To those who have done the 5-speed swap...
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To those who have done the 5-speed swap...
Apparently some of u guys includin' myself who have done this swap and bein' successful on it have also thought of how to make ur reverse lights and cruise control work. of course we all know how to get the reverse lights to work at least some of us got the help from others that is Phatsta who actually gave a run down on how to do it with minor cutting and connecting here and there. of course another member which is Fugi43 if not mistaken has also tried to explain and help us out on it but i guess he's been too caught up with things. thanks to Daniel i made my reverse lights finally work but i also thought about the cruise control. i know Twinkle told me that his cruise control still worked right after he did is 5-speed conversion but i never thought of askin' him how he did his wiring??? long story short i found a way to make both reverse lights and cruise control work again. but before i tell u guys about i need to know if anyone is interested on what and how i did it before i make a fool of myself and type all this for nothing when one of the members on here already figured it out and i wasn't aware of it or missed a few thousand posts about this. so let me know guys. who knows this could be the final piece of the puzzle of the famous 5-speed swap.
Rick
Rick
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ok im gonna cut and paste info. and possibly pics from Daniels page to provide the necessary info. that u guys need to make ur reverse lights and cruise control work. here goes:
Electronics
What you need to rewire is the following;
Position Sensor (PS)
Reverse lights
Cruise Control POSSIBLY (haven't figured that one out yet) (I already did!!!)
The PS is what tells the A/T control unit what gear is in when you've got the auto trans. If you have anything else than neutral or park in then the car won't start. When N or P is in the PS 'shorts' and sends the OK signal back to the A/T ctrl unit which in it's turn tells the ECU that it's good to go. As far as I've heard there's two ways of doing this rewire. The easy way or the factory way. I did it the easy way and I know nothing about the other so I won't even try writing about it.
OK so the F21 (auto trans harness) has 4 connectors with a total of 19 cables, while the F20 (manual trans harness) only has 1 connector with a total of 4 cables. Needless to say you need to find the necessary cables and leave the rest which is for solenoids and other stuff inside the auto trans. This is the layout, and you need to use the two connectors marked in the picture.

Easiest is to just cut away the connectors on these two, they wont fit anywhere so it doesn't matter.
PS: Short the brown cable and the green/black cable from the smallest connector (connector marked as 1). Leave the green cable alone, unused. Be sure to isolate it though. That was the PS, now your car will start. (Should look like this

The reverse lights comes out of connector marked as 2. The cables you need to rewire are the red and the thick green one (there are two green, one is thicker than the other). Isolate the others and leave them be for now. The red cable should be wired to the blue/red cable on the manual transmission side, and the green cable should be connected to the blue cable on the transmission side. Again, leave the other cables for now, but be sure to isolate them. Like so:
Engine side / Transmission side


this is just to make the reverse lights work thanks to Daniel a.k.a. Phatsta. now i will go and correct some of his info so that the cruise control also works for u guys.
Electronics
What you need to rewire is the following;
Position Sensor (PS)
Reverse lights
Cruise Control POSSIBLY (haven't figured that one out yet) (I already did!!!)
The PS is what tells the A/T control unit what gear is in when you've got the auto trans. If you have anything else than neutral or park in then the car won't start. When N or P is in the PS 'shorts' and sends the OK signal back to the A/T ctrl unit which in it's turn tells the ECU that it's good to go. As far as I've heard there's two ways of doing this rewire. The easy way or the factory way. I did it the easy way and I know nothing about the other so I won't even try writing about it.
OK so the F21 (auto trans harness) has 4 connectors with a total of 19 cables, while the F20 (manual trans harness) only has 1 connector with a total of 4 cables. Needless to say you need to find the necessary cables and leave the rest which is for solenoids and other stuff inside the auto trans. This is the layout, and you need to use the two connectors marked in the picture.

