I have to get my car inspected this coming Wednesday, and I had a few questions. Before all else: all maintenance is up to date (plugs, filters, pcv valve, clean tb/iacv, etc.); my only possible emissions hindering modification is a hacked air box (which really means nothing). All other mods are listed below.
I have NO codes, my last one being my knock sensor code which was replaced a while back. I have driven literally thousands of miles since last clearing the codes.
I DO, however, have an exhaust leak or two, one occuring probably before the cat, the other probably after the cat. My question is this: will I fail emissions if I have an exhaust leak? It is just a hiss, by the way.
Just want to know what I'm going into before paying the $20 for the test.
Thanks in advance.

 

yes, you'll fail..

 

yes ofcourse

 

I just had my 98 done, failed because of a CEL light, but that is a different story. They no longer hook up the probes to the exhaust, just hook up to the ECU, if you are not showing any codes, and the exhaust leak is not obnoxious, I don't know how you would fail. CT emissions is complete garbage.

 

Let me know how you make out, or if anyone else in CT has gone recently.

 

I did not check my codes before going in. I have a Warpspeed down pipe (no pre-cats), CAI, Greddy catback and one beat up normal cat. I felt a little nervous so I increased the octane in my tank with a few injector cleaners from Wal-Mart. I dumped in about four of those. Hotter the burn, the more pollutants it burns off. Mine passed with flying colors. I wouldn't suggest running your car like that everyday but for this situation from what I have learned you will not be causing any permanent damage. Just a suggestion.

 

MOTHERFKER!!!!!!

Today, I was coming home from a party, and my CEL comes on for the first time owning the car in a year (I had the KS ghost code, but nothing else), 4 fing days before I go to the emissions testing.

0104 - Vehicle Speed Sensor

SHT. I can't believe this. There's NO way of replacing this sensor, clearing the codes, and then driving the necessary 200 miles for the ecu to regain itself before this test. PLUS, now I have to drain all of my beautiful Redline MT-90 out, and get some new stuff in there. This is unbelievable.

 

The leak is not obnoxious, it's just a hiss, but you're sure they don't hook up the probe to the exhaust anymore?

 

i cleared my codes and took out my gforce ecu the day before testing. when he went to test my ecu nothing was stored since i cleared it 20 miles before hand and he had to use the tail pipe method of the old days.

 

if you have an exhaust leak, they obdII will show it. high o2.

 

best bet is to fix up your car and then go dont even play around with it. just fix the leak and clear the codes the min before you go to the test and they wont be able to do a obd test and will have to use the exaust and you will pass it worked for me since my car was throwing a egr hi/low flow code

 

Why do you have to do all that? Just change the speed sensor. Reset the ECU and you should be set.

I've never heard anyone having to drive 200 miles after a speed sensor.

 

I replaced my 02 sensor Thursday night night, reset ECU, drove about 100 mil Friday, went first thing Sat. morning, actually hung around in the garage while the did the re-test, just hooked up the OBDII and it passed. No probe in the exhaust ar anything...

 

thats because of obd-II, if you have a 95, they run it on a treadmill instead with the little hose on the exhuast, at least in illinois

 

This thread is where I got that idea from clicky clicky --> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=420236

A car will fail emissions no matter what code is being thrown? I seem to have asbolutly NO driveability problems with my car throwing the vehicle speed sensor code, so I reset the light and 20 miles later, it came right back on. I will change the sensor, but getting ahold of Redline MT-90 locally, or any other GL-4 fluid is gonna be a pain.

 

Why do you have to drain the gear oil? The VSS sits right on top of the differential. 1 bolt, 1 connector and the thing pulls right out. You won't even loose a drop.

 

Am I thinking of the wrong sensor? It's not the one some people use to drain their manual tranny fluid if they can't get the drain plug off? Hold on, let me do a little more research....thanks for the clarification.

 

I30ds - thanks again for the clarification bro. I was thinking of the shifter sensor located on the underside of the transmission. How much should a vehicle speen sensor cost (damn you jerryrome for taking away the parts inventory search)

 

Last time I check the whole salers (pinnicle/scottsdale) were selling them for somewhere in the $100+ range... Like the KS its an expensive little bastard.

 

100 bones? Wow, for a part that hasn't changed the driveability of my car since it started to throw the code, that is damn expensive.

 

Yeah, my friend kept tripping it on his his 96... He just kept resetting it until one day it never came back...