So right now as far as performance goes i'm running a warpspeed 2.5inch mandrel bent Y pipe, cat, resonator, and a 2.5 crush bent rear section.
(as well as a simple maf adapter, K&N filter on the stock resonator)

I am moving on next to the 2000vi whenever i can source one.
Will an ECU upgrade (technosquare?) benefit my 97 since i can't get the raised rev limiter? I don't want a CEL so should i be getting an ECU or what else should i expect to need to hit the 200/200 mark?

 

Best thing to do is get a baseline (of your current mods) and go from there.

A/F tuning will play a major role as well.

 

I would get the baseline dyno, then install the 00VI with an SAFC-II. I'll assume you're 5 speed, and with all that added up, you could very well be near the 200 hp/200 tq without the ecu

 

I hit 205 tq and 194hp - dynojet numbers with the i/y/e and 00VI with AFC. Stock 98 ECU

 

i got 178 whp and 189 wtq with my auto with i/y/e and SAFC-II. With a 5 spd, i woulda been around 200 wtq and 190 ish whp

 

With what other mods? Just i/y/e or other minor stuff as well? What were numbers like prior to the AFC?

 

Easiest way to get a 00VI right now is to just get a DE-K. You can get a DE-k for $350 + ~$150 shipping on car-part.com. The DE-K has slightly more aggressive cams and lighter internals and therefore makes a few more ponies throughout the RPM range. An 00vi kit by itself is going for $450-$500. Might as well get the whole dam* motor. You could even cannabalize the 00vi stuff from the DE-K and then sell the motor for a couple hundred bones and come out ahead.

You won't have any hope of hitting 200whp/TQ without the 00vi, and the E-Manage, TS or JWT ECU. With the 00vi or DE-K and your bolt ons, you should be 185-190whp. After adjusting the A/F and advancing the snot out of the timing you can reach 200-210whp.

 

I've been planning on getting a whole DE-K anyway, but I'd forgotten about the slightly better internals, thanks for reminding me. Does the DE-K mate to the 4th gen ECU and everything fine? If not, I suppose transferring things over wouldn't be hard since it really is the same engine.

 

Some of the sensors are the same some aren't. I don't think there's a big difference between the 1999 ECU/sensors and the 2000's.

 

its not that easy to just put in the de-k. the 4th gen ecu won't work and there will be issues with hood clearance.

 

Some of the EVAP sensors are the same and the EGR is the same. The ECU's are NOTHING alike. 99ECU's are not much different from ours.

 

the 200whp thing is being done by everyone now....with bolt ons its cake

 

B.S., Barbara Streisand. The 4th gen ecu will work if you use the 4th gen sensors. Some of the sensors are the same. I know the cam and crank sensors are identical. You'll need an RPM switch to open the VI. There are ZERO issues with hood clearance. There's been a few people that have done this swap without any issues.

Next thing you'll tell me is that putting a 3.5 into a 4th gen is impossible.

 

From the FAQ
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=40

1999-Emissions equipment and ECU wiring similar to 5th gen models, SE limited edition available, security chip in key

 

yeah, first of all, no hood clearance issues, and SR-71 is right, if you use the sensors, only thing youll need is an rpm switch. BTW, if forgot that to put that I had the 00VI along with i/y/e. Thats how I got my numbers. I was 160 whp/165 wtq prior to dyno tuning

 

You went from 160whp to 178whp with just A/F tuning? How come your hp number is lower than your TQ number with the 00vi? If that's the case, I would say that your VIAS cup is broken or partially broken.

 

Hmm nice catch. But FAQ's are wrong. That needs to be changed.

 

Yep, kinda like this post in the MOD FAQ full of misinformation.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=42

 

Yeah, the '99 ECU, by my understanding, is essentially the same as the earlier 4th gen ECUs (it has to be) but with the NVIS security/chip system added. Some of the pins are different from a '95 ECU and certainly the emissions must have been improved but the 5th gen ECU is very different and has a completely different BCM for the new generation. So '99s kind of have it bad since we can't use a 4th gen ECU upgrade. At least there's the security chip, and the chip key looks much better than the lame '95-'98 key.

