The best 0-60miles (or 0-97kilometers) that I could do with my 5SPD AE (Anniversary Edition) is 8.4 seconds average(7.97 seconds being the best time). I purchased the AE because of the acceleration power. It is turning out that it does not have that much power. My 1988 Mazda 626 Turbo can do better time. Just a few days ago I test drove a 1999 SE (5SPD) and in the first try I got 7.59. I know I could do better time with this car because I made the tires spin a bit. I would appreciate it if any of you could give me your average times (and best times). In particular I'm looking for AE's.

 

Hasn't anyone clocked themselves?

 

Hey bramirez, you may be interested to know that I lowered my best time by 0.5 sec by doing manual shifts at 6000rpm (which actually makes it shift at redline). I'm still slower than you but I am an auto. Being in a manual, how the heck do you have a hand free to time yourself?

What kind of mileage do you have?

Most people here do not believe fiddling with a stopwatch means much anyway. They will tell you to take it to the track or to get it dyno'd if you're concerned about your performance.

There's also the pride issue. Our seemingly defective maximas are a bit of an embarrassment and I think we should be a little more sensitive to the other folk on this board who have the luxury of shooting exhaust fumes on the front end of most cars who dare to challenge them. Meanwhile, we can keep running with the Hyundai's and try to figure out what's going on with our rides.

 

Mine (5 Speed) feels PLENTY quick. Sorry I haven’t timed it, but I’m confident it can easily hit the 6.7 mark.

It seems like the launch is really essential in this car. Mine bogs pretty easily in first and second, but when I hit it just right, she flies.

 

6.8 seconds 0-60
15.2 1/4 mile

both were on a stopwatch.

 

Hey BlackAE, can you please tell me how exactly you do the manual on an auto? I would like to try it.

Thanx

 

That 6.7 sec time is Motor Trend's time with a 5-speed on a 2000 SE. With 5 extra hp, we should be able to do better than that. I might go to the track this weekend and try it out. (not with a stopwatch though!!)

 

I'd specially be interested in your time if your going to the track. Keep me posted.

 

Shift with right hand and hold steering wheel and stop watch with left. I know this method is not that accurate. But I've tried this over and over with the same results on my AE. Using the same method I try other MAX's and get better time. If this is still not enough, I've raced a 2000 SE 5 Spd and got smoked (if your thinking the drivers are the main factor, well, the 2000 SE driver drove my car and got the same time as I have been getting). Where I'm trying to go with all this is to Nissan Canada. I payed full price for the power. At 8.4 I would have gone for a Civic Si (Cheaper and also nice)

Mileage: 11,500km

 

start in "1", soon as tachometer hits 6000 gently push shifter up to "2". Don't take it to redline then shift or you'll rev too high.

 

I just hope a deer doesn't jump out at you or something. I agree with your method though. I am getting fairly consistant results too, thus any change would be noticeable. The actual numbers may not be accurate but tested often enough under the same conditions our technique offers some insight into the actual performance of our vehicles. The only problem is that what we're doing holds no sway with the court of Nissan. A dyno chart would be far more telling than anything else but I'm not sure if Nissan would even care to recognize that. My appointment with Nissan is Friday. I'll try to post what happens. I'm still hoping that my poor performance is simply a matter of altitude (3440 feet), inferior superstore gasoline and low mileage (3800km) but the numbers are so low (and so close to a vastly inferior car that I personally tested and raced against) that I still feel that something isn't functioning the way it should be.

 

the 5 extra hp claimed on AE's is no more than an advertising claim...this equates to (doing the math.......................................) 0hp on a dyno...thats right, 0!!! according to nissan, the ae is actually a little slower 0-60 (6.9) but it all depends on the driver and conditions

many people are pulling very low 6's bone stock (6.2 etc.) on 5spd's...try getting a gtech performance meter to measure your times just so you can be much more accurate...

go to your dealership and tell them your car is messed up...if they say it is normal, tell them that you want to take a test drive of a 5spd ae max (new or used) that they have on the lot...first drive them in yours to test your time (gtech would be much easier so neither person will think the other is cheating) and then drive the other ae...if that is not enough, tell them that you want to take both out at the same time and race them next to each other

many people that aren't the most skillful of drivers will pull mid 7s 0-60 but you shouldn't be pulling 8s...what rpms are you shifting at? when you start, don't drop the clutch, but pull it out semi-slowly (a little quicker than normal) so as not to get too much tire spin...then just floor it and shift at redline (don't let it bounce off the rev limiter)...i have a feeling it might be semi-contributed to your driving (nothing personal meant by that comment)...a 4th gen 5spd has also been known to run mid-high 6's 0-60

if you know someone with a 2000 max se, race them (you in your car and them in their car) and then switch cars (they will drive your car and you will drive theirs)...then you can see if it is driver error or the cars fault

 

and ur car is.. an auto??