Easiest is to just cut away the connectors on these two, they wont fit anywhere so it doesn't matter.
PS: Short the brown cable and the green/black cable from the smallest connector (connector marked as 1). Leave the green cable alone, unused. Be sure to isolate it though. That was the PS, now your car will start. (Should look like this

The reverse lights comes out of connector marked as 2. The cables you need to rewire are the red and the thick green one (there are two green, one is thicker than the other). Isolate the others and leave them be for now. The red cable should be wired to the blue/red cable on the manual transmission side, and the green cable should be connected to the blue cable on the transmission side. Again, leave the other cables for now, but be sure to isolate them. Like so:
Engine side / Transmission side


this is just to make the reverse lights work thanks to Daniel a.k.a. Phatsta. now i will go and correct some of his info so that the cruise control also works for u guys.
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all of the wires that Phatsta said that u need to do the rewirin' r the correct wires. best thing to do is cut off all of the excess wires and harness from the F21 harness (auto tranny) and get some electrical tape and wire loom to cover all the wiring. what u will need is the F20 harness (5-speed tranny) from the donor car which u need to cut and leave enough wire on the harness itself. now what u need to do is get the 4 wires that Phatsta stated and ur gonna cut and splice those wires from the F21 harness and reconnect them onto the F20 harness.
for the Position Sensor Phatsta stated that u need to short the brown cable and the green/black cable from the smallest connector and leave the green cable alone, unused. Be sure to isolate it though. That was the PS, now your car will start. the brown cable and green/black wires can be reconnected to the same color wires on the F20 harness. do not worry about the other green wire cuz u do not need it at all.
for the reverse lights Phatsta also stated that the reverse lights comes out of connector marked as 2. The cables you need to rewire are the red and the thick green one (there are two green, one is thicker than the other). Isolate the others and leave them be for now. The red cable should be wired to the blue/red cable on the manual transmission side, and the green cable should be connected to the blue cable on the transmission side. Again, leave the other cables for now, but be sure to isolate them.
again the wires that he stated or also correct but the red wire is actually red/black if i remember correctly but i do think its the only red wire in the connector that he specified. get those 2 wires and reconnect them to the other 2 wires in the F20 harness in which Phatsta said. now ur left with only a total of 4 wires that were reconnected to an F20 harness and not have a mess of wires and unused harnesses under ur hood being visible to the naked eye. some members on here actually went through the trouble of actually swappin' out the complete harness which consumed more time and patience just to get the reverse lights and cruise control to work. after what i just typed on here with Phatsta's info. should only take a mere 5-20 min. job. i will post pics of the final product. but if any of u guys need me to clarify a few things don't hesistate to do so. im doin' this help out those that actually need it and i know that in some states when it comes to inspection the damn reverse lights don't work.
p.s. i haven't forgetten' on how to make ur cruise control work. well to make it work; that part has already been done. once the 4 wires r reconnected to the F20 harness and plugged back into the 5-speed tranny ur cruise control should already work which means take the car out for a drive and test to c if it actually works; i know mine did right after i did the rewirin' this past Sun. good luck guys and let me know what happens and if u need help in some areas. i guess now this should conclude the 5-speed write-up and rewirin' of things.
Ricky
for the Position Sensor Phatsta stated that u need to short the brown cable and the green/black cable from the smallest connector and leave the green cable alone, unused. Be sure to isolate it though. That was the PS, now your car will start. the brown cable and green/black wires can be reconnected to the same color wires on the F20 harness. do not worry about the other green wire cuz u do not need it at all.
for the reverse lights Phatsta also stated that the reverse lights comes out of connector marked as 2. The cables you need to rewire are the red and the thick green one (there are two green, one is thicker than the other). Isolate the others and leave them be for now. The red cable should be wired to the blue/red cable on the manual transmission side, and the green cable should be connected to the blue cable on the transmission side. Again, leave the other cables for now, but be sure to isolate them.
again the wires that he stated or also correct but the red wire is actually red/black if i remember correctly but i do think its the only red wire in the connector that he specified. get those 2 wires and reconnect them to the other 2 wires in the F20 harness in which Phatsta said. now ur left with only a total of 4 wires that were reconnected to an F20 harness and not have a mess of wires and unused harnesses under ur hood being visible to the naked eye. some members on here actually went through the trouble of actually swappin' out the complete harness which consumed more time and patience just to get the reverse lights and cruise control to work. after what i just typed on here with Phatsta's info. should only take a mere 5-20 min. job. i will post pics of the final product. but if any of u guys need me to clarify a few things don't hesistate to do so. im doin' this help out those that actually need it and i know that in some states when it comes to inspection the damn reverse lights don't work.
p.s. i haven't forgetten' on how to make ur cruise control work. well to make it work; that part has already been done. once the 4 wires r reconnected to the F20 harness and plugged back into the 5-speed tranny ur cruise control should already work which means take the car out for a drive and test to c if it actually works; i know mine did right after i did the rewirin' this past Sun. good luck guys and let me know what happens and if u need help in some areas. i guess now this should conclude the 5-speed write-up and rewirin' of things.
Ricky
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Originally Posted by Alex_V
Awsome, cant wait to get to the point to wire it!
Also on my parts car, I still have the engine harness on it, but I sold the part that goes from the fire wall to the 2 fuse boxes. Did I sell something I needed?
~Alex
Also on my parts car, I still have the engine harness on it, but I sold the part that goes from the fire wall to the 2 fuse boxes. Did I sell something I needed?
~Alex
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you dont even need the harness, just a plug to connect them too!
the whole wiring consisted of twisting and soldering the brown and green/black wires, then 2 more wires on the tranny connector/F20 connector. Seriously its like 5-10minuets. Then snip off the connectors.
I have reverse lights but the max hasnt done over 15mph since it was converted (not my daily driver yet) so donno about the cruise.
~Alex
the whole wiring consisted of twisting and soldering the brown and green/black wires, then 2 more wires on the tranny connector/F20 connector. Seriously its like 5-10minuets. Then snip off the connectors.
I have reverse lights but the max hasnt done over 15mph since it was converted (not my daily driver yet) so donno about the cruise.
~Alex
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Originally Posted by Alex_V
you dont even need the harness, just a plug to connect them too!
the whole wiring consisted of twisting and soldering the brown and green/black wires, then 2 more wires on the tranny connector/F20 connector. Seriously its like 5-10minuets. Then snip off the connectors.
I have reverse lights but the max hasnt done over 15mph since it was converted (not my daily driver yet) so donno about the cruise.
~Alex
the whole wiring consisted of twisting and soldering the brown and green/black wires, then 2 more wires on the tranny connector/F20 connector. Seriously its like 5-10minuets. Then snip off the connectors.
I have reverse lights but the max hasnt done over 15mph since it was converted (not my daily driver yet) so donno about the cruise.
~Alex
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This is the F20 harness that i got off the donor car and adapted it to my car.

