axle too long is that it could sieze. Not good especially if your on the freeway.
Bad thing that could happen if you drive on a bad axle too long is that it could sieze. Not good especially if your on the freeway.
Originally Posted by DennisMik
cv joints make a clicking/pinging noise, kinda higher pitched. you said a clunking noise when you make a tight turn. this could possibly be the top strut mount. that's what i had when my strut mount went. when the second one went, i was right on it. you can check the strut mount by opening the hood and looking at the top of the strut. the nut should be dead center in the rubber. if you shake the car sideways, you'll see the strut rod move in the mounting. check both sides just in case.

Here's your problem buddy: Aftermarket mounts are one-piece. This makes them much easier to buy and install. Nissan has a multi-piece mount.
Basically, parts 1,2,4,5,6 could be considered part of the strut mounts. Just buy the KYB mounts. They are cheap, work well, and are easy to install. Monroe also makes a strut mount kit that includes the strut bearings. Haven't used the Monroe one, but that should be alright, too.
I got my KYB strut mounts from Tirerack.com . They came with Strut Bearings in the box, too! Great deal for $30 each!!!
Basically, parts 1,2,4,5,6 could be considered part of the strut mounts. Just buy the KYB mounts. They are cheap, work well, and are easy to install. Monroe also makes a strut mount kit that includes the strut bearings. Haven't used the Monroe one, but that should be alright, too.
I got my KYB strut mounts from Tirerack.com . They came with Strut Bearings in the box, too! Great deal for $30 each!!!
Damnit...so if I were to go the oem route, since there is a bunch of seperate pieces, it would probably be exponentially more expensive than an aftermarket route. I just replaced my strut mount bearings like 2 months ago, and so I would rather keep them than go the aftermarket route...hmm.
[kingrukus]Can you please tell me which # in the following diagram is exactly the strut mount? Nissan labels their parts differently as follows:
when i went to the dealership, all i wanted was #2 but i got #1, #2 & #3 as an assembly. with sales tax it was $43 (i think). the unit has one side marked "out side" so watch the old one for the marking when you remove it. it was a p.i.t.a to take out because i couldn't get the nut on the top of the strut off and the bearing made for tight clearances.
when i went to the dealership, all i wanted was #2 but i got #1, #2 & #3 as an assembly. with sales tax it was $43 (i think). the unit has one side marked "out side" so watch the old one for the marking when you remove it. it was a p.i.t.a to take out because i couldn't get the nut on the top of the strut off and the bearing made for tight clearances.
Originally Posted by kingrukus
Damnit...so if I were to go the oem route, since there is a bunch of seperate pieces, it would probably be exponentially more expensive than an aftermarket route. I just replaced my strut mount bearings like 2 months ago, and so I would rather keep them than go the aftermarket route...hmm.
Dude, for $30 each you get the mounts from TireRack.com. Yes it comes with the bearings, but you don't need to use them! $30 is less than the dealer charges for the mounts. Buy them. Then give the bearings away to someone who needs them and save them $30 (that's what the dealer charges for them).
By the way, the aftermarket parts are fine.
Originally Posted by TrackSmart
Dude, for $30 each you get the mounts from TireRack.com. Yes it comes with the bearings, but you don't need to use them! $30 is less than the dealer charges for the mounts. Buy them. Then give the bearings away to someone who needs them and save them $30 (that's what the dealer charges for them).
By the way, the aftermarket parts are fine.
By the way, the aftermarket parts are fine.
Originally Posted by kingrukus
Ah so the strut mount bearing can be removed from the KYB set then? That is perfect, I will just keep the KYB bearings until the OEM ones fail then, and then swap those in.
Yep. If you actually look at the parts, it will all become clear. Read this How To and look at the photos. And bookmark that website, it's very useful:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
here's a picture of the bearing:

Originally Posted by TrackSmart
Yep. If you actually look at the parts, it will all become clear. Read this How To and look at the photos. And bookmark that website, it's very useful:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
here's a picture of the bearing:


http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
here's a picture of the bearing:


I definitely know what the bearing looks like as I have had to purchase them from a local dealership and replacethem before. I just wasnt sure whether or not the KYB piece was somehow integrated into the rest of the strut mount.
If you need a strut mount, I have a brand new, never installed, Monroe brand that was purchased at Pep Boys. I didn't feel like waiting for just a strut bearing to be shipped to me so I bought the kit. I just needed to get the bearing that I destroyed somehow after installing new struts then a week later installed new springs. I'll let it go for $22 shipped if you want it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lakersallday24
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
14
Nov 7, 2024 07:31 PM
kjlouis
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
11
Nov 24, 2018 06:09 AM
soon2ownmax
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
0
Aug 13, 2015 02:19 PM




And the tow truck seriously messed up his front bumper loading it up. Lol. I told him not to buy that eclipse...
