i am thinking of getting these wheels. but what bolt paturn wold i need. they have 135mm,4.5, 5, 5.5, i know ours is 5-114.3 but would any of these bolt up to our cars. and i want to put these tires on them.

Do you think they would fit on my car?

 

ok i changed my mind. now im going with the nitto 555drag radials on my stock wheels. any input.

 

Nitto's are probably the worst of the DR's available for traction. I would go with BFG's or the MT's above.

 

i found some hoosiers that are 245-35-18. do you think they would fit the stock se wheels. the tires on my wheels are 245 45 18. but the hoosiers say they recommend at least a 8.5 rim width and ours are 7.5.

 

I might look into getting some radials for my stock wheels as well once I get some aftermarket wheels.

 

Metric system > you.
JK.
114.3mm = 4.5"

 

CORRECT!

But those rear wheel drive wheels would never fit any max. bolt pattern doesn't mean everything

 

who says they wouldn't fit? Fact is most RWD cars have lower offsets, which means even less worry about interference with suspension parts. As long as they aren't tucked under the fenders, you can have wheels that stick out as far as you want.

 

You really wanna run 26lbs each wheels for your drag wheels ? Find yourself a set of cheap 15" lightweight KOSEI K1 on Ebay or even some Rotas in your desired width and size. Throw on a set of BFG DRs and you will be set. Trust me those 18" Maxima wheels will affect your 1/4 time by quite a bit.

 

I believe the compound is not the same for rwd vs fwd slicks. That seems to be why M&H divides "sport compact" and "RWD slicks". I believe someone with a civic tried 26 slicks for RWD application and found they wouldn't hold worth crap. He sold them for cheap to a guy I know with an LT1 Caprice.

 

I say they wouldn't fit... Fact is most rear wheel drive wheels these days will work on fwd cars. If you look at these wheels you can see that the back spacing from the front of the wheel is only as thick as the wheel, You would have to use spacers to make the wheel work without the spokes going directly into the caliper. And yes you can have a wheel stick out as far as you want but when turning the tires would most likely rub on the inner fender.

 

I think you are confused. these wheels have a lower offset (less positive) which means they stick out further and would have absolutely no problem clearing the calipers. Fact is I've had RWD Weld drag wheels, almost identical to this design, bolted on my car and there was no issue whatsoever. Thanks for your speculation though

 

Welds must look wierd on a maxima... I guess you can afford to run those when you're running 11s.

 

The welds have some spacing between the hub and where the spokes start coming out. On the wheels of topic the spokes come directly off the hub. Unfortunately the offset doesn't mean everything. The design of the wheel is whats important. I agree you can use a wheel that will stick out 2 feet if you want but it has to have a little spacing from the hub to the spokes. This is why fwd steel wheels bubble out after the hub. Any thing is worth a test fit but I would highly reccomend not ordering from net just off of offset and bolt pattern.

 

It sure looks to me like the spokes on these wheels move outward, as in out away from the car, as they go from the hub to the outer lip. What is it about the design of that that you think will interfere with brake calipers? Wheels with too high an offset and incorrect backspacing, combined with inappropriate spoke design and width are what will contact the calipers. These wheels will not contact the calipers, the spokes are going away from the calipers.

 

Yes the spokes do angle out. And after looking at my hubs and calipers on my car it looks like it would be close. I guess it depends on the diamiter of the hub part of the wheel. they may work or at worst I'd say 1/8th inch spacer. I would still deffinately test fit first. I sell many wheels and have had many surprising problems.

No BBK though!