Now if u look closely u'll notice the 4 wires that come on the F20 harness which will make ur reverse lights and cruise control work at the same time it will let ur car start as well.

This is the finished product after i cut off all the other harness's from my car and turned out to look like a regular 5-speed even though u can tell by lookin' at the bulky area in the wire loom which is just the spare wires that r not needed.

In this pic u'll c all of the other harness's that i cut off. the 1st one to the left is the F20 harness comin' out of the tranny <--- u don't need it, but i just got it incase. the 2nd harness to the left is the F21 harness comin' from the engine side <--- this is the one u cut off since it only has 3 wires; after that is cut u then adapt the F20 harness to the 4 individual wires that Phatsta mentioned. Now the last harness's r the ones that r not needed at all but one of them u will need to use 2 wires from since those 2 wires r the ones for ur reverse lights.

I will post more pics of this cuz my digi cam's batteries just died so i still have to upload more pics.

Now if u look closely u'll notice the 4 wires that come on the F20 harness which will make ur reverse lights and cruise control work at the same time it will let ur car start as well.

This is the finished product after i cut off all the other harness's from my car and turned out to look like a regular 5-speed even though u can tell by lookin' at the bulky area in the wire loom which is just the spare wires that r not needed.

In this pic u'll c all of the other harness's that i cut off. the 1st one to the left is the F20 harness comin' out of the tranny <--- u don't need it, but i just got it incase. the 2nd harness to the left is the F21 harness comin' from the engine side <--- this is the one u cut off since it only has 3 wires; after that is cut u then adapt the F20 harness to the 4 individual wires that Phatsta mentioned. Now the last harness's r the ones that r not needed at all but one of them u will need to use 2 wires from since those 2 wires r the ones for ur reverse lights.

