4th gen motor, FSM says to remove the crank pulley first but I can't figure out how to wedge something against it to remove the bolt, nor do I have a pulley puller.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...6&postcount=51
It is the same for the 3.0.

The one on my 3.5 came off by hand; I did not need a puller.

 

You probably don't need a puller if you can get the bolt off; mine came off by hand without too much trouble once the bolt was removed. Do you have air tools? Is this engine out of the car? What about locking the flywheel from the other side... any possibilities there?

EDIT: the pic Eng92 posted... that's exactly what I was thinking of (just beat me to it). Or If the engine's still in the car another option is to put it in 5th and get someone to hold the brake down hard while you crack the bolt.

 

Engine is out of the car, no flywheel on it, no air tools, the bolt is my biggest worry. I've heard it's a tough one and with the engine out of the car and no flywheel I don't know how to exert any sort of pressure on it without turning the entire rotating assembly.

I've got the FSM in hand and it's no help (I don't think they intended you to pry against the teeth on the flywheel anyways, I get the impression that they are using that pic to illustrate how to lock the rotating assembly so that cylinder 1 doesnt leave TDC after you have the bolt cracked loose. that's the impression I got from it). Even so, I would try that if I had the flywheel on it but I don't, and I threw the flex plate away weeks ago

 

sorry, but that bolt has to come off some how because there is no way to remove the timing chain cover without taking off the pulley.

i know that because i'm doing mine right now. getting the water pump replaced=150kmiles.

 

Yep found this out for myself and came in to post it incase anyone else ever wonders. There are two dowel built into the timing chain cover that go into corresponding holes in the block. You can't remove the timing chain cover without removing the crank pulley because with the crank pulley in place, you can't pull the timing chain cover out far enough from the block to get the dowels out. The crank pulley keeps the cover pressed against the block to snugly.



Soooo that brings me to this. How the heck do you get the crank pulley bolt loose on a motor that is out of the car and has no flywheel (thus nothing to brace against), because if I just put a socket on there and spin it, the entire rotating assembly (crank, pistons and rods) rotate.

 

yeah, sucky for you, i really dont know, maybe tilley can chime in on this. i had mine taken off with the engine still in bay. did everything in the mech shop. they run the game, i watch, help, and learn...

 

Three possibilities come to mind:
1) Call a local tire place that does roadside repairs. They will have an onboard compressor and impact gun.
2) Rent an electric impact gun. Personally I have not had the greatest luck with these. They generally do not have the break loose torque required.
3) I would take a piece of flatbar, say 1/4 x 2, and drill 3 holes in it. Two bolts into the end of the crank and one into one of the tranny mounting holes.

 

It was nearly IMPOSSIBLE for me to loosen that bolt by hand, even with a flywheel on it, and having a friend hold it in one spot..

Best bet is to get a hold of an air impact gun... This sucker will remove the bolt without breaking one sweat.

 

That's why I asked if you had air tools. MUCH better in a case like this.

 

I need to upgrade my tool situation. Maybe it's time to go drop a few hundred on a compressor and impact. I've had a couple other ideas on how to do it too that I will try when it's less than 100 degrees out. Thanks for the help guys.

 

I had to do the same thing on a motor that was removed and i rented an electric impact gun with over 550 lb-ft of torque, 3/4" drive. It took it off with NOOOOOO problems.

 

You can try this. Put a socket and a breaker bar to it. Hold it it place and then WHACK it with a big heavy hammer. See if you can wedge a piece of wood inbetween the pully and case. If you get lucky, you can apply a fairly large shock to the bolt and get it loose before the bolt turns much. If not, you might try renting an electric impact gun if you can find one.

 

What size socket do you need for the crank pulley bolt?

Does anyone know the thread and pitch of the bolt for the pulley puller that go into the pulley?

How well does a standard Snap-on pulley puller fit in the confined space? Once the pulley is pulled out does it slide out easily? It seems like it would be a tight fit because of the frame. Do you have to jack the engine up a little bit?

 

19 mm
I have removed two crank pulleys from VQ engines and a puller was not required in either case.

 

thanks eng92,

The crank pulley bolt isn't reverse threaded is it?

Does anyone know the tightening torque on this bolt?

Thanks

 

No it is a standard right hand thread. (very fine pitch though)

Tightening is an intial 30 ft-lbs to set everything up solid. You then tighten it an additional 60-66 degrees. (The bolt head has 60 degree marks to make this angular measurement easy)

Make sure you oil the threads and the back of the bolt head flange before you install it. (less friction makes for less elbow grease required)

 

I would suggest upgrading your tool selection because you will always finding yourself using it. It will not be wasted money.

 

Is the crankshaft bolt torque to yield? Should it be replaced?

Note: Man that thing is a bugger to get off! I think I need to go back to the tool room and get a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket + 2-ft extension. I have never used stuff that big! The 1/2 inch drive is not cutting it.

 

Okay I just got my crank pulley and I see that it does not have bolt holes for a puller.

My puller will not work so hopefully it will slide off like it did for other people.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4563879176

I guess it is okay to re-use the crank pulley bolt?????

Will the pulley come out of the car once the bolt is out? By this I mean; do I have to take anything off to fit the pulley past the frame?

These are the only two things I need to know before I attempt this. When I start I really need to finish because of where i will be doing this work.

Thanks in advance.

 

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f4967.jsp

 

well the first thing that came to my mind was putting a wrench on the cam. like the same way the cam gears/bolts are removed. well this would wok as long as the chain is still good.

 

jesus, don't you guys know what a heavy-duty strap wrench is?

 

is jesus here?

neal is no dummy maybe he has tried that. but a better tool would be a chain wrench.

 

Not sure I'd really want to stress the cams that much. I've broken a few junk cams by messing with them. Cam bolt? Fine. Crank bolt?

 

A good rubber strap wrench is more than sufficient. That's what i used to hold the pulley while i torqued the bolt down to 35 lb-ft then tightened an addition 60*. It can handle it.

 

well just throwing out some ideas