I was going to post this in the Electrical and stero thread, but there dosent seem to be anything there but " Whats a really cool 10in sub for like 20$" sort of stuff. Here's my issue, I'm powering my sub, fog lights, and an E36 conversion all right off my + terminal. Since I've wired the E36 I've seemed to have intermittent electrical problems. At first I blamed it in innsufficent ground. I do have Matt's Grounding kit + an additional 02 gauge body only ground, and a 00 gague main battery ground with the biggest ugliest terminal clamp I could find. So that aint the problem.

Well Saturday I went to leave work, and nothing. Car was dead. So I got a jump, figured I overtightened the Alty belt when I put on the UDP a coup[le weeks ago, and was thinking that was it. I dont have a multimeter, so I jumped my car again today and drove a block down the road to Advance and had them check the charging system. Lo-and behold the + clamp had so many leads on it even when it was tightened all the way it was still loose. Removed most of them and here is where my question is......


I'm thinking I should pick up secondary fuse block for the aftermarket stuff. So I'm looking for any advice on how you guys power your dozen or so aftermarket accessories. And/ Or If you have any experience useing additional fuse boxes.

 

I'd add in some relays and a fuse block personally

 

Already have relays galore high / low and fogs all on seperate relays, but wanna suggest a good fuse block setup??


ALSO---- What do the 2 extra + leads off the battery power anyway?

 

aftermarket battery terminals


something like this would be perfect:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SOUND-QUEST-BY-S...QQcmdZViewItem

 

What you need to do is go to a store that sells electrical equipment, and buy a compression type terminal lug. Then you need to buy an eyelet and a long nut and bolt that will fit the terminal lug.

Cut your + power cord about 2" from the battery terminal, and strip the terminal end of the cord. Use this 2" terminal end on the compression side of the lug. Now you have a cut end of the power cord that goes to the starter and fuseblock, use the ring eyelet on this end. Now you have a huge dedicated accessory lug with room for all your crimped/soldered eyelets!

 

just use a fuse box like this it cost $7 easy to install you pick it up at CSK Auto, Checker, Schuck's, and Kragen whatever you have in your local area






http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=30002

 

No 10$ multimeter? Then keep THE hood closed...

Give this secret pic & txt to smbdy that has one:

for txt clic on http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5

 

Got the hint, picking up a multi meter from work today.

Loco7 thats the exact fuse block I picked up.

Static, I like where your going.

 

I am happy! Good Luck for new multi meter (why its not called multifeet?)... Now we can speak of measurements, Volts, not feelins... Btw, do not tst measure Batt or Wall outlet resistance.

 

Cut power terminal attached to terminal lug

 

Sorry but I just wouldn't feel comfortable with that big thing sticking off my positive terminal :-/


I don't see why you would need a multimeter for this. You found out the problem is your not getting a good enough connection with your battery because you have added too many aftermarket wires to it and the terminal cannot close tight enough. To me, the only way that makes sense is if you are putting the new connections inbetween the 2 sides of the positive clamp that bolt together. Instead put them on the outside of the clamp, or just buy a new clamp.

I don't have a multimeter and I feel safe to say I've done some of the most electrical figiting/bs on these cars. Some things require a multimeter, but this doesn't as he already knows the problem. Saying keep the hood closed is a bit harsh.

 

as the other guys said..
buy a good +12 battery terminal.
run your stereo off the largest opening- I'm asusming you have a 4awg or so wire going to the system.

hook the factory crap to the middle opening. just strip them all off and shove them all into one. clamp it down, then hit them with some shrink wrap or electrical tape to hold them all together so there's not much stress on the wire ends themselves.

Now run a dedicated chunk of 8 awg wire over to an exteral fuse block. you can then hook up your lights and etc to those fuses and it's done.

 

Multimeter is the Very BASIC if the title is like "Powering aftermarket accessories sort of long". The 'hood closed' -reflects this used title. There are also other tools, tapes, solder etc. equipment that is a basic requirement for proper accessory installation ...if hi-way fire-party is not the goal...

Truth is never liberal, very often plain shocking: If smbdy wants to keep DIY maxima running, that smbdy is kidding himself w/o this basic 10$ 'investment'. With 60's VW u may measure with wire, fingerfeelin for temp. NOT maxima.

 

Barely being able to understand what you are saying, he does not need a multimeter if he has already determined that the problem is the battery terminals do not have a good connection.

Good tool to have? Absolutely
Necessary? Nope

 

Ok Ok So I tend to over think things. I picked up a couple of 4 fuse fuse blocks and this weekend will run a 4 gague + to them and then on the accessories from there. This will not only fix the problem but also consolidate all of thoes fuses from all over to one sopt. Thanks to all for the ideas, and help.

 

Good tool to have? Absolutely Necessary? Absolutely
- Not this particular job. But installing, taking care of maxima: Absolutely Necessary when "Powering aftermarket accessories sort of long".

I Woke up in the middle of the night. Smbdy said to me (not you): "the hood sentence was not proper" (as u indicated). Now its New morning, and heres my apology to CyMax - about how I formed the 'buy dmm' -sentence. Sorry.

Maxima DIY dmm: Good tool to have? Absolutely Necessary? Absolutely. I dont understand how 10$ investment is too steep? My tools cost minimum 3k$, each and every of them has earned its price x20. The 10$ dmm has saved me minimum 5000$ pure taxfree cash, how can smbdy refuse such exchange?