I will post more pics of this cuz my digi cam's batteries just died so i still have to upload more pics.
i tried to wire the auto harness to thinking its in neutral, but somehow now i can start my car once and then when i try to start it again everything dies out. Has anyone else had this problem??? I have a VE
Sorry this is another off topic question, but I'm only doing this so I can get 10 posts and make my own thread, but in my 90 maxima i see a button for the auto t/m it says P for power if you push it all the way up, C for comfort if you put it all the way down but if you leave it in the middle it stays on auto. which one should i leave it on? personally the feel of auto is nicer then comfort i think but i remember someone saying comfort... may sound dumb but whatever haha
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next time look for your own thread. The power mode shifts at later rpm, comfort shifts sooner. Auto is comfort mode under normal driving, and when you get to WOT (wide open throttle) it automaticly goes to power mode. So leave it where you want, doesnt really matter
BMXR- did you try to do it your own way because theres a trillion ways to wire ( or screw up) wiring on any car. Do it exactly like GRNDMX has and try that.
GRNDMX- My reverse lights work so im assuming my cruise will too right? Man I cant wait to get cruise back!!
~Alex
BMXR- did you try to do it your own way because theres a trillion ways to wire ( or screw up) wiring on any car. Do it exactly like GRNDMX has and try that.
GRNDMX- My reverse lights work so im assuming my cruise will too right? Man I cant wait to get cruise back!!
~Alex
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Originally Posted by Alex_V
next time look for your own thread. The power mode shifts at later rpm, comfort shifts sooner. Auto is comfort mode under normal driving, and when you get to WOT (wide open throttle) it automaticly goes to power mode. So leave it where you want, doesnt really matter
BMXR- did you try to do it your own way because theres a trillion ways to wire ( or screw up) wiring on any car. Do it exactly like GRNDMX has and try that.
GRNDMX- My reverse lights work so im assuming my cruise will too right? Man I cant wait to get cruise back!!
~Alex
BMXR- did you try to do it your own way because theres a trillion ways to wire ( or screw up) wiring on any car. Do it exactly like GRNDMX has and try that.
GRNDMX- My reverse lights work so im assuming my cruise will too right? Man I cant wait to get cruise back!!
~Alex
Just a note about Cruise control on 5 speeds....not only is there an off switch on the brake pedal, as with automatics, there is one on the clutch pedal as well...it is at the TOP of the pedal, so it is pressed ON when the pedal is UP, and it is released and OFF when the pedal is pressed.
This switch is important so that if you shift with cruise on, that your can doesn't try to redline while trying to maintain speed in neutral.
This switch is important so that if you shift with cruise on, that your can doesn't try to redline while trying to maintain speed in neutral.
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Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Just a note about Cruise control on 5 speeds....not only is there an off switch on the brake pedal, as with automatics, there is one on the clutch pedal as well...it is at the TOP of the pedal, so it is pressed ON when the pedal is UP, and it is released and OFF when the pedal is pressed.
This switch is important so that if you shift with cruise on, that your can doesn't try to redline while trying to maintain speed in neutral.
This switch is important so that if you shift with cruise on, that your can doesn't try to redline while trying to maintain speed in neutral.
Originally Posted by twinkle
the cruise control system also watches RPM, i never wired up the switch and it will still shut off when i hit the clutch, it only goes up like 200 rpm max before cutting off.
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Just a note about Cruise control on 5 speeds....not only is there an off switch on the brake pedal, as with automatics, there is one on the clutch pedal as well...it is at the TOP of the pedal, so it is pressed ON when the pedal is UP, and it is released and OFF when the pedal is pressed.
This switch is important so that if you shift with cruise on, that your can doesn't try to redline while trying to maintain speed in neutral.
This switch is important so that if you shift with cruise on, that your can doesn't try to redline while trying to maintain speed in neutral.
Hopefully this will help...
As you'll have noticed. There are many ways to get to the same ends. But the last peice about the ASCD is very simple. Just cut the negative side wire on the ASCD cancel switch on the brake pedal. After you cut it and now have two ends, take the end exiting the switch and run it into the positive side of the ASCD cancel switch on the cluch pedal. Then you run the wire exiting the new switch to the other half of the wire you initially cut. This is the one that makes its way to the ASCD controller to disengage and eventually a ground. You are just adding another switch into the loop. And the only wiring you have to do is right behind the pedals. It takes two minutes. Then you'll have brake and clutch cancel switches. Here's a simple diagram...
..............Battery + --------> v
........................................ v
........................................ v
ASCD Brake Cancel + <--------
..........................- >---------/......../--------------> ASCD Controler -
............................................v..... ..^
............................................v..... ..^
............................................v..... ..^
