Does what I have in mind make sense?

> reset the ECU before every run
> tune it with a SARD afpr
> tune it with a SAFC-II
> one program for NA
> another for nitrous shot that is controlled by JWT
> 4th gear (5sp manual)
> tune with the engine at operating temp.

I figure reseting the ECU puts it at a point I can always default back to.
I'll try to start tuning with hardware first, then software.
I figure I'll try to squeeze the most power out of the NA settings since I'm usually NA.
I'll do my best to keep bottle pressure consistent, I'll try to have a filled spare.
4th gear since that is the closest to 1:1, however, once turned in 4th, I want to get a run in each gear to see the power curve for that gear to help calculate shift points - this will be more accurate than doing the ratio/math, I think?
Operating temp since that's how it is when I'm driving. I'm interested in real world numbers.

I'm sure there's more but that's all I can think of now. Let me know. Thanks.

 

[QUOTE=Toolrocks]Does what I have in mind make sense?

> reset the ECU before every run
> tune it with a SARD afpr
> tune it with a SAFC-II
> one program for NA
> another for nitrous shot that is controlled by JWT
> 4th gear (5sp manual)

I was told that if you have a 5-speed, the dyno run should be done in 3th instead of 4th because it closer to 1:1. Only the 5.5gen with the 6-speed should really be done in 4th.

 

1st 3.285
2nd 1.850
3rd 1.206
4th 0.954 <--- Dyno gear
5th 0.759

 

I don't think it's necassary to reset the ecu after every run.

 

Thanks for the answers so far... Keep em comming.

 

I would not worry about reseting the ecu after every run. You should dyno in fourth...I cannot because I have a GXE with a speed limiter and it hits that before you get a full pull in fourth.

 

Do the speed limiter removal mod for the dyno

 

I'm a manual SE, I have no speed limiter and my fuel cut is supposed to be at 7500