I guess i didnt read into it enough but i installed a o reillys 5th gen clutch in my 4th gen. Anybody done this before and what is the outcome from it. is it going to work properly? i figured a aftermarket clutch would met the same specs as a oem so i didnt know.

 

uh ohh

What's it doing, or NOT doing?

 

im confused on the question as well.

 

Tons of people have 5th gen clutches in their 4th gen and they work perfectly fine, im not sure what you're asking either.

 

I'll take a stab--

He bought a cheaper version from O' Reily's auto parts, and it doesnt engage, or it's notchy

 

No, he's wondering if he still got the same performance that would be expected from upgrading from a 4G to a 5G clutch kit, regardless of brand. I have no idea, and as far as I know people who do the 5G clutch swap use OEM parts, never heard of anyone using a different brand.

 

tsk tsk... its not like $190 for the pressure plate, friction disk and tob is that much dough, hell I just spent more then that to replace the charcoal canister and VCV for my evap system! ($200)

 

my question is........is this clutch going to be alright. I know i should have bought oem but to late for that....the clutch feels real high on the pedal. I just wanted to know if its gonna burn up fast or if its gonna be alright. Not really intereted if its a performance upgrade or not. i just dont want to spend another 8 hours pulling the tranny and replacing the clutch.

 

My clutch only grabs at the top 1/2" right now.
I'm in the middle of trying to address this issue with clutch pedal adjustments, bleeding etc but still no success. I've made a thread about it where some people tried to tell me about adjusting the clutch, but it seems like not many people actually know how to do it properly (as it isn't helping, and later learning that what I've been adjusting per instructions from the forums etc is actually a freeplay adjustment, not a clutch pedal height or engagement adjustment.)

The pedal grabbing high may not have anything to do with it (my clutch still grabs strong, albeit only for 1/2", no shudder or slipping ever. It only has 82k on it, original 4th gen clutch.) Then again, it could. It wont wear faster unless you ride it or it is improperly adjusted so that there is no freeplay on the pedal (meaning it is preloaded and always partially engaged.)

I would look into adjusting the pedal height/engagement point (CORRECTLY, I wish I could help you on this one, but it still escapes me as well.)

 

I just went and bleed it again. there is NO air in the lines forsure. I havnt even tried to adjust it because i figured it didnt have adjustment. I figured you would just bleed it and that would adjust it. It only has 50 miles on it so i cant drive it hard to see if its slipping yet. I will let you know in 450 miles. I think thats the break in period. But one thing I notcied was the original 4th gen clutch had 6 springs as this one only has 4. I do not know if this matters. But The only reason i went with the 5th gen clutch is because everyone says it feels better. I do not like the feel of this clutch but I suppose thats what i get for saving a extra 100 bucks.

 

ITs probably the quality of the clutch than anything else.

 

Hey is the 5th Gen clutch also made by Valeo?

 

Clutch adjustment


1. Move drivers seat back all the way
2. grab a flash light, 12mm wrench, and a small pair of vice grips
2. get on your back and wedge your self under the dash looking up at the clutch pedal
3. Locate the rod coming through the fire wall from the clutch master cylinder. It connects to the clutch pedal.
4. Using the 12mm wrech loosen the nut on the end of the rod. With the nut loose the rod can be adjusted in and out of clutch master cylinder which in turn changes the clutch engagement point
5 Using the small vice grips turn the rod counter clockwise to lower the engagement point, or clockwise to raise the engagement point.


*Small adjustments make large changes in engagement point. Start with 1/2 turns or less of the rod. Drive the car and see how the clutch feels and readjust if necessary

*If raising engagement point, back out the cruise control activation switch as well. If lowering engagement point adjust cruise control activation switch in.

 

Thanks Mike I will try it tomorrow and i dont know what brand the clutch is.

 

Been there, done that, didn't move my engagement point. Two mechanics I have talked to, and looking at the haynes manual right now have called the adjustment you are referring to as the freeplay adjustment. I can confirm from doing this adjustment numerous times in the last week that it merely changes how close the pedal is to the engagement point (i.e. freeplay before there is pressure felt on the master cylinder.) Moving it clockwise could theoritically cause you to preload the master cylinder (and always be riding the clutch,) so you ideally want to have 1-3mm or so of freeplay on the pedal before you can feel pressure on the master cylinder.

The real question at hand is how can you adjust the clutch pedal such that the engagement point/area is lenghtened...

 

Put a thread in the general maxima discussions with some illustrations of what is going on with the pedal...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....83#post4550583

 

your doing something wrong then. That is exactly how you adjust your engagement point. I have done it many, many times.

Yes, adjusting it too much can cause the clutch to never fully engage the flywheel or to never fully release. That is why you make small adjustments.