ASCD Clutch Cancel + <---------<......^
.................................................. ...^
............................- >----------------
...................... = nothing
>-------------> = wire
^/v = up/down
P.S., if this wiring diagram makes absolutely no sense let me know. I'll try to come up w/something better.
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Originally Posted by fugi43
I'm sorry I haven't been around to help with any of this write up. Besides, I don't have a digi so it would be really hard to describe a lot of the process without it. Also, I've graduated, moved and taken several different jobs. Honestly, I haven't done anything to the ride over the last year until very recently.
Hopefully this will help...
As you'll have noticed. There are many ways to get to the same ends. But the last peice about the ASCD is very simple. Just cut the negative side wire on the ASCD cancel switch on the brake pedal. After you cut it and now have two ends, take the end exiting the switch and run it into the positive side of the ASCD cancel switch on the cluch pedal. Then you run the wire exiting the new switch to the other half of the wire you initially cut. This is the one that makes its way to the ASCD controller to disengage and eventually a ground. You are just adding another switch into the loop. And the only wiring you have to do is right behind the pedals. It takes two minutes. Then you'll have brake and clutch cancel switches. Here's a simple diagram...
..............Battery + --------> v
........................................ v
........................................ v
ASCD Brake Cancel + <--------
..........................- >---------/......../--------------> ASCD Controler -
............................................v..... ..^
............................................v..... ..^
............................................v..... ..^
ASCD Clutch Cancel + <---------<......^
.................................................. ...^
............................- >----------------
...................... = nothing
>-------------> = wire
^/v = up/down
P.S., if this wiring diagram makes absolutely no sense let me know. I'll try to come up w/something better.
Hopefully this will help...
As you'll have noticed. There are many ways to get to the same ends. But the last peice about the ASCD is very simple. Just cut the negative side wire on the ASCD cancel switch on the brake pedal. After you cut it and now have two ends, take the end exiting the switch and run it into the positive side of the ASCD cancel switch on the cluch pedal. Then you run the wire exiting the new switch to the other half of the wire you initially cut. This is the one that makes its way to the ASCD controller to disengage and eventually a ground. You are just adding another switch into the loop. And the only wiring you have to do is right behind the pedals. It takes two minutes. Then you'll have brake and clutch cancel switches. Here's a simple diagram...
..............Battery + --------> v
........................................ v
........................................ v
ASCD Brake Cancel + <--------
..........................- >---------/......../--------------> ASCD Controler -
............................................v..... ..^
............................................v..... ..^
............................................v..... ..^
ASCD Clutch Cancel + <---------<......^
.................................................. ...^
............................- >----------------
...................... = nothing
>-------------> = wire
^/v = up/down
P.S., if this wiring diagram makes absolutely no sense let me know. I'll try to come up w/something better.
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
welcome back buddy. i haven't really thought about doin' this at all but since u seem to have actually made a "complete" 5-speed swap i will look into this later on and manage to install this ASCD switch. now did u use the existing wires from the donor car or did u have to buy exta wiring and run them?
I also did pretty much the same thing on the clutch interlock switch. For that one you cut the light green wire w/red stripe ('chaser') on the back side of the SMJ (Super Multiple Junction). Its under the dash.
Since I have a working interlock switch I haven't worried about the neutral/safety switch or reverse lights. My car only starts with the clutch pedal depressed. On the other hand, yours starts only when in neutral. Either way avoids starting the car in gear. Having both is really overkill.
However, I do want reverse lights and I saved the connector from the 5-speed harness. I never connected it because I wanted to install it 'like factory' or by solder. Pretty soon I'm just gonna cap it with but connectors and heat shrink.
If you want more info on the wiring I can fax you copies of diagrams from the FSM. Or, I can just tell you what wire goes where. The thing that sucks is that Nissan changed colors on some wires between model years. So, 'this wire goes there' could be a little tricky. I'll message you more detailed stuff on my days off Tuesday & Wednesday. Let me know.
Lata,
Matt Fugina a.k.a fugi
P.S. If you feel like rewiring this you'll have the one and only "complete" 5spd swap. Good luck
P.S.S. Why don't I come down to Miami (or you come up to Orlando) one weekend. We could both get it finished once and for all... lata
nice to see your own name in there 
I always wondered how to solve that ASCD issue... well now I got my answer, thanks a lot! sadly I don't have a max to try it on but who knows, one of these days maybe I will
I'll try and find the time to update my cardomain site with your info some day GRNMAXDMON. hopefully this week!