 

The thick wire setting in my car (pic above) is not proper. Fusible link or the fuse block youre installing is safer.( Also the other cable terminal pic above needs good shield if installed) Pls keep in mind that the lights are behind separate fuses, simple design, foolproof.

What I did, is thick doubleshielded rubber wiring, extra good insulation, and wrapped it tight that it will never move. It will be dangerous if smtg drastic happens in sense that the batt will explode...

Having said that, I have once lost all lights on a icy curvy road 50mph, blk night. Vauxhall. I will not never ever trust LUCAS fusing. There was no way to brake b/c of the icy road, no way to see as I was blinded. Just wait, roll on and try to remeber how the curves were... This time -again- I was 'more than lucky*1', and so I can here tell my story.

Btw. *1 Only alive via busy angels work.

 

nevermind, it is too much of a headache to have a conversation with you.

 

Not too bright to hijack conversation with CyMax. Enough for u to figure out an answer for u own dmm problem...

 

Shawn, he is right... a DMM is an absolute must for any tool box.

and you simply have to turn your brain on when you're talking with him and it's easy to understand what he's saying. just cause he doesn't talk in ebonics like half the people here doesn't mean he's not speaking truth..

he and I disagree on many things, but he's 100% correct here.

 

No need to agree. Always. No need to be right. Its just the goal. That is called Freedom. Real free individuals are free to honor disagreeing humans, be they whatever. One may weight his/her Freedom by assessing the person in mirror; he/she just might be wrong.

What this has to do with max driving? Freedom to select: drive with dmm in the trunk, or just cellphone to call tow company.

 

Except for the simple fact that people need to read what I say before they argue.

It's like if I were to say I need new tires, and I know this because I can see the cords. Then someone tells me I absolutely have to go out and buy a tread depth gauge to tell me if I need new tires.

 

Shawn, you're still talking about this particular instance... Wiking and I are talking about "do you need one in your toolbox for _______________?" the answer is a huge YES there.
sometimes you have to read between the lines when you're talking to myself or Wiking- although my english is generally easier to understand.

 

Can't we all just get along??

 

Yes we can. You with dmm, Me with lol, Others with aspirin.

 

I prefer nuprin. Small yellow diffrent

 

Aspirin is readily available here in Scandinavia. Nuprin like maxima spares

 

excedrin.
for the headaches I get from this board.

just my .02 don't mess with anything electrical unless you have a meter or at the very least a test light (same cost)

 

Ok now for the Million dollar Question. I went to pick a DMM today at work and we have them from 19.00 all the way up to 50 some dollars!! What are the features most needed, and / or desired. I'm sure some of the stuff on the 50 some one are superfluous. Gotta be right??

 

I just got a basic one.

 

hehehhhe.... I was waiting for this


if you are just going to check voltages/resistance and just do basic stuff then just pick up a cheapy one.


Also know that a $50 one is still a cheapy one

if you can swing it, I've used this one before and it is rather nice
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...%5Fid=22%2D810

This is all you need:



$19.99 at radio shack.

I have one of these, its a great unit.

Not to be rude or anything, but if you need to ask what features are most needed, then you probably don't know enough about electrical circuits to need a multimeter.

 

Not rude at all, I admit I'm pretty new to electronics. I understand the theory, but applying it is the crux of the situation. I borrowed an automotive electroincs textboox from a mechanic friend of mine. Chapter2 so far,,,, to tell the truth I think having the DMM on hand would greatly speed my learning curve.

Tho still the Q goes largely unanwsered.

 

What question?

What features you need?

Basically something to measure voltage, current, and resistance. Just about all of them on the market do that though.

What you pay for is range, the ability to measure really large and really small measurements.

The more expensive ones have more features like temp, through wire sampling, and memory. But unless you have a specific purpose, you probably don't need all that.

 

Perfect awnser, thank you. I was wondering exactly what you stated. I guess in other words weather for a novice it would be worth spending the $$.

 

Probably not, if you were a novice and wanted to go bling on a meter, buy a laser temp sensor or an oscilloscope.

 

a temp sensor and 'scope aren't going to help this guy for sheit.

 

did you know that that 560 dollar multimeter read 12v and so did my 14 dollar one

 

Dont want bling for a DMM just one that has what I will need.

 

When I go downhill, I'll buy the 8€ multimeter from local discount store, supermarket... That u may sit on, crackit or donate to u neighbor and not too many tears shed. Although thats not the most important feature, it IS important.

The issue is to have -in the ol max- always available basic voltage, ohm quantifying capability. Accuracy and features come into pic as needs grow with skill. I have not never really utilized my 4-channel 100Mhz Panasonic features on my MAX...

From professional point of view I'd snub these cheap slave labor worm boxes [ONLY Fluke is good enough], but as said, theyre accurate enough in car electronics: Buy two of these and their difference is below 0.1Volts.

Theres no end in sight of 'necessary' must have gauge -investments: however if one dreams of opening the MAX hood for other than plug swap THEN the basic dmm is must. Starting point in any electron related troubleshooting is knowing u charge voltage: with wet fingers or lamp, that measurement not accurate enough.


What are the features:

When I do not put price first, I'll buy a dmm features in this order:
- Autorange.
- DIY fabricate (or buy) flexible, nohassle, silicone test probe leads.
- Set of attachment clips, *****, snap into connectors, to tested wires.
- Beep for quick conductance measurement is nice.
- High End: Memory etc feature$ do come after buying new toolbox...

I've found very handy this tiny, handheld gauge with a pin in the end [=making the actual measurement while hanging there from left leg]. That de-vice cracked when one unnamed stupido closed his toolbox...