 

man...not to hurt your spirit or anything, but that extra 5 hps mean practically insignificant when timing 0-60. an extra 10 or 20 maybe significant but still. the torque spec on an AE and a non-AE cars are very similar and that 5 extra hp on the top-end is fairly insignificant. now on the other hand, the AEs should have edge over non-AE models due to the Limited-slip differencial. the LSD should help getting better 0-60 than the 5 extra hps.

 

how much did you pay for your braking system? can you tell me the prices of each item seperately please...thanks...i'm probably getting new brakes soon (don't want to get more stock rotors and just warp them again)

 

I agree with Adboy. I have an auto and haven't been to the track but I did a 7.5 second run the first time with ease using my watch.

 

Please forgive my ignorance. What does an LSD do? How does it affect performance?

 

limited slip differential - it essentially transfers power from spinning wheel to non-spinning wheel thereby providing better traction off the line.

I'd try to have someone else in the car to time you - you'll be a bit slower but it'll be easier to concentrate on your launch.

But, if you are getting off the line very quickly, shifting at red-line, shifting crisply and finishing your run in second gear - and still turn 8s - then you might have a problem. Go find a dyno and run your car (it is worth the $ just to have the info) - you should pull around 190 to the wheels. If you do, it is your driving. If you pull less, there's a problem.

 

Thanks for the advice. I now know what a Gtech is and am looking forward to getting one. I read some reviews. These things are pretty accurate. No offense taken with your 'driver error' comment. If I were in your shows (and getting 0-60 in the 6s), driver error would cross my mind as well. I have raced a 2000 SE 5 Spd. I got smoked. The 2000 SE driver tried my car and saw the lack of power. He did over 9s 0-60 in my car. I know there is a problem with the performance of my car but Nissan is not being cooperative in helping me resolve this issue. At the moment I am trying to deal with Nissan Canada (terrible service!!) I need more people to post their times. It may strengthen my case with Nissan if I show them what other people are getting.

 

I hear what you're saying. I am finishing my run in second gear. I make the change between 55 and 60 km/h. If it is true that I am not shifting properly I should lose a few fractions in the second (there is not much time to lose in one change). If the care was performing as previous models have (lets not forget the added 37 hp to the AE and the limited slip differential) I should be in the 7s.

 

It seems to me that the only way we'll be able to detirmine if there is a problem is get our cars dyno tested for an accurate HP rating. I'd be willing to pay the money to have mine done, but I don't of anyplace that can do it around the Cincinnati, Ohio area. If anybody does know who can this let me know and I'll have the test done. If the results showed that the car was around 200 hp(which is how it feels to me) we could take the results to a Nissan dealer and they would have to pay attention. A 200 HP rating would be a litigatable problem falling under false & deceptive advertising.

 

If you are talking about acceleration, all you should be concerned about is beating the guy beside you and the light or at the track. 0-60 will vary so much depending on street, weather, and driver. You can tell everyone 6.7. Just be ready to back it up against a TL, BMW , etc...

 

It matters when you've been beaten by a 2000 SE. It smoked me!! BTW, (in case you are thinking it's the driver) the 2000 SE driver tried my car and felt the lack of power. His time in my car: over 9s 0-60

 

Test your car and post your 0-60 time. When you get the change also post your dyno results. Check out a Gtech performance metter. Everyone who is in to performance mods should have one!

http://www.gtechpro.com

 

Attached is a dyno of three different 2k maximas - all 5spds done at the same time. the two higher ones were identical fed spec stock cars. the lower was a modified cali spec.

These numbers are right at what they should be. You will not see 200 hp on a stock dyno because it measures hp to the wheels not at the crank. The figure from Nissan is crank hp. On a 5spd you get 15% driveline loss so: 85% = about 190. Higher loss on an auto.

200 at the crank is what you'd get with intake and Ypipe.

To find a dyno place just look in the phone book for auto performance places. Look for those that specialize in imports (usually will be fwd) and give them a call. I'm sure there are plenty of places in cin.

Sorry - couldn't get the dynos to attach.

 

Last question - are you shifting at redline in 1st. If so, I think we'll all give driver error a rest!!!

 

Absolutely!! Red line shift.

BTW, just want to share this one. I just got a GTech and tested on my first car (1988 Mazda 626 turbo). Average time (0-60): 7.65. Best time: 7.55. This gadget really works!! Road & Track posted the 626's 0-60 time at 7.6. I will post my results when I try the GTech on my AE (currently having rear bumper painted -scratched by a bike-)

 

I'm sure some of you will get tired of hearing me talk about this, but if you have run your car in the 1/4mile and have a time slip, you can calculate your 0-60mph time from it fairly easily. Check out my post in the following thread for a step by step procedure. Email me with your timeslip info if you can't figure it out or are too lazy to try it. I'll be more than glad to do the calculations for any/all of you.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=41788