I always wondered how to solve that ASCD issue... well now I got my answer, thanks a lot! sadly I don't have a max to try it on but who knows, one of these days maybe I will

I'll try and find the time to update my cardomain site with your info some day GRNMAXDMON. hopefully this week!
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Originally Posted by fugi43
When I snagged the clutch pedal assembly I hacked the two switches (ASCD cancel & clutch interlock) and left a foot+ of wire on each. It left me just enough to do the rewire.
I also did pretty much the same thing on the clutch interlock switch. For that one you cut the light green wire w/red stripe ('chaser') on the back side of the SMJ (Super Multiple Junction). Its under the dash.
Since I have a working interlock switch I haven't worried about the neutral/safety switch or reverse lights. My car only starts with the clutch pedal depressed. On the other hand, yours starts only when in neutral. Either way avoids starting the car in gear. Having both is really overkill.
However, I do want reverse lights and I saved the connector from the 5-speed harness. I never connected it because I wanted to install it 'like factory' or by solder. Pretty soon I'm just gonna cap it with but connectors and heat shrink.
If you want more info on the wiring I can fax you copies of diagrams from the FSM. Or, I can just tell you what wire goes where. The thing that sucks is that Nissan changed colors on some wires between model years. So, 'this wire goes there' could be a little tricky. I'll message you more detailed stuff on my days off Tuesday & Wednesday. Let me know.
Lata,
Matt Fugina a.k.a fugi
P.S. If you feel like rewiring this you'll have the one and only "complete" 5spd swap. Good luck
P.S.S. Why don't I come down to Miami (or you come up to Orlando) one weekend. We could both get it finished once and for all... lata
I also did pretty much the same thing on the clutch interlock switch. For that one you cut the light green wire w/red stripe ('chaser') on the back side of the SMJ (Super Multiple Junction). Its under the dash.
Since I have a working interlock switch I haven't worried about the neutral/safety switch or reverse lights. My car only starts with the clutch pedal depressed. On the other hand, yours starts only when in neutral. Either way avoids starting the car in gear. Having both is really overkill.
However, I do want reverse lights and I saved the connector from the 5-speed harness. I never connected it because I wanted to install it 'like factory' or by solder. Pretty soon I'm just gonna cap it with but connectors and heat shrink.
If you want more info on the wiring I can fax you copies of diagrams from the FSM. Or, I can just tell you what wire goes where. The thing that sucks is that Nissan changed colors on some wires between model years. So, 'this wire goes there' could be a little tricky. I'll message you more detailed stuff on my days off Tuesday & Wednesday. Let me know.
Lata,
Matt Fugina a.k.a fugi
P.S. If you feel like rewiring this you'll have the one and only "complete" 5spd swap. Good luck
P.S.S. Why don't I come down to Miami (or you come up to Orlando) one weekend. We could both get it finished once and for all... lata
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
nice to see your own name in there 
I always wondered how to solve that ASCD issue... well now I got my answer, thanks a lot! sadly I don't have a max to try it on but who knows, one of these days maybe I will
I'll try and find the time to update my cardomain site with your info some day GRNMAXDMON. hopefully this week!

