Is it worth getting an aftermarket FPR since I am getting the Ultimate E-manage soon (to tune A/F and timing)? I.E. is it worth getting both the UE and FPR or just the UE will do the job? I believe 2k2's normally run more fuel pressure (something like 43psi vs 53psi).

Setup (For the record):

VQ35DE w/VQ30 timing chain and ECU
Headers
Hi Flow Cat
Cattman catback
CAI
UDP
2002 Fuel Rail and injectors w/2k2 damper and 1995 fuel pressure regulator

Found one for 40$ here:

http://www.newircusers.com/store/rk2...san_Maxima.jsp

 

A/f ratio & MAF voltage % would probably be the determining factor.

 

I take it in english that means just buy the UE?

 

By-pass it or buy it

I'd get a dyno first ... Odds are you're not in a good state of tune for 1/4 mile runs, but only an a/f graph will determine that ...

I have a S-AFC-II, so maybe I should leave this thread ...

 

It's only 40 bucks... might as well get it. But what I want to know is whether or not having the emanage will eliminate the need for an aftermarket FPR...?

 

I would raise WOT fuel pressure to 53 PSI then tune. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

 

nismology, i like your car, its very clean looking.

 

So you think the 95's system can handle the 2k2's stock fuel pressure continuously?

 

returnless

 

Yes, one day I'll listen to everything you say right away and save some hassle, but I'm not quite there yet.

What would be required to make it returnless?

 

LOL, hey if I really didn't care I wouldn't try to help.

The definition of returnless only means that it does not return from the fuel rail. You can still use any external regulator you wish, mount it anywhere before the fuel rail and still have a returnless system. This would be anywhere between the fuel pump and the fuel rail. However the idea is to return as little engine heat to the fuel tank as possible. But if you want to go with the Nissan returnless fuel system you'll need the 2k2 fuel tank canister with built in regulator.


I just did a SSR Turbo kit on a SpecV and used the supplied regulator. I mounted it on the firewall and ran a return line from the regulator but I still kept the fuel rail returnless. Although if I had been the one to actually start this project I might not have used the stupid thing at all.

 

Does the fact that I'm using the stock 1995 fuel pump make a difference?

How can I keep the fuel from returning to the tank? I know this must be quite simple in theory, but I'd need some sort of "dam" even if I ran a line back to the tank that would basically serve no purpose at all.

If you simply seal the fuel rail, wouldn't there be too much fuel...

 

Fuel HAS to return to the tank. This is what confuses everyone. The only point of a 'returnless' system is to regulate the fuel pressure and return the excess fuel BEFORE it reaches the fuel rail.