 

Well you can use the eariler ECU;s in a 99, you just need to swap some ecu pins.

 

Yah, that is loaded with BS. Neither the MEVI nor the DE-K has a true dual-runner design, and they make it sound like a pointless swap. Plus they act as if 32 HP is not worth anything. And everytime I see that graph I want a DE-K more...just look at how rough the 4th gen power curve is. The DE-K manifold is a huge improvement.

 

I don't wanna lose my Homelink®!!!!11111

j/k

 

Haha, you will have all that. But you will have some CEL's to take care of

 

Back when that was written, many org members(well still are) said things out of their ***. Everyone ASSUMED(you know what assume means ) that the 00vi would not fit because it was so tall. No one knew until Krismax took the risk and made it happen.

 

yeah, I was 160 whp 165 wtq prior to dyno tuning. I was running so rich with the 00vi that my a/f ratio dipped under 10 until we tuend it wtih the SAFC-II. And everything was working properly, thats just the numbers I ended up with. My VIAS was fine

 

Wrong and wrong again. We can get a ECU upgrade and I have a JWT ecu. Our keys are also crapier since the top part is all plastic and breaks very easily.
We do have better steering.

 

And that is it

 

1. The intake cam height is identical on the DE-K. It's just advanced a few degrees more than on the DE for better low-end. The added exhaust cam height takes care of the top-end breathing. These two changes combined with the 00VI make for a much more refined powerband.
2. The only major internal change to the DE-K other than the cam height on the exhaust cam was less clearance between the main journal and bearing. This did away with some noise and vibration, but it wasn't for power. The lighter internal thing is a myth. Btw, this info is per a Nissan SAE technical document.
There are 4G's with just the 00VI and bolt-ons that are approaching 200 WHP.

 

That's true; one of the two keys that came with my car when I bought it used was already broken at the top, but the other is fine and I like the appearance much better than the earlier keys.

I know you have a JWT ECU, but does your immobilizer work? If money is no object you can obviously buy a fancy aftermarket alarm, but I still would prefer not to lose the immobilizer. And I thought there were some other compatibility problems with a 95/96 ECU in a 99 but I can't remember any of them.

 

Yeah, I noticed that it seems to be totally independent, actually. I had my car garaged last winter with the battery out for over 3 months. Come spring, my Homelink still remembered my parents' garage door code. It must have some kind of flash ROM that it writes to as the digital odometer does.

 

Don't forget that the Cali Spec cars do NOT have EGR. For doing a DE-K swap you really need to get a 2k0 (Fed Spec) engine.

 

I am not sure if my immobilizer still works since i have never tried to start the car with anything other than the keys. No problems with the JWT ECU. I do have 3 CEL's but there are all EGR and EVAP related since my car is a 1999 Cali-spec using a 1996 ECU. You can only use a 1996 ECU if you would like JWT to reprogram it.

 

So with a Fed Spec DE-K engine you can pretty much just swap the sensors from the regular motor? So who has done the whole swap then? I'd rather go this way instead of the 00VI swap because I'd get a fresh motor out of the deal, plus I'd rather do a straight up engine swap instead of making custom parts and rewiring things.

What kind of custom fabbing would it take to do the whole swap then. Just the RPM switch? What about the injector harness?

 

It would be better to swap the old EGR setup if you dont have a 99. The 99F/C-00FED have the same EGR and most of the same EVAP.

 

I'm totally blanking...when did the Maxima switch to drive-by-wire: DE-K or VQ35? Does putting a DE-K in a 4th gen require a Pathfinder TB?

 

It started with the 3.5. No, it doesn't require a mallfinder TB.

 

So who's done the full DE-k swap then? I've done engine swaps before, but nothing custom or anything like that, I'm just wondering what all needs to be done above and beyond pulling the old motor, and dropping the new one in, and swapping the EGR (I have a '95)

EDIT: Oooops, this has been discussed in another thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=432158&page=1