I always wondered how to solve that ASCD issue... well now I got my answer, thanks a lot! sadly I don't have a max to try it on but who knows, one of these days maybe I will

I'll try and find the time to update my cardomain site with your info some day GRNMAXDMON. hopefully this week!
u know something i should actually think about doin' this to my page as well cuz this will be helpfull to those that need it incase they can't find it on other 3rd genner's page.
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
sweet deal. Matt, do what u can man cuz we have all come a long way to figure this crap out for the .org community in here. apparently i'd say u would have to come down here to Miami so that we can do the final touches to the "complete 5-speed swap".
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Originally Posted by fugi43
I'm down. I could do it Tuesday's and Wednesday's due to my ****ed up schedule. Next week would be good. I have friends in South Florida I want to visit also. So, let me know a good time for you & I'm on my way.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
this should be a sticky!!!
Hey guys, I know this is a rather old thread but I'm gonna be doing my 5speed swap pretty soon and would like to know if someone can post like a numbered list from parts to get off the donor car. thanks in advanced
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
Hey guys, I know this is a rather old thread but I'm gonna be doing my 5speed swap pretty soon and would like to know if someone can post like a numbered list from parts to get off the donor car. thanks in advanced
- descide what tranny you want (92-94 vlsd/ 89-91 std 5spd)
- flywheel with bolts(1)
- clutch / pressure plate(deside what your driving conditions will be before deciding) Go ACT (1)
- 5 speed tranny 4 prong plug connector (1)
- 5 speed tranny engine plate 2 piece plate (2)
- 5 speed tranny side engine to tranny bracket (2)
- shifter assembly w/rod and gear selector
- shifter mount dealer ($35) (1)
- clutch slave/master cylinder and clutch lines
- clutch pedal and brake pedal
- 5 speed tranny bolts lil bit longer than auto bolts
- front tranny mount w/rear tranny mount plate
- consider changing your rear main oil engine seal
Thanks a lot dude, I'm gonna be looking forward to getting these parts..so wait VE VLSD would be direct bolt on for GXE? by the way would you happen to know how much rebuild kit would cost since I need to get one too
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
Thanks a lot dude, I'm gonna be looking forward to getting these parts..so wait VE VLSD would be direct bolt on for GXE? by the way would you happen to know how much rebuild kit would cost since I need to get one too
as far as it goes the 92-94 vlsd is a direct bolt on with the side engine adapters from of the ve's engine
in regards to a rebuild kit it's for what? auto
manual
rebuilt kits for manual. I'm doing the swap but I'm having the tranny rebuilt before installing. Nothing like having that peace in mind you know..
so non VLSD tranny will never have power on 2 wheels?
so non VLSD tranny will never have power on 2 wheels?
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
rebuilt kits for manual. I'm doing the swap but I'm having the tranny rebuilt before installing. Nothing like having that peace in mind you know..
so non VLSD tranny will never have power on 2 wheels?
so non VLSD tranny will never have power on 2 wheels?
Reply with commits because im confuse. and if anyone with a factory standard trANNY MAKE note of this and get back to this thread i think that there is info being left out for the swap.
i will post pics of this bearing once i upload it to my domain page and also the aftermath of my 5speed tranny when my clutch pedal had hit the floor and sounded like a auto tranny self destructing.
Originally Posted by 2Legal4Me
okay Heres a quick but mostly list of the major parts
- descide what tranny you want (92-94 vlsd/ 89-91 std 5spd)
- flywheel with bolts(1)
- clutch / pressure plate(deside what your driving conditions will be before deciding) Go ACT (1)
- 5 speed tranny 4 prong plug connector (1)
- 5 speed tranny engine plate 2 piece plate (2)
- 5 speed tranny side engine to tranny bracket (2)
- shifter assembly w/rod and gear selector
- shifter mount dealer ($35) (1)
- clutch slave/master cylinder and clutch lines
- clutch pedal and brake pedal
- 5 speed tranny bolts lil bit longer than auto bolts
- front tranny mount w/rear tranny mount plate
- consider changing your rear main oil engine seal
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
5 speed= No tcu...



