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NEED HELP!!! Exhaust manifold to Y-pipe stud broke... ARGG!!!

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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 08:38 AM
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NEED HELP!!! Exhaust manifold to Y-pipe stud broke... ARGG!!!

I finally got to putting on the Y-pipe with a buddy the past weekend. As we were taking off the 6 exhaust nuts (3 per each stream) that hold the Y-pipe to the exhaust manifold one of the two end studs 'BROKE'; I guess b/c it was so rusted and weak or maybe we forced the nut too hard...

The dealer quoted me $357.74 for drilling out and inserting a helicoil repair kit.
I am thinking would it might be cheaper to find a used exhaust manifold and replace that along with the bolts/nuts instead or drilling out the stud and doing the helicoil repair kit myself b/c the kits don’t cost too much.

Anyone had this problem or know of a good shop in the Phila/NJ/DE area that does this cheaper? Better yet, how hard is it to drill out a stud and inserting a helicoil kit, or replacing the exhaust manifold?

Thanks for any input you may have!
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 08:39 AM
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Replace the manifold, you can get them dirt cheap just ask around.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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I would take the manifold out and drill it out (tap and dye), or just have a mechanic do it if it is feasable to take the whole manifold off.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 09:01 AM
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how much would it cost to remove the manifold? How much work is involved? It 'looked' like it requries a lot more work in removing other components in the way...
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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Do you think I can get away without using the 3rd bolt? I spoke with Dallas at Warpspeed and he mentioned that “IF” exhaust does not leak at the gap, then I might be able to get away with it since the two other bolts along with the crush ring 'may' hold tight enough... Any thoughts on that?
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 10:05 AM
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These might help.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...012691/c-10101
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Donald199
Thanks!
I was thinking of doing something like this too!! I just might go this route since it is cheapest and easiest to do by far, but how reliable are they? Anyone with experience on these?
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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umm....don't get me wrong...but isn't the y-pipe connected to the headers?? if so...isn't this a reason to by headers also??? i mean i nkow its going to be a PITA to do, but while you're taking the headrs out, might as well as replace them...-= )
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by PhillyDonut
Do you think I can get away without using the 3rd bolt? I spoke with Dallas at Warpspeed and he mentioned that “IF” exhaust does not leak at the gap, then I might be able to get away with it since the two other bolts along with the crush ring 'may' hold tight enough... Any thoughts on that?
I have been running the ypipe with a broken bolt (only 2 bolts holding the front) and it hasnt been leaking and runs fine for many years now. I was thinking of fixing mine but since its not leaking or anything I left it.
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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LOL. Friend of a friend referred me to this ghetto shop who will drill out and replace the stud for $50! Compared to $357.74 from the dealer

Gonna try to drill it out myself and if that fails and it leaks, then I'll resort to the shop. I may leave it as is if it doesn't leak.
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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do what maxgtr2000 said, get a tap and dye set, i had to use one for my cat
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by PhillyDonut
Thanks!
I was thinking of doing something like this too!! I just might go this route since it is cheapest and easiest to do by far, but how reliable are they? Anyone with experience on these?
IF your state has "safety inspections" - like in PA - better check with someone in the know as to whether or not such a clamp would be legal before you buy this.
They may take a dim view of any possibility of carbon monoxide seeping into the cabin while you